Oil filter for Canadian winter

[Popsy]

Hi,

First time with a "loose element" filter and not a spin on, and I'm at loss.

Car is a Mazda 6, 2007, 2.3 engine. Oil is M1 0W40, anticipated temperatures above 0°F.
Some of the cartridges looked flimsy (like the OEM filter, made by Sogefi it seems), I suppose to resist better the cold starts a filter with a backing plate is better, but which filters have backing?

Don't really know what to get (will order from Rockauto). Best are probably Wix XP (seem to have some plastic backing on the inside) or the Fram ultra style (metal backing on the filter media itself ?), FPS9641.

Thanks

 

[PeterPolyol]

Cartridge elements are easy peasy for the winter, no need for synthetic media unless that was your preference. These filters usually have more media (and even pleats since they're visible) than most equivalent canisters. No need to worry about excess delta-pressure across the media when there is a bypass valve. With cartridge filters better to pay attn to the correct dimensions and sealing more than wire backing IMO

 

[WobblyElvis]

If I remember correctly, that oil filter is a bit messing and time consuming to change. I try to avoid unnecessary work so I would use a Fram Ultra as they supposedly can hold more dirt and last for more than one oil change interval.

 

[Popsy]

Good to know!

But then...correct dimensions ? Aren't they all supposed to fit ...° ?

When I bought the car I removed a very wawy and brittle cheapish filter (Napa proselect ? Made in China), and replaced with a Cheap Fram from Walmart, for the interim (while some other parts of the car were being worked on). Also replaced the cartridge filter cover by a new OEM one, and got a bonus filter with it.
If you say no media backing is necessary, I'll probably use that...but what I extracted when I got the car looked scary after only ~2000Km, lol !

Putting last touch to the transmission tomorrow, so oil change will be next and it'll be ready for winter, with the 4 Michelin X-ice3 I just got

 

[tig1]

I use the MC FL2017B cartridge filter in my 2007 Ford Fusion which has the same engine as your Mazda. I found that the MC filter does not twist like other filters I tried. Filters like Fram, M1, etc. I have been using them for about 8 years and they always look great after my normal 10K OCI. You can order them from Auto Zone or get them at any Ford dealer. Here is a pic of the new and old filter. Also not sure why you would use M1 0-40 oil in the 2.3. I have used M1 0-20 for years and my engine runs like new, is very clean, no timing chain noise, and the engine shows no sign of engine wear.

 

[Popsy]

Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
If I remember correctly, that oil filter is a bit messing and time consuming to change. I try to avoid unnecessary work so I would use a Fram Ultra as they supposedly can hold more dirt and last for more than one oil change interval.

It's actually not that bad : undercarriage cover (approx 250 screws) to remove, then the filter is just there, sitting vertically...can get messy, unles you first drain the filter assembly (there is a drain plug in the middle of the filter cover).
If you want to do it clean, a bit more time consuming than say the Colt, which is very easy (turn the wheel and you have the filter just there).
Last (and first) time I did it I didn't bother draining the filter assembly, the cover was so messed up I replaced it by a new one...will see what I do this time.

But yeah, quick oil change places must hate that kind of setup... since I'm old and cranky, doesn't change much for me, haha!

 

[Popsy]

Originally Posted by tig1
I use the MC FL2017B cartridge filter in my 2007 Ford Fusion which has the same engine as your Mazda. I found that the MC filter does not twist like other filters I tried. Filters like Fram, M1, etc. I have been using them for about 8 years and they always look great after my normal 10K OCI. You can order them from Auto Zone or get them at any Ford dealer. Here is a pic of the new and old filter. Also not sure why you would use M1 0-40 oil in the 2.3. I have used M1 0-20 for years and my engine runs like new, is very clean, no timing chain noise, and the engine shows no sign of engine wear.

Thanks for the picture, that filter looks good, not wawy at all. Does it have plastic backing in the middle?
As for the oil...it's true the NA version calls for 5W20. In Europe, it calls for 10W40/5W40, and since I have 2 jugs of 0W40 left, I was going to use it...this would be another topic! 0W20 would be great for cold start, but what about the fuel dilution, since it'll probably see some idling and short trips, with long trips only once a week? Is it an engine prone to fuel dilution?

Edit: this filter is available at Rockauto, added one to my basket

 

[atikovi]

Why not just use a Mazda filter?

 

[Popsy]

Why not. Plus I already have one. But I don't know, it looks flimsy...but maybe they are all like that?
Other cars I mostly used Purflux filter, with the zig zag media.

