Oh no that's why I always leave the hood up when it's not a quick repair that way I don't try to do anything if I forget.
Maybe I'm crazy - changing engine oil at 500 miles
- Thread starter JeepJKU08
- Start date
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
... I think that's nothing more than an old wive's tale nowadays. In the 60s, sure, go for it. ...
How sure are you about the '60s? My 1962 Chevrolet owner's manual specifies the initial oil change to be performed at the same mileage as subsequent intervals. That was already "an old wives' tale" then, perhaps.
... I think that's nothing more than an old wive's tale nowadays. In the 60s, sure, go for it. ...
How sure are you about the '60s? My 1962 Chevrolet owner's manual specifies the initial oil change to be performed at the same mileage as subsequent intervals. That was already "an old wives' tale" then, perhaps.
One thing I noticed is a very strong gas smell in the used oil. I'm thinking maybe because the rings have fully seated.
I had a 2018 Highlander before I fell out of love with its 8-speed cranky transmission. I put 6,000 miles (not KM), on it before I traded it and dumped the oil a few times in that time to flush it out. I have done this with all my vehicles in the past including my Santa Fe in my signature and well never had an engine failure. That's not to say it would if I didn't do this but oil is cheap and modern engines certainly are not.
In my current Caravan which I bought at the end of October to replace the Highlander has had the oil changed 3 times and it has 13,000km (less than 10K miles) on it, it's only now that I'm running Amsoil out to the OLM OCI.
In my current Caravan which I bought at the end of October to replace the Highlander has had the oil changed 3 times and it has 13,000km (less than 10K miles) on it, it's only now that I'm running Amsoil out to the OLM OCI.
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You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
It's a bit extreme but I get it. Won't hurt anything. But what are you going to due when you wheel that truck like it is supposed to be wheeled and you pinstripe it against a mesquite tree? I sucgest parking it up front at Walmart one weekend to get a door ding or two, you will enjoy the truck more when it is no longer perfect.
I run my Tacoma on the 6mo/5k interval. I didn't change my initial oil until 5k.
Primarily due to the gdi soot issues. I started it off New as a field truck. I them learned that I could drive to work in my truck as a biusiness expense, park it and use a Ford I didn't pay for to beat down the west Texas oilfield roads... so the taco gets a lot of highway miles and an easier life now.
The work truck, 2018 Ford F-150 with the 2.7 literTgDi EcoBoost has 5300 miles on the factory fill. The oil life monitor reads 50%. Going to keep trucking.the suspension will rip out from beneath it from the aweful potholed , washboard, and
Somewhat rough and uncrushed caliche roads before that engine slows down.
I run my Tacoma on the 6mo/5k interval. I didn't change my initial oil until 5k.
Primarily due to the gdi soot issues. I started it off New as a field truck. I them learned that I could drive to work in my truck as a biusiness expense, park it and use a Ford I didn't pay for to beat down the west Texas oilfield roads... so the taco gets a lot of highway miles and an easier life now.
The work truck, 2018 Ford F-150 with the 2.7 literTgDi EcoBoost has 5300 miles on the factory fill. The oil life monitor reads 50%. Going to keep trucking.the suspension will rip out from beneath it from the aweful potholed , washboard, and
Somewhat rough and uncrushed caliche roads before that engine slows down.
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Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
I sucgest parking it up front at Walmart one weekend to get a door ding or two, you will enjoy the truck more when it is no longer perfect.
Truth right there. WalMart is perfect for this crap.
I sucgest parking it up front at Walmart one weekend to get a door ding or two, you will enjoy the truck more when it is no longer perfect.
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The closest thing it sees to off road is pulling in the driveway lol. Spent too much money to tear it up. The Toyota oil is nothing more than Mobil 1. It's an okay oil but I wouldn't say it's better than Castrol.
It's a trd pro. Take it wheeling. First thing I did with my prep runners was do a quick lap on the alpine loop. I took the blue one through some Asante fe National forest and got her first pinstripes. She has backed into a rock at black bear.
The taco has backed into a big [censored] rock too under less glorious circumstances.
You could get t boned and totalled out in a month. Find a group and go on a overland journey or something. Life is short, all vehicles wear out.
You can't leave it parked over a drain pan in the garage forever. Learn to wheel, it's what it is for. It's why it's looks attracted you. You want to get out in the wild and learn to navigate difficult terrain.
