Homelite 360

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I was doing inventory at work and found this chainsaw, Homeite 360 automatic, under a shelf with an inch of dust on it. Had a tag that said runs but dies on it. I asked my boss about it and he said to ask my manager on Monday, if he doesnt know who its for that I can have it. Are these good saws? All metal, looks to be from the late 70s to early 80s from what I read online. I'd like to get it running and use it. I read that theres a boot on the carb that is a royal pain to change.

chainsaw 360H.jpg
 
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Parts are impossible to find for some older saws, and as such, impossible to get/keep running. Thats my experience with old saws.
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
Parts are impossible to find for some older saws, and as such, impossible to get/keep running. Thats my experience with old saws.


True. I stopped trying to get parts for my 25 year old Husqvarna saw for that very reason. But Jack's Small Engine is a decent internet source for parts.
 
Parts for these are all over eBay. Good medium duty saw. Real mag and aluminum. Fuel lines are an issue. Two sizes used , one sleeved into the other. Can be made out of Tygon tubing and will run quite a while.

Join Arborist Site here and read posts on restoring these. Many have been done up real well. Tough enough saws to run and cut well as long as they are taken care of. Good bucking saws because they have side exhaust (not into the wood). Everyone needs one side exhaust saw. Front exhaust is good for felling and stumping.

When you get it home, pull the muffler and stroke the piston up and down while looking in the exhaust port. Minor scratches from bits of hard carbon are OK, but any major scratches, gouges, rough surfaces, etc - it's toast. Compression should be over 100 psi to run well. If not, it'll need rings. It uses points, so the mag will have to come off to service. Not hard to do. Get a piston stop and ease over the edges where it touches the piston when screwed in.

Do not run it on 50:1. 32:1 is much better with quality oil. It's gotta smoke some to be happy
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Once the carb is rebuilt, tune L speed jet so it'll idle just below chain-go speed. H jet should be rich enough that it'll 4-stroke some while running unloaded, then clean up and pull hard once in the wood (common tune for all these old saws). Any leaner than that and you'll be buying pistons and rings ...
 
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Brocluno's advice is spot on.
The older Homelites were good saws, they took a turn for the worse on the mid to late 80's and really became cheap saws.
We had a 70's model Super XL when I was growing up on the farm, we cut most of our own firewood with that saw every year and it was a reliable saw until a tree fell on it and destroyed it!
 
Originally Posted by cronk
Brocluno's advice is spot on.

We had a 70's model Super XL when I was growing up on the farm, we cut most of our own firewood with that saw every year and it was a reliable saw until a tree fell on it and destroyed it!


We had one of those. Used it a lot as a teen. I probably don't hear well now because of it. You developed the habit of rhythmically pressing the thumb actuated bar oiler while cutting.
 
The old Homelites were great saws in their day. Rebuild the carb and I bet you will have a great saw. Diaphrams are likely hardened up and not pulling in fuel as it should. I fixed up a large Homelite built in 1973 and still use it today. No safety devices on old saws so be careful.
 
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Originally Posted by Lubener
No safety devices on old saws so be careful.


^This. There's no chain break safety bar on these older saws, so if it kicks back, it's possible the chain could tear into your face. The only reason I'm stressing about this is because I saw the results of that about 30 years ago.
 
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