3/8 torque wrench

[rtrdad]

I need a decent 3/8 torque wrench. I bought a Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight and I'm not a fan.
I want to try my hand an put my own timing belt on my Jetta 2.Slow and I need a decent wrench.
I have a a 1/2in SK that my father in law game me that is very nice but they are a bit pricey.
Any suggestions for a home use wrench? Thanks.

 

[benjamming]

Timing belt job usually requires > 100ft-lb which would lead toward a 1/2" drive with higher torque ability.
3/8" drive recommendation would be for a split beam from Precision Instruments perhaps model C2FR100F which are $120-$130.

 

[tig1]

My 3/8 TW from HF works very well. What's the problem with yours?

 

[Trav]

There are no high torque fasteners on this job for the 2.0 slow that I can remember. No need to remove the damper just the 4 bolts holding the pulley to the damper.
The plastic shields are just screws, the water pump is 10mm head (always replace the pump and use one with a metal impeller) then the tensioner bolt, for this you need a tool and a mirror to see the adjustment marks, it is usually tightened firmly with a box wrench with the tool in place. You really don't need a torque wrench for this job, nothing is greater than 35ftlb IIRC.
You will need to remove the front mount. There is a hole in the bell housing you will need to find the mark on the flywheel and mark it, use this to confirm the from crank mark.

https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH86...mp;psc=1&refRID=X8730HF44RDPB8HD5F8F

Pay attention to how this tensioner goes in, I have seen quite a few over the years in all wrong with the belt running tighter than a bow string.

This is a nice 3/8 up to 50ftlb, after that a 1/2 is preferable.

PRE-C2FR50F

 

[maxdustington]

DIY: Consumable cheap ones, I've already left my cheapie dialed in a few times.
Pro: Precision Instruments split beam, Snappy digital or NOS USA made on ebay. You don't need a torque wrench to do a belt on a 2.0, I didn't use one when I did it on my 2000 AEG and it didn't blow up.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Trav
You will need to remove the front mount. There is a hole in the bell housing you will need to find the mark on the flywheel and mark it, use this to confirm the from crank mark.
Mark and match method not good enough for you, Trav? I was so scared about misalignment that I just did the mark and match with nail polish.

 

[Trav]

I do it but the crank sprocket is easy to misjudge and the mark on the lower cover and pulley is gone when you remove it. Usually its no problem but one tooth off and screwed up tensioner installation are common when done under the shade tree. Using the flywheel mark for verification and cam sprocket mark is safe and preferable IMO.
10 extra min is cheaper than bent valves (on interference engines).

 

[Vern_in_IL]

I really like the old Craftsman "clickers" you can use as a ratchet and torque is preset on handle dial.

Similar is the The Norbar 15007 Micrometer Adjustable Torque "click" Wrench

 

[TheLawnRanger]

I use the HF torque wrench and mine works well. It's not for everyone. That's one of the great things about living in the U.S.A. (and Canada), You can get the one that works for you. I would also like the type Vern in IL mentioned.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Up here, Canadian Tire carries Mastercraft which I use quite a bit.

My 3/8 is a Mastercraft and my 1/2 inch is a Sears. Both are clickers.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by Vern_in_IL
I really like the old Craftsman "clickers" you can use as a ratchet and torque is preset on handle dial.

Similar is the The Norbar 15007 Micrometer Adjustable Torque "click" Wrench


The big advantage split beams have over clickers is you don't need to zero them after use and they stay in adjustment much longer, they also ratchet. Setting them is also a lot easier just slide the adjust up or down, not turning a knob or handle which can go out of adjustment while in use if you are not careful.
I am not saying anyone should throw the old clicker out but if starting from scratch or replacing a duff unit a clicker is not the way to go.

 

[dawgn86]

Got this Sears Craftsman 1/2" digital for $59.00.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I had ordered this one from Tekton when I was looking.

https://www.tekton.com/click-style-...size=3-8-in&torque-range=10-80-ft-lb

 

[Trav]

Not bad for the money, at least its made in Taiwan.

 

[E365]

I have that Tekton 3/8", and their 1/4". I'm a fan. Good combination of quality and price. Not junk, but also not crazy expensive.

 

[mobilaltima]

For torque wrenches, I only use Snap On clickers and split beams. Although they must be wound down after every use, I much prefer the clickers over the split beams, as the clickers go in 1 pound increments, versus the 3/8 snap on split beam in 2 pound increments and the 1/2 drive in 5 pound increments. I'm a stickler for torque specs and in that case sometimes the split beams are useless, like when something has a spec of 31 foot pounds for example, I cant use the split beam with its 2 pound even number increments.

 

[dawgn86]

Originally Posted by E365
I have that Tekton 3/8", and their 1/4". I'm a fan. Good combination of quality and price. Not junk, but also not crazy expensive.


agree on the Tekton..I have the 1/4" and it works really well.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted by mobilaltima
For torque wrenches, I only use Snap On clickers and split beams. Although they must be wound down after every use, I much prefer the clickers over the split beams, as the clickers go in 1 pound increments, versus the 3/8 snap on split beam in 2 pound increments and the 1/2 drive in 5 pound increments. I'm a stickler for torque specs and in that case sometimes the split beams are useless, like when something has a spec of 31 foot pounds for example, I cant use the split beam with its 2 pound even number increments.

Engineers claim that the bolt tightening process using a torque wrench has an accuracy of about +/- 20% to 30% . With this in mind, it seems that the increment differences that you mention would be moot. The same principle applies when comparing a wrench that has 3% accuracy vs. one with 4% accuracy.

http://www.surebolt.com/torque_errors.htm

 

[Trav]

No not junk, the made in Taiwan stuff is pretty decent for the price. Its a shame Loews stopped selling the made in USA ones, they were a good deal.

 

[EdwardC]

I have the 3/8" Precision Instruments split beam that Trav mentioned, great torque wrench for my use. I like not needing to wind them down after use. My primary use is wheel nuts after rotations, so it's convenient to just leave it at that general setting.