The crawl control and terrain select are terrific. With a little coaching you can tackle some scary obstacles without a scratch or ding.
Seriously if you never wheel it, one day you will regret it. They do well.
Its like not making love to a beautiful woman because you paid to get her hair done and don't want to mess it up. Mess that hair up!
The taco has backed into a big [censored] rock too under less glorious circumstances.
You could get t boned and totalled out in a month. Find a group and go on a overland journey or something. Life is short, all vehicles wear out.
You can't leave it parked over a drain pan in the garage forever. Learn to wheel, it's what it is for. It's why it's looks attracted you. You want to get out in the wild and learn to navigate difficult terrain.
The crawl control and terrain select are terrific. With a little coaching you can tackle some scary obstacles without a scratch or ding.
Seriously if you never wheel it, one day you will regret it. They do well.
Its like not making love to a beautiful woman because you paid to get her hair done and don't want to mess it up. Mess that hair up!
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Why did you buy did vehicle if you don't trust the manfacturer ?
You should go at least half the OEMs period ie 5000km for break in.
And that would cover extreme conditions.
BITOG v OEM recommendation ?
I would go with one that gives the warranty !
Dropping the oil at 500km is crazy or rather stupid.
You should go at least half the OEMs period ie 5000km for break in.
And that would cover extreme conditions.
BITOG v OEM recommendation ?
I would go with one that gives the warranty !
Dropping the oil at 500km is crazy or rather stupid.
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Originally Posted by Gokhan
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
Originally Posted by virginoil
Why did you buy did vehicle if you don't trust the manfacturer ?
You should go at least half the OEMs period ie 5000km for break in.
And that would cover extreme conditions.
BITOG v OEM recommendation ?
I would go with one that gives the warranty !
Dropping the oil at 500km is crazy or rather stupid.
Maybe so. The oem just wants you to make it past the warranty period. After that they don't care. I trust them on many things except maintenance. When I had my 98 Jeep Sahara I was told the 32rh tranny didn't last longer than 100k. Same as far my second vehicle 2006 Honda Accord transmission. With frequent transmission fluid changes the Jeep went 250k and was going strong when sold. The Honda has 175k and shifts just as good as the day I bought it.
Moral of the story changing fluids before the recommended time can only help extend life. If you change it every 500 miles then yea it's stupid and wasteful. Break in metals cause the most wear. The oil had a strong fuel smell.
Why did you buy did vehicle if you don't trust the manfacturer ?
You should go at least half the OEMs period ie 5000km for break in.
And that would cover extreme conditions.
BITOG v OEM recommendation ?
I would go with one that gives the warranty !
Dropping the oil at 500km is crazy or rather stupid.
Maybe so. The oem just wants you to make it past the warranty period. After that they don't care. I trust them on many things except maintenance. When I had my 98 Jeep Sahara I was told the 32rh tranny didn't last longer than 100k. Same as far my second vehicle 2006 Honda Accord transmission. With frequent transmission fluid changes the Jeep went 250k and was going strong when sold. The Honda has 175k and shifts just as good as the day I bought it.
Moral of the story changing fluids before the recommended time can only help extend life. If you change it every 500 miles then yea it's stupid and wasteful. Break in metals cause the most wear. The oil had a strong fuel smell.
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Gokhan
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
I have a feeling Gokhan was kidding......... How do you know the factory fill was higher quality than what the OP used to replace it? Loaded with assembly lube? That is only needed for the initial firing up of the engine and the first few minutes it runs, isn't it? Otherwise we would be seeing on store shelves oil labeled "Factory-Fill," instead of things like HM, or AP, etc. XOM, Shell, Castrol are you listening?
Originally Posted by Gokhan
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
I have a feeling Gokhan was kidding......... How do you know the factory fill was higher quality than what the OP used to replace it? Loaded with assembly lube? That is only needed for the initial firing up of the engine and the first few minutes it runs, isn't it? Otherwise we would be seeing on store shelves oil labeled "Factory-Fill," instead of things like HM, or AP, etc. XOM, Shell, Castrol are you listening?
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Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted by spasm3
I dumped the oil in my cx-5 at just under 400 miles. I like to get the metal laden oil out early.
So what's the filter for?
Have you not noticed that the oil in brand new engines frequently show elevated metals in uoa tests, despite having a filter. Filters catch the big stuff.
