Hello All, I am new here so hopefully I followed the protocol.
My question is regarding balk ring syncros, also called servo syncros, and their use with synthetic gear oil. Porsche originally invented this mechanism before the now common borg warner type was invented, and kept using it much later than other manufacturers until 1986.
Here is the best explanation I could find online about the way this type of mechanism works, scroll down to "SERVO SYNCHROS":
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/RSR_4speed.asp
I have a better explanation in a book but it is copyrighted and I don't have a scanner to show the figure.
here's a moderately poor picture of the two synchromesh types, with the balk ring type on the right. you can see the stop that the split balk ring runs up against:
My particular application is using the Porsche 915 transaxle, but there are several other transmissions that use this synchromesh type, including older datsuns and older bmws.
here's a photo of the transaxle:
Consensus within the porsche community is that synthetics are "too slippery" for this balk ring synchromesh mechanism, particularly when warm. Several people have done back-to-back type tests, and experienced better performance with SWEPCO, a high quality "dino oil" than they did with the synthetic (primarily mobil 1 75w-90). Others have reported that regular valvoline dino gear oil works well, especially in 85w-140. Here are some quotes from very well respected people in the community:
Bill:
Hayden:
Also, Swepco makes an 80w-90 (201/203) and an 80w-140 (210/212). They don't publish pour points, but would the pour point for an 80w-90 probably be lower? I'd like the extra protection of the 80w-140 at the race track (although I guess it will run hotter), but I'd like some cold weather performance too. This is why the synthetic looks good, but there is the synchromesh issue.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!!
Andy
My question is regarding balk ring syncros, also called servo syncros, and their use with synthetic gear oil. Porsche originally invented this mechanism before the now common borg warner type was invented, and kept using it much later than other manufacturers until 1986.
Here is the best explanation I could find online about the way this type of mechanism works, scroll down to "SERVO SYNCHROS":
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/RSR_4speed.asp
I have a better explanation in a book but it is copyrighted and I don't have a scanner to show the figure.
here's a moderately poor picture of the two synchromesh types, with the balk ring type on the right. you can see the stop that the split balk ring runs up against:
My particular application is using the Porsche 915 transaxle, but there are several other transmissions that use this synchromesh type, including older datsuns and older bmws.
here's a photo of the transaxle:
Consensus within the porsche community is that synthetics are "too slippery" for this balk ring synchromesh mechanism, particularly when warm. Several people have done back-to-back type tests, and experienced better performance with SWEPCO, a high quality "dino oil" than they did with the synthetic (primarily mobil 1 75w-90). Others have reported that regular valvoline dino gear oil works well, especially in 85w-140. Here are some quotes from very well respected people in the community:
Bill:
It's important to note that Bill's transmission has a loop cooler on it which makes it impossible to change all of the fluid. perhaps 1/3 or 1/2 qt of the old SWEPCO probably remained in his trans.quote:
The reason that Swepco works better than synthetic in the 915, is the design of the syncros. The Porsche style syncros used thru 86 in the 915 are a multipiece(7 parts/syncro) design which NEED friction to work. When synthetic is used the required friction is reduced leading to relativly poor shifting(grunching)and higher effort. The G50's used since 87 have a much simpler Borg Warner designed sycro(think Ford Mustang) which does respond well to synthetic.
also:
The slower and more deliberately one shifts with synthetic the less of an issue arises.
and:
tried M1 syntheic gear lube and at first was happy w/ the results, but w/ use became more and mor disatisfied. You will find w/ time and use that the synrcos work less and less efficiently and you will have to shift slower and slower for them to work effectively. My theory is that the remanats of the old fluids additive package remain but are gradually worn away. I do not speed shift as a rule but there are times when you will want to hurry a shift a bit and you will be very very sorry w/ what happens at that time.
Hayden:
Steve:quote:
I have only performed one deliberate test on a synchro box. In one of my own cars (with transmission in un-inspected condition at this point). I drove for a couple of months with shift linkage, clutch and oil level all correct, using the oil that was in the car when I bought it. I then systematically tested Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec and Swepco 201.
The Mobil 1 and Castrol both felt better than the unknown oil that was in the trans - but only when cold. As they warmed up, the synchonizer action became weaker and the transmission required a more deliberate shift, with lower cadence.
The Swepco 201 felt like crap when the transmission was cold, heavy, baulky, equally as distracting (in a different manner) as the synths when they were warm.
However, when the 201 was warm, it felt great, light and with consistent synchro action, better than the original unknown oil and equally as light as the synths when they were cold.
I use the transmission oil at both very low and very high temperatures, so the low pour point and good protection of a synthetic is desirable. However, I want my synchros to work well. Many of these transaxles also have a ZF multiplate clutch friction limited slip, including mine.quote:
All Porsche transmissions use a very steep hypoid angle in the differential due to the necessity of close shaft spacing. This is a very highly stressed item and requires the use of a GL-5 Specification gear Lube. Since these gearboxes all use the Porsche-design balk ring syncromesh, they depend upon some friction for these brake-band type syncro's to work properly. The best gear lube for a 901-915-930 transmission is the superb Swepco 201 gear oil. Using a synthetic gear oil in these transmissions will result in higher syncro wear and stiffer shift quality.
Also, Swepco makes an 80w-90 (201/203) and an 80w-140 (210/212). They don't publish pour points, but would the pour point for an 80w-90 probably be lower? I'd like the extra protection of the 80w-140 at the race track (although I guess it will run hotter), but I'd like some cold weather performance too. This is why the synthetic looks good, but there is the synchromesh issue.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!!
Andy