Any Glaze Users ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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I will be watching this post as you do not hear much talk about glaze being performed as part detailing on the forum. I received a sample bottle from Wolfgang which I tried as it stated it helps to fill in fine scratches or marks and will really make your car pop when the wax is applied. I do think it helped and I was pleased with my results , but I am very novice still and I think as I improve with practice the results will be much better.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Do you use a glaze before you wax ? If so , what is your brand and process you employ with a wax ?
I glaze after clay bar and polish....then glaze...then wax / sealant on top.
Do you use a glaze before you wax ? If so , what is your brand and process you employ with a wax ?
I glaze after clay bar and polish....then glaze...then wax / sealant on top.
I purchased a name brand, and highly recommended glaze this summer. I applied it on two vehicles after cleaning (one was also clayed) and before the final wax coat.
I couldn't tell a bit of difference or improvement of any kind. Perhaps it was because both of these vehicles were white in color as some have said it works better on black?
I couldn't tell a bit of difference or improvement of any kind. Perhaps it was because both of these vehicles were white in color as some have said it works better on black?
A glaze will wash away and is only temporary. If you have scratches or swirls the best way to remove them is a polish or a compound if the scratches are really deep. I've never polished an entire car, only spot polished to remove random scratches using Megs Scratch-X. A few weeks ago I washed, clayed applied a pre-bonding agent then a pure sealant on top. The results were excellent on an 05 car that sits outside all the time. The color is silver so a bit more forgiving than the darker colors.
There's glaze as in glazed donut, sort of an oily type product, and there's glaze as in some kind of topical plasticky sealant thing.
I used the second kind from Chemical guys with Collinite on top. I was worried it might hurt the durability of the wax, but It didn't. I remember thinking at the time that it helped the appearance some .
Kind of a marginal type thing I guess. I don't have time for it.
I used the second kind from Chemical guys with Collinite on top. I was worried it might hurt the durability of the wax, but It didn't. I remember thinking at the time that it helped the appearance some .
Kind of a marginal type thing I guess. I don't have time for it.
JHZR2
Staff member
My understanding is that glazes were more useful for single stage paints, to somehow replenish oils and help them to remain flexible and less prone to oxidation. My understanding is that glazes "absorb" into the color coat to some extent, so its entirely plausible that if removed properly, that a wax or other coating could subsequently bond if it had a stronger surface affinity than the glaze sitting there.
Apparently some do use glazes on clear coat finishes, but the clear doesnt absorb the same way that a single stage would.
At least my understanding, FWIW...
Apparently some do use glazes on clear coat finishes, but the clear doesnt absorb the same way that a single stage would.
At least my understanding, FWIW...
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
A glaze will wash away and is only temporary. If you have scratches or swirls the best way to remove them is a polish or a compound if the scratches are really deep. I've never polished an entire car, only spot polished to remove random scratches using Megs Scratch-X. A few weeks ago I washed, clayed applied a pre-bonding agent then a pure sealant on top. The results were excellent on an 05 car that sits outside all the time. The color is silver so a bit more forgiving than the darker colors.
If you clay bar, then polish, then glaze, then apply a quality sealant like Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid...the glaze will not wash away. The sealant does what it says...seals in the items done before it.
Furthermore, if these steps are properly applied...and every wash includes a nice UV protection spray wax (like V7 or Blazin Banana from Chemical Guys) ...the sealant will continue to sustain the sealing process.
I've followed this 5-step process twice every 6 months for multiple cycles, and the surface remains scuff/scratch free and smooth as though it was just waxed. That is even obvious on the Pearl White finish on the SUV here. Even the owner of a nearby cutting-edge car-wash has repeated told me this SUV "is the 2nd best-looking finish of any vehicle that comes there behind a red Lamborghini which comes in every 5-7 days.
![[Linked Image]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Df7DkqPUcAAEFhZ.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DjLuhkbU8AAzhRg.jpg "[Linked Image]")
A glaze will wash away and is only temporary. If you have scratches or swirls the best way to remove them is a polish or a compound if the scratches are really deep. I've never polished an entire car, only spot polished to remove random scratches using Megs Scratch-X. A few weeks ago I washed, clayed applied a pre-bonding agent then a pure sealant on top. The results were excellent on an 05 car that sits outside all the time. The color is silver so a bit more forgiving than the darker colors.
If you clay bar, then polish, then glaze, then apply a quality sealant like Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid...the glaze will not wash away. The sealant does what it says...seals in the items done before it.