There's been many, many, many times in my life the drained oil in a pan in full sunlight looks very "glittery" or metallic.
Obviously, filters only get out the "big stuff"
Things that don't have filters are a big deal to me ... seen the metal a number of times on first change ...
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted by spasm3
I dumped the oil in my cx-5 at just under 400 miles. I like to get the metal laden oil out early.
So what's the filter for?
Have you not noticed that the oil in brand new engines frequently show elevated metals in uoa tests, despite having a filter. Filters catch the big stuff.
There's been many, many, many times in my life the drained oil in a pan in full sunlight looks very "glittery" or metallic.
Obviously, filters only get out the "big stuff"
Things that don't have filters are a big deal to me ... seen the metal a number of times on first change ...
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Originally Posted by TRDPRO85
The closest thing it sees to off road is pulling in the driveway lol. Spent too much money to tear it up. The Toyota oil is nothing more than Mobil 1. It's an okay oil but I wouldn't say it's better than Castrol.
That Taco should be on the dunes at Quintana Beach, LoL ... BTW: 0w20 EP is one of the better M1's formulas ... but TGMO is another formula ...
The closest thing it sees to off road is pulling in the driveway lol. Spent too much money to tear it up. The Toyota oil is nothing more than Mobil 1. It's an okay oil but I wouldn't say it's better than Castrol.
That Taco should be on the dunes at Quintana Beach, LoL ... BTW: 0w20 EP is one of the better M1's formulas ... but TGMO is another formula ...
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Gokhan
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
I have a feeling Gokhan was kidding......... How do you know the factory fill was higher quality than what the OP used to replace it? Loaded with assembly lube? That is only needed for the initial firing up of the engine and the first few minutes it runs, isn't it? Otherwise we would be seeing on store shelves oil labeled "Factory-Fill," instead of things like HM, or AP, etc. XOM, Shell, Castrol are you listening?
I was kidding too. I remember when my dad bought his first new car. 1956 Ford. He had to take it back to the dealer at 500 miles to change the "break in" oil. Those days are long gone.
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Gokhan
You drained the high-quality factory-fill oil and filled with an inferior off-the-shelf oil.
Thinking the same thing...
I have a feeling Gokhan was kidding......... How do you know the factory fill was higher quality than what the OP used to replace it? Loaded with assembly lube? That is only needed for the initial firing up of the engine and the first few minutes it runs, isn't it? Otherwise we would be seeing on store shelves oil labeled "Factory-Fill," instead of things like HM, or AP, etc. XOM, Shell, Castrol are you listening?
I was kidding too. I remember when my dad bought his first new car. 1956 Ford. He had to take it back to the dealer at 500 miles to change the "break in" oil. Those days are long gone.
I had a rebuilt engine dropped into my ford truck. I had changed the oil on it 3 times by 500 miles. Glitter every time. I just don't like the idea of fine metal in my engines. On the third oil change and no glitter I extended my miles. So basically I agree with getting factory fills out early. I would have done it myself.
I had bought a brand-new Toyota in 2008 and changed the oil every time with M1 0W-20 SM, which was a PAO-based formulation. However, I didn't realize that the factory-fill TGMO 0W-20 SM was a great oil as well and it had 800 ppm moly.
The current ExxonMobil-made TGMO 0W-20 SN fill I have is GTL with 800 ppm moly. The latest version of TGMO probably doesn't have high moly though.
BP/Castrol 0W-20? It's mediocre at best. M1 0W-20? A good oil but you don't know if the additive pack is more suitable for break-in.
The point is that you are looking at fancy colored graphics and names on oil bottles and you're assuming that they are superior oils over a factory fill that comes in a black bottle. The fact is that you don't know and there is a good chance that they are not as good as the factory fill. For example, I would rather keep the 800 ppm high-moly oil in during the break-in.
The current ExxonMobil-made TGMO 0W-20 SN fill I have is GTL with 800 ppm moly. The latest version of TGMO probably doesn't have high moly though.
BP/Castrol 0W-20? It's mediocre at best. M1 0W-20? A good oil but you don't know if the additive pack is more suitable for break-in.
The point is that you are looking at fancy colored graphics and names on oil bottles and you're assuming that they are superior oils over a factory fill that comes in a black bottle. The fact is that you don't know and there is a good chance that they are not as good as the factory fill. For example, I would rather keep the 800 ppm high-moly oil in during the break-in.