2015 Chrysler T&C Slow To Warm

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My 2015 T&C takes over 15 minutes at idle to get warm enough to open the t-stat at 50F outside!! The heat/hvac was off for this.

I verified the t-stat is opening/closing around 190F.

This seems absurdly slow to me. Is this normal? If not, what could be potential causes?
 
Are you getting cabin heat after 15min of idle from cold start?

Just curious how you are determining when the t-stat is opening.
 
Originally Posted by JTK
Are you getting cabin heat after 15min of idle from cold start?

Just curious how you are determining when the t-stat is opening.

You'll get heat before the thermostat opens, though.
 
Your thermostat in that van has an opening temperature of 203F so if it's opening at that low of a temperature that is the problem as the heat is drawn directly off the engine coolant because the radiator fan runs at slow speed all the time and then hits high speed when the thermostat opens releasing the hot coolant into the radiator for cooling. (PentaStar V6 3.6L)

Changing it is relatively easy but you will need to bleed the system for air once installed by using the plastic bleed screw at the top of the thermostat housing that connects to the upper radiator hose. It's on the left side of the engine near the belt. Once reinstalled, just open the screw and fill the radiator until coolant comes out and then close the screw will coolant still leaking out as you close it.

Make sure you refill spilled coolant with Mopar OAT and Not HOAT as your's is a 2015 model year.
https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Year-Mile-Coolant-Premixed/dp/B017DP43ZC (50/50 Pre-Mix)

Here are the parts for reference:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,3309778,cooling+system,thermostat,2200
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,thermostat+housing+/+water+outlet,10337

This video shows you what's involved. It shows a 2011 Dodge but it's the same as your 2015 T&C.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPpmDUxNuq8
 
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I've never let my SUV run that long at idle but it will get up to temp. within 5 minutes of driving in the coldest winters.
 
Originally Posted by another Todd
This is a non issue. It opens, so just drive it and don't worry. At idle cars take longer to warm up.


The issue is even when driving it is taking a long time to warm and when it is in the teens, it takes a really long time to get usable heat out of the hvac and it seems to be related to how long it takes to heat up the coolant as it blows hot air after coolant warms up.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
Your thermostat in that van has an opening temperature of 203F so if it's opening at that low of a temperature that is the problem as the heat is drawn directly off the engine coolant because the radiator fan runs at slow speed all the time and then hits high speed when the thermostat opens releasing the hot coolant into the radiator for cooling. (PentaStar V6 3.6L)



I don't think that will help anything as it won't even get me to 190F faster. I understand the 203F issue but I don't think that is related to this.
 
You said the thermostat is opening at 190F which means it's opening at too cold of a temperature than Chrysler intended. As the heater core draws heat from the engine directly, if the thermostat is opening too early the cold coolant from the radiator moves into the engine and further drops the 190F temperature of the coolant that is going to your heater core which is why you have a heat problem.

In my 2018 Caravan with the same engine it gets to full operating temperature from cold start after driving about 10-12 minutes at the current outdoor temperatures hovering around 30F. I don't get reasonable warm air until I hit 197F as per my electronic drivers information center coolant temperature reading.

When in traffic idling a lot the coolant will get as high as 220F at times and that is when I get really hot air coming out of the vents. (This is when the rad fan kicks on high and reduces it to 200F and then resumes low speed fan speed) They are designed to run this hot for better fuel atomization. Even my Journey ran this hot. (2 thermostat setup in that vehicle, but the hotter thermostat was 203F)

So if your thermostat is opening at 190F then this is why you have no heat because your system was designed with 203F in mind. It's also affecting your fuel economy.
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
You said the thermostat is opening at 190F which means it's opening at too cold of a temperature than Chrysler intended. As the heater core draws heat from the engine directly, if the thermostat is opening too early the cold coolant from the radiator moves into the engine and further drops the 190F temperature of the coolant that is going to your heater core which is why you have a heat problem.

In my 2018 Caravan with the same engine it gets to full operating temperature from cold start after driving about 10-12 minutes at the current outdoor temperatures hovering around 30F. I don't get reasonable warm air until I hit 197F as per my electronic drivers information center coolant temperature reading.

When in traffic idling a lot the coolant will get as high as 220F at times and that is when I get really hot air coming out of the vents. (This is when the rad fan kicks on high and reduces it to 200F and then resumes low speed fan speed) They are designed to run this hot for better fuel atomization. Even my Journey ran this hot. (2 thermostat setup in that vehicle, but the hotter thermostat was 203F)

So if your thermostat is opening at 190F then this is why you have no heat because your system was designed with 203F in mind. It's also affecting your fuel economy.


+1
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
You said the thermostat is opening at 190F which means it's opening at too cold of a temperature than Chrysler intended. As the heater core draws heat from the engine directly, if the thermostat is opening too early the cold coolant from the radiator moves into the engine and further drops the 190F temperature of the coolant that is going to your heater core which is why you have a heat problem.

In my 2018 Caravan with the same engine it gets to full operating temperature from cold start after driving about 10-12 minutes at the current outdoor temperatures hovering around 30F. I don't get reasonable warm air until I hit 197F as per my electronic drivers information center coolant temperature reading.

