Air Flow Tests on Napa Gold, Amsoil,Jackson Racing,K&N, and Baldwin

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I took my OEM air filter out of my New SE-R at about 5000 miles. There was a dark stain (dirt) on the filter from the middle toward the intake in a cone shape. That pretty much tells me most of the air flow is in that area of the filter. So why do they make a square box paper filter.
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I tryed the AMSOIL filter for the next 3000 miles and I don't know if it was too oiled from the factory or what but my mileage fell,so I put in a NAPA Gold and it returned to normal. I still think a different type filter (shape)would do better in most cars than the square box type.
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It shouldn't matter very much. When the dark area gets too restrictive, the air will find further away areas of the filter to pass through.
 
what if you were to plumb 2 or even 3 airboxes with good paper air filters in them, so that you have alot more flow,plus better filtering? you can connect them as a "pitchfork" setup,where all 2 or 3 boxes endup connecting into the main intake.
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Anyone have any unacceptable UOA's while using a Amsoil, UNI, or other oil charged open cell foam air filter? As for cotten gauze, they were designed for racing (i.e. max air flow while keep the big stuff out). I am a bit surprised by the oil charged open cell foam filtration results. My OEM Honda dirt bike filter is an oil charged foam...
 
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Originally posted by cafasco:
Anyone have any unacceptable UOA's while using a Amsoil, UNI, or other oil charged open cell foam air filter? As for cotten gauze, they were designed for racing (i.e. max air flow while keep the big stuff out). I am a bit surprised by the oil charged open cell foam filtration results. My OEM Honda dirt bike filter is an oil charged foam...

Your dirt bike has to deal with water, mud, and lots of dirt, things that would easily and quickly clog a paper filter. Hence the oiled cell foam.

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Bob W.

Furor: n. A general commotion; public disorder or uproar. [Middle English furour, wrath, fury, from Old French fureur, from Latin furor, from furere, to rage.]
 
Cool test, now add some other real world variables -

Run all the filters after they have been wet soaked a few times.

Run all the tests at 10K miles on each filter (hard to do without a lab though)

If you have an old school round top air cleaner that the crankcase vents through the air filter, then also include the factor of engine blowby getting into the air filter as well. Paper does not do well in these instances either.

When new the K+N and oil foams will suck for effectiveness plain and simple compared to paper, and your experiment proved that. But only a few of us install new paper elements as often as oil changes I would imagine.........

Read my other post titled K+N and 225,000 miles. The K+N as expected will not be as effective as paper when new but - when they are dirty they will flow about the same as a new paper, and filter about the same as well - the difference is that this level for both flow and filtering doesn't change much more for the next many miles. I learned, they will last and work nearly forever

IF YOU DON'T TRY TO DEEP CLEAN THEM ALL THE TIME
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That IMHO is the number one problem with K+N, they suck when new, they are the best when dirty, but we as car nuts can't stop fiddling with them and can't stand the sight of a dirty black K+N, so we keep doing what we in fact should not be doing.

I now can, but it was like breaking a habit like smoking let me tell you. Read my other post, it includes pulling an engine apart after 225,000 miles that had the same "dirty" K+N for 12 years.

PS - I love this site
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The Donaldson Power Core filter is available for some industrial and trucking applications. It is OEM on all Ford 6.0 diesels and can be retro fitted to all 99-02 7.3 PSD's. I put one on my 01 PSD. For a stock to lightly modified engine, this seems to be the best compromise.

When available, I will use on my gas engines.

Donaldson Power Core Air Filter
 
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