1953 farmall Super A oil

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Is there any friction modifiers or anti-wear agents in non-detergent oil?Dads old Farmall requires a non-detergent oil. I ran high detergent 30 weight in it for a few years,then went back to non-detergent oil when I learned it was the specified lube.
It only sees action in the spring time now,about 5 hours of run time. Change the oil every year.
Super A picture(not mine)
Mark

[ January 05, 2003, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
ND oils have some measure of AW or FM's. An SB oil has some anti-foam but that is it.

Can't imagine any IC engine not requiring some additives, such as SD/SE type oil.

[ September 04, 2003, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
Neil,
Thanks for the kind words! My brother and I share this tractor since my dad passed away and left it our care.I will do WHATEVER is necessary to maintain it in its proper form. I've learned that since it has an oil filter, that it's OK to use detergent oil in it. I'm either going to Auto-Rx or Neutra Purge the oil then give it modern lube. ANY helpful seggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Mark
 
Pablo,
Thats a good question.I don't have a clue yet,still doing a little research.
SAE30
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10W-30
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10W-40
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Mark
 
Rugerman, I don't think you could go wrong with 30wt or 10-30. My Dad has 2 John Deere A's, a 1937 and a 1949. He uses them mainly for antique tractor pulls.
He rebuilt the motor on the 1949, pulling cam and all that stuff and cost over $2,000 for the rebuild. I just about fell to the floor when he told me was using non-detergent oil. After telling him he was crazy he went to detergent oil. With one summers use of non-detergent sludge was forming. It did not take long for the detergent oil to clean it back out. If it had 50 years of sludge it might have been a different story.

[ January 07, 2003, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: V6 Diesel ]
 
rugerman1,

Fantastic tractor. Excellent paint job.

There are two oils I would recommend for the following reasons:
1. High level of rust inhibitors,
2. thicker film for lubricating large clearances,
3. detergent/dispersant package

1. Schaeffer's #700 15W40
2. Amsoil 15W40 AME.

Do any of the manuals suggest an oil weight? If they suggest a 30 weight, the Schaeffer's
#703 or the Amsoil 10W30 ATM would be my choices.

I helped a friend rebuild a WD40.
 
Guys,
I think Dad said to use straight 30W since it only operates in warm temperatures.I'll talk to my uncle who used to service these tractors and get the scoop. As I indicated in the link,this is not a picture of the actual tractor. "Super A picture(not mine)". Just trying to give you an idea of the model.
I have every intention of restoring it back into a condition similar to that picture. I currently am "re-building" the '47 Dodge truck that used to belong to Dad and my uncle.Incredible amount of pride involved when you keep something running thats been in the family for many years.
It's not so much a rebuild as it is making it more driveable.
*Independent front suspension W/disc brakes
*Modern engine/trans>> 427 Big Block Chevy/Turbo 350
*New wiring harness,etc.

It'll look stock as factory,but run pretty good!

BTW MolaKule>> How does one rebuild a can of spray lube?
grin.gif


Mark
 
I might be leary of anything but group 1 or 2 oil.

Do we know what your engine seals are made of? And more importantly how will it react to a PAO or ester.

In the back of my head are possible leather, oiled paper, natural rubber or cork gaskets or seals. How about wood or pure lead journal bearings liners. Don't laugh I've seen wood and babbitt is mostly lead and was a very common bearing material.

That is a beautiful tractor that has some great memories attached to it. Don't let us stampeed you into putting some wonder lube in it.
 
The Schaeffer's products are Group I with some PAO for wider temperature operation (VI).

A WD40 is a 1940 International Harvester(McCormick-Deering) tractor that had the first Diesel engine. It started on gas and then switched over to diesel. Developed 49 BHP

We converted it over to rubber wheels since we couldn't fabricate the original steel wheels.
 
Rugerman since the Tractor does not see full time duty I like a regular 30wt modern mineral oil for this tractor since it gets changed once per year at low hours. Any current SL dollar per quart would be a Superoil in comparison to what was used in it during the 40-50 and 60's.

IMO a synthetic would be a waste of money and would leak bad past the rope type rear main seal used on the motor.
 
L8274 ,
Thanks for the information. I'm still trying to gather additional information ,anyone else with advice?

Mark

[ January 14, 2003, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
We ended-up using an ordinary OTC 10w-30,SJ oil in the Farmall this spring.We also changed the oil filter for the first time in a few years.Anyone who works on old tractors will appreciate the following line.We changed the air filter too!
grin.gif

The "air filter" is oil-bath type.On the side of the housing it says to change when there is a half-inch of sediment on the bottom.Not nearly that much in it this year.
How efficent is an oil-bath air cleaner?
Mark
 
Mystic oil's are used in this area when we can't obtain Schaeffer's or Amsoil.

You might want to try their 10W30 or 15W40 oils. They are made by Conoco
but are considered HD oils.

Air-bath filters will trap coarse particles. I would attempt to find some kind of paper filter to wrap around oil-bath filter.

[ May 06, 2003, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by rugerman1:
Is there any friction modifiers or anti-wear agents in non-detergent oil?Dads old Farmall requires a non-detergent oil. I ran high detergent 30 weight in it for a few years,then went back to non-detergent oil when I learned it was the specified lube.
It only sees action in the spring time now,about 5 hours of run time. Change the oil every year.
Super A picture(not mine)
Mark


small warning....those old motors dont like multiweight oils that much - bearing clearances (even then new) are too great.

I have a 1963 Massey 65 Dieselmatic that I have been running on Delo 15-40 with no problems and 50psi at rated power (1580 rpm) in that big perkins 203 inch diesel.....but the local dealer who has worked on it for me (and the owner has been into masseys for 50 years) said it would be better to use straight 30. (plus the fact that a leaky PS pump seal was shooting PS fluid into the case - Im quite proud of the rebuild I did over the weekend)
 
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