Oil-change confusion

[FirmTofu]

I'm a bit confused about the oil drain plug situation. Is it recommended to replace it every oil change? Or just the gasket?

The washer I'm looking at:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,2016,jetta,1.4l+l4+turbocharged,3354162,engine,oil+drain+plug+gasket,5428

Thanks guys!

 

[CharBaby]

I believe it just the gasket. Although I don't change the gasket in my vehicles. However, when I did(with nylon gasket) all I got were drips. I've kept vehicles 15, 16, 17, 18 & 38 yrs and never changed them. All without issues.

 

[SirTanon]

The drain plug on my Fusion has an embedded rubber gasket. I don't think I've ever changed the gasket.

 

[FowVay]

VW has put the drain plug on the recommended replacement list at each oil service because the gasket is captive on the plug. If you can get the gasket off of the drain plug then you can replace it with one of these part numbers:

N 013 849 3 (annealed aluminum)
N 013 849 2 (annealed copper)

If your car has an aluminum pan then order the aluminum washer. If you have a steel pan then order the copper. It is suggested to replace the gasket at each plug removal.

The OEM drain plug for your 2016 Jetta 1.4 is N-902-889-01 which cost only $3.60 from the dealership (plug w/gasket). You could change the whole plug once every few years with the OEM part and it not be a cost prohibitive event.

 

[knerml]

A had Audi's with cast aluminum pans in the past.

Had constant problems with leaking drain plug gaskets, until I went to using OEM drain plug/gasket combinations.

This is because of how the pan is machined.

These plug/gaskets are inexpensive in lots of 4 or more, online.

 

[Hounds]

Deleted.

 

[danez_yoda]

The biggest thing is to make sure you properly torque and untorque then. Many new folks are afraid of drips so that torque them with a cheater bar. Over the years I use the same closed end wrench for every change and know by feel when I get the right amount of torque. Easy turning until it firmly seats to where my fingertips on the wrench cant turn in any more then "uummhhh" (~ 1/8 - 1/4 turn) that's it.

These were metal to metal with a aluminum gasket. Never leaked.


I have only stripped one over the years where I use a cheater bar to get a new cars plug off that the dealer put on too tight. I got lefty loosy backwards under the car and was tightening it instead of loosening it. Talk about mad when I realized what I did. New pan and bolt on a new to me car. had to hitch a ride to get the new parts.

Oh well nice clean oil pan on a car with 25K miles on it at the time. LOL.

 

[oil_film_movies]

To prevent leaks, put a thin layer of silicone rubber gasket goo from a tube on all sides of the washer right before putting it on. Seals great that way. Don't overtighten.

 

[CR94]

Never replaced a drain plug OR gasket, and never had a plug leak with any of the cars listed in my signature, all with stamped steel pans. Washer ("gasket") materials were and are:
Chevrolet and Subaru: Steel;
Mazda: Aluminum; thinned with use;
Toyota: Plastic-coated aluminum; Toyota claims their fancy washer needs to be replaced every time. It doesn't, if not abused.

 

[dawgn86]

Been changing the oil in my cars for 20 plus years and never had to do this until yesterday

 

[dblshock]

I like to turn the washer over...replace when they wont come off the drain bolt.

 

[UG_Passat]

If the drain plug is:
WHT000310A

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/transmission-drain-plug/wht000310a/

Then yes, you need to replace the crush washer each time

 

[Benzadmiral]

When I was changing oil on my MB 420SEL, I bought the Mann filter, and it always came with a crush washer to replace the old one when you removed the drain plug. I used 'em, why not, until I started draining the oil from up top with an extractor.