Furthermore, if these steps are properly applied...and every wash includes a nice UV protection spray wax (like V7 or Blazin Banana from Chemical Guys) ...the sealant will continue to sustain the sealing process.
I've followed this 5-step process twice every 6 months for multiple cycles, and the surface remains scuff/scratch free and smooth as though it was just waxed. That is even obvious on the Pearl White finish on the SUV here. Even the owner of a nearby cutting-edge car-wash has repeated told me this SUV "is the 2nd best-looking finish of any vehicle that comes there behind a red Lamborghini which comes in every 5-7 days.
I recently used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21 on my Crystal White Pearl Subaru. My first time using a car product with glaze in its name. It went on top of a four month old Meguiar's Ultimate Wax wax job.
I applied it by hand, let it dry four an hour, then wiped it off by hand. The paint now has a gel coat look on it, like when my wife puts a gel coat on her fingernails. Pretty cool affect actually. It doesn't feel as slick as it looks, though. The Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax leaves a slicker feeling surface, IMO. But, last week we had heavy rain showers for a couple of days, and the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21 showed it true benefits, as the water seemed to just disappeared off the car as I drove, and no water spots left behind on the paint surface when parked in the garage.
I have to say that Meguiar's makes great products, and I see no reason to use expensive boutique brands.
I applied it by hand, let it dry four an hour, then wiped it off by hand. The paint now has a gel coat look on it, like when my wife puts a gel coat on her fingernails. Pretty cool affect actually. It doesn't feel as slick as it looks, though. The Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax leaves a slicker feeling surface, IMO. But, last week we had heavy rain showers for a couple of days, and the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21 showed it true benefits, as the water seemed to just disappeared off the car as I drove, and no water spots left behind on the paint surface when parked in the garage.
I have to say that Meguiar's makes great products, and I see no reason to use expensive boutique brands.
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
I've followed this 5-step process twice every 6 months for multiple cycles, and the surface remains scuff/scratch free and smooth as though it was just waxed. That is even obvious on the Pearl White finish on the SUV here. Even the owner of a nearby cutting-edge car-wash has repeated told me this SUV "is the 2nd best-looking finish of any vehicle that comes there behind a red Lamborghini which comes in every 5-7 days.
Seems a bit odd to go through all that work every 6 mos to end up taking it to a car wash. No wonder you have to do all that work so often. But some like to take short cuts.
I've followed this 5-step process twice every 6 months for multiple cycles, and the surface remains scuff/scratch free and smooth as though it was just waxed. That is even obvious on the Pearl White finish on the SUV here. Even the owner of a nearby cutting-edge car-wash has repeated told me this SUV "is the 2nd best-looking finish of any vehicle that comes there behind a red Lamborghini which comes in every 5-7 days.
Seems a bit odd to go through all that work every 6 mos to end up taking it to a car wash. No wonder you have to do all that work so often. But some like to take short cuts.
Originally Posted by knerml
HYUNDAIFAN0001, what do you use the treat the lower black plastic cladding. Looks good in the picture.
Wipe New - Lasts a long time...and if you take the 5 minutes taking your time to do all the trim...the results are fantastic and last about 6 months.
Originally Posted by parshisa
Glaze is s waste of time and money. Use wax, sealant or coating instead.
Really? - they don't seem to mind doing the very same steps I follow (including glaze) on the $280,000 Lamborghini and $400,000 Rolls Silver Shadow at the local car show. Good luck duplicate the results without it.
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Seems a bit odd to go through all that work every 6 mos to end up taking it to a car wash. No wonder you have to do all that work so often. But some like to take short cuts.
Nothing odd about it. Doing it every 6 months is smart and recommended by the product manufacturers, and rightly so. The car wash has nothing to do with it.
HYUNDAIFAN0001, what do you use the treat the lower black plastic cladding. Looks good in the picture.
Wipe New - Lasts a long time...and if you take the 5 minutes taking your time to do all the trim...the results are fantastic and last about 6 months.
Originally Posted by parshisa
Glaze is s waste of time and money. Use wax, sealant or coating instead.
Really? - they don't seem to mind doing the very same steps I follow (including glaze) on the $280,000 Lamborghini and $400,000 Rolls Silver Shadow at the local car show. Good luck duplicate the results without it.
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Seems a bit odd to go through all that work every 6 mos to end up taking it to a car wash. No wonder you have to do all that work so often. But some like to take short cuts.
Nothing odd about it. Doing it every 6 months is smart and recommended by the product manufacturers, and rightly so. The car wash has nothing to do with it.