 

[Garak]

Before buying online, maybe check the construction of the ordinary Wix element locally, to see how tough it looks. Baldwin at your local Acklands is another thing to consider and probably even cheaper than RA.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

My choice would be Mahle

Order the Mahle oil filter, Mahle air filter,and the Mahle CareMetix cabin filter (part number LAO158). They all ship from teh same warehouse, and the air filter and oil filter are made in Austria, while the cabin filter is made in Germany

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted by Popsy
Originally Posted by tig1
I use the MC FL2017B cartridge filter in my 2007 Ford Fusion which has the same engine as your Mazda. I found that the MC filter does not twist like other filters I tried. Filters like Fram, M1, etc. I have been using them for about 8 years and they always look great after my normal 10K OCI. You can order them from Auto Zone or get them at any Ford dealer. Here is a pic of the new and old filter. Also not sure why you would use M1 0-40 oil in the 2.3. I have used M1 0-20 for years and my engine runs like new, is very clean, no timing chain noise, and the engine shows no sign of engine wear.

Thanks for the picture, that filter looks good, not wawy at all. Does it have plastic backing in the middle?
As for the oil...it's true the NA version calls for 5W20. In Europe, it calls for 10W40/5W40, and since I have 2 jugs of 0W40 left, I was going to use it...this would be another topic! 0W20 would be great for cold start, but what about the fuel dilution, since it'll probably see some idling and short trips, with long trips only once a week? Is it an engine prone to fuel dilution?

Edit: this filter is available at Rockauto, added one to my basket

Yes, it has the plastic tube inside, and is very well supported. M1 0-20 is very good in cold starts, but is also outstanding in high temps as well. I have used it in temps over 100F will great results. Frankly, I don't trust the Euro's when it comes to oil. especially in NA (non turbo) engines that call for 20wt oils. Also no sign of fuel dilution.

 

[bbhero]

^^^^^^^^^^^

This. Tig1 has very good advice here.

 

[Puckrobber]

You've got a Barchetta. Wouldn't be red, would it? (Sorry. Rush fan here.

)

I would think it would depend on how much you're driving it during the winter. If not many miles, you should be okay with a simple brand name filter. If a lot of miles (5000 or more) a Fram Ultra is a great choice. Gives you a peace of mind whether you're driving 5000 or 10,000 miles. Highly recommended on this board.

 

[Popsy]

The 96 Barchetta is blue

Had a yellow, sold it to my FIL, got the Mazda instead.
The red paint was actually pretty bad on these Barchetta, at least earlier models...when I bought the blue, I was eyeing a red, lol !

Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog

Order the Mahle oil filter, Mahle air filter,and the Mahle CareMetix cabin filter (part number LAO158). They all ship from teh same warehouse, and the air filter and oil filter are made in Austria, while the cabin filter is made in Germany

I have the air and cabin filters from Mahle, oil filter would make a trio. If the oil filter is really made in Austria, then why not, I thought it was a Purolator made filter so avoided it.
Originally Posted by bbhero
^^^^^^^^^^^
This. Tig1 has very good advice here.

I agree, thank you Tig1. I think I'll probably go to Napa see a few filters today. And reconsider my choice of oil

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by Popsy
Why not. Plus I already have one. But I don't know, it looks flimsy...but maybe they are all like that?
Other cars I mostly used Purflux filter, with the zig zag media.


I don't think Mazda would have a crappy filter and risk millions in warranty claims if the filter causes any engine damage. I wouldn't overthink the choice of oil filters on a few thousand dollar car. More important is to change it and the oil regularly. Even a $2 filter is better than $5 one if you change it twice as frequently.

 

[Popsy]

I'm just looking for a filter that will resist numerous cold starts in cold weather (this winter is pretty mild so far, but it will probably go to 0°F or under soon).
It will be changed in April/May along with the oil, so no need to overthink indeed, as long as it doesn't tear.

Anyway, had a little fun at the car part stores today (where is the fun if there is no choice ?). And yes, the Bosch is crooked. The OEM filter doesn't have media backing, so I assume the manufacturer thought it wasn't necessary, or wanted to make economies

Wix XP looks the best to me, it's also the most expensive. Napa gold had no backing.

As for the value of the car (not much) vs the price of a filter, I just want a reliable car with clean interior and glasses

 

[JC1]

To the OP what's the mileage on the motor? You should remove the valve cover to see how clean the engine is.

Personally I've switched over to Fram Ultras for both my vehicles. On my civic I'll run the filter for two years which will be at least 3 -4 OCI for a total of 20,000 km (12.5k miles). Car does a lot of short trips. The civic is 21 years old with 205k km. Engine is spotless under the valve cover.

On the caravan I'll run the filter for two 9-10,000 km OCI.

You can try out whatever you want on Rockauto. Let us know what you choose and post pics after you use them.

 

[Popsy]

Bought it at 174800Km, is now at 176xxx. I feel too lazy to remove the valve cover since it's cold outside and there is absolutely no leak, but it looks very clean through the fill hole, not even varnished. Previous owner was an old guy that did religious 5K Km oil whange with some 5W20 synthetic at his local garage.
(Transmission was probably never serviced though).

The Ultra seems to be of good value, will probably go with it for now, but will definitely try the Motorcraft too.

 

[JC1]

Does the tranny have a filter you can replace?