When in traffic idling a lot the coolant will get as high as 220F at times and that is when I get really hot air coming out of the vents. (This is when the rad fan kicks on high and reduces it to 200F and then resumes low speed fan speed) They are designed to run this hot for better fuel atomization. Even my Journey ran this hot. (2 thermostat setup in that vehicle, but the hotter thermostat was 203F)

So if your thermostat is opening at 190F then this is why you have no heat because your system was designed with 203F in mind. It's also affecting your fuel economy.



Ignore 190 vs 203 for a minute. A new t-stat won't speed up the time it takes to get to 190F. The heat and everything are OK once the water temp hits 150F or so, it just takes forever to get there and if it isn't because the t-stat is stuck open, what else could possibly cause the engine to heat up so slow?
 
Thermostat could slowly start opening early. I don't think it'll just pop all the way open at once.
 
It is also common for them get sticky and close down only to a crack, not closed fully. That would of course delay warm up.

So this being a DIY repair forum, the obvious advice is to replace the [censored] thermostat, after a full discussion of which brand to buy.
 
Originally Posted by badtlc
Originally Posted by StevieC
You said the thermostat is opening at 190F which means it's opening at too cold of a temperature than Chrysler intended. As the heater core draws heat from the engine directly, if the thermostat is opening too early the cold coolant from the radiator moves into the engine and further drops the 190F temperature of the coolant that is going to your heater core which is why you have a heat problem.

In my 2018 Caravan with the same engine it gets to full operating temperature from cold start after driving about 10-12 minutes at the current outdoor temperatures hovering around 30F. I don't get reasonable warm air until I hit 197F as per my electronic drivers information center coolant temperature reading.

When in traffic idling a lot the coolant will get as high as 220F at times and that is when I get really hot air coming out of the vents. (This is when the rad fan kicks on high and reduces it to 200F and then resumes low speed fan speed) They are designed to run this hot for better fuel atomization. Even my Journey ran this hot. (2 thermostat setup in that vehicle, but the hotter thermostat was 203F)

So if your thermostat is opening at 190F then this is why you have no heat because your system was designed with 203F in mind. It's also affecting your fuel economy.



Ignore 190 vs 203 for a minute. A new t-stat won't speed up the time it takes to get to 190F. The heat and everything are OK once the water temp hits 150F or so, it just takes forever to get there and if it isn't because the t-stat is stuck open, what else could possibly cause the engine to heat up so slow?


I was just going based on you saying "The thermostat is opening/closing at 190F" and you verifying this
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It could be partially open before then or sticking open just enough that it slows the warm-up. You need it to be working 100% to get heat and for it to warm up quickly especially in our vans where they run the radiator fan all the time on slow and only kick it to high when the thermostat opens. This leaves the coolant in the radiator really cold so if it's leaking in via a partially stuck thermostat for example, it's a big problem and would contribute to the symptoms you describe.

Note: The radiator fan doesn't start on slow as soon as you start the vehicle but after a delay period as set by the ECM, It continues this between high-speed fan cycles there after.
 
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Originally Posted by mk378


So this being a DIY repair forum, the obvious advice is to replace the [censored] thermostat, after a full discussion of which brand to buy.


ha! I would hope MOPAR is the correct choice or I'm in trouble.
 
StevieC,

I assume it has been fairly cold up your way, right? Has it been below freezing much yet? If so, when your van is warmed up, does the water temp and gauge stay in one place or does the temp go up and down noticeably as you accelerate or coast?

Thanks for the insight.
 
It was around 32F in the last week before that it was about 45-50F fluctuating. I do a lot of miles in the day and sitting in traffic the coolant gauge will get just past the 1/2 way mark toward hot before coming back down to the center (220F to 200F) is the range as per my ScanGauge while this is taking place. On the highway the coolant will usually sit around 195F as per my scangauge and the gauge will be pegged right in the center. (It's a buffered gauge)

This is all the same regardless of outdoor temperature.

I can snap some pictures with my phone after the hour drive home from the market I'm working in today. That way you can see what it looks like good and hot.
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
It was around 32F in the last week before that it was about 45-50F fluctuating. I do a lot of miles in the day and sitting in traffic the coolant gauge will get just past the 1/2 way mark toward hot before coming back down to the center (220F to 200F) is the range as per my ScanGauge while this is taking place. On the highway the coolant will usually sit around 195F as per my scangauge and the gauge will be pegged right in the center. (It's a buffered gauge)

This is all the same regardless of outdoor temperature.

I can snap some pictures with my phone after the hour drive home from the market I'm working in today. That way you can see what it looks like good and hot.


No, that is enough information to be helpful. Mine doesn't quite behave that consistent. During hot weather, the needle sits almost exactly on the 1/2 mark and doesn't budge. During cold weather, the needle always sits below (on the cold side) of the 1/2 mark and moves up and down a bit but never gets to the 1/2 mark like it does when it is warmer outside.

I'll go ahead and replace the t-stat ($22 at local dealer) and see what happens.

Thanks everyone for the replies.
 
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