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Nothing odd about it. Doing it every 6 months is smart and recommended by the product manufacturers, and rightly so. The car wash has nothing to do with it.
Why not wash it at home? It's not like you live in an apartment. You're physically able if you're detailing it every 6 mos. Odd. Plus the weather in your area is decent. Please explain, thank you.
Nothing odd about it. Doing it every 6 months is smart and recommended by the product manufacturers, and rightly so. The car wash has nothing to do with it.
Why not wash it at home? It's not like you live in an apartment. You're physically able if you're detailing it every 6 mos. Odd. Plus the weather in your area is decent. Please explain, thank you.
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
[Why not wash it at home? It's not like you live in an apartment. You're physically able if you're detailing it every 6 mos. Odd. Plus the weather in your area is decent. Please explain, thank you.
Time matters - rather spend the time on things that provide better results from the same amount of time. Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.
Good use of time includes 15-20 minutes of post-wash UV spray wax sealant treatment (including glass, trim, and paint surfaces) - takes even less time than it takes to hand-wash, not to mention renders more productive results.
[Why not wash it at home? It's not like you live in an apartment. You're physically able if you're detailing it every 6 mos. Odd. Plus the weather in your area is decent. Please explain, thank you.
Time matters - rather spend the time on things that provide better results from the same amount of time. Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.
Good use of time includes 15-20 minutes of post-wash UV spray wax sealant treatment (including glass, trim, and paint surfaces) - takes even less time than it takes to hand-wash, not to mention renders more productive results.
Originally Posted by JHZR2
My understanding is that glazes were more useful for single stage paints, to somehow replenish oils and help them to remain flexible and less prone to oxidation. My understanding is that glazes "absorb" into the color coat to some extent, so its entirely plausible that if removed properly, that a wax or other coating could subsequently bond if it had a stronger surface affinity than the glaze sitting there.
Apparently some do use glazes on clear coat finishes, but the clear doesnt absorb the same way that a single stage would.
At least my understanding, FWIW...
Yes, you have that right. Single stage is permeable while 2K clear is not, a glaze can be very beneficial to this type of paint. There is not much you can do to 2K other than remove the scratches and swirls and top it with a sealer or wax, glaze is almost a worthless waste of time on this type of paint.
If the polish used was a little too coarse it may fill micro scratches giving the appearance that it actually did something but it didn't penetrate the surface just flatten it slightly . That is the physical property of the paint, using an ultra fine polish with a waffle pad keeping and the surface wet with product will eliminate swirls even on black cars.
https://www.amazon.com/06068-Perfec...sr=8-3&keywords=3m+ultra+fine+polish
My understanding is that glazes were more useful for single stage paints, to somehow replenish oils and help them to remain flexible and less prone to oxidation. My understanding is that glazes "absorb" into the color coat to some extent, so its entirely plausible that if removed properly, that a wax or other coating could subsequently bond if it had a stronger surface affinity than the glaze sitting there.
Apparently some do use glazes on clear coat finishes, but the clear doesnt absorb the same way that a single stage would.
At least my understanding, FWIW...
Yes, you have that right. Single stage is permeable while 2K clear is not, a glaze can be very beneficial to this type of paint. There is not much you can do to 2K other than remove the scratches and swirls and top it with a sealer or wax, glaze is almost a worthless waste of time on this type of paint.
If the polish used was a little too coarse it may fill micro scratches giving the appearance that it actually did something but it didn't penetrate the surface just flatten it slightly . That is the physical property of the paint, using an ultra fine polish with a waffle pad keeping and the surface wet with product will eliminate swirls even on black cars.
https://www.amazon.com/06068-Perfec...sr=8-3&keywords=3m+ultra+fine+polish
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.
??
Not sure I see the time savings of putting a nice car through an automated car wash that might generate fine scratches that one then has to laboriously polish out, but perhaps you are using a touch-free car wash.
Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.
??
Not sure I see the time savings of putting a nice car through an automated car wash that might generate fine scratches that one then has to laboriously polish out, but perhaps you are using a touch-free car wash.
I have used Meguiar's Show Car Glaze #7 prior to using their Gold Class Plus Carnauba Liquid on my dark green Maxima. I find there is a marginal improvement to gloss and color depth but it is noticeable. Perhaps it is because the car has minimal to no micro scratches or swirls but I always thought the oils were supposed to do something beyond the filler function and therefore still of value. Generally, it depends on how ambitious I am as I always do it by hand!
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