Oil Rec for Audi A4 2.0T TFSI

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Cardiobuck

Cardiobuck

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Ohio
So....
At 10,000 miles my A4 had it's first oil change and I used Redline 5w-40 because I assumed it's Noack volatility of 6% would help with intake valve deposits that these DI engines are known to have.
One thing I don't like about this oil is how long it takes to achieve operating temperature in my car. On a cold fall morning (45F) I'm 10 minutes into the drive before the oil touches 140F and it reaches 190F 22 minutes in just as I'm pulling into the parking garage.

I just ordered Redline 5w-30--I plan on 5,000 mile OCI and figured the lower 40C viscosity would be better for winter use.

In all of this I completely forgot to figure in TEOST testing results and how that might hurt intake deposit formation. Redline has poor TEOST results even though Noack volatility is very good. I really would like to avoid having the intake valves walnut blasted every 40,000 miles. I am actually considering not using the very expensive oil I just ordered for fear of deposit accumulation. Does anyone here have experience with Audi/VW engines and oil choices that could possibly reduce intake valve deposits?

I do feel stupid in trying to out-think the manufacturer. Perhaps I should just use Castrol Professional as they recommend? Audi allows for any oil meeting 502.00 or 504.00 spec.
 
IIRC the Audi version of the 2.0T has direct and port injectors, so that should keep carbon deposits away. I might be totally wrong and if so I'm a firm believer in spirited driving to get the temps nice and hot. It seems your commute it doesn't get that warm, or you're not driving it hard enough. I can typically reach oil temps of 215 within 15 minutes of driving, but I do have a mountain to climb. The latest gen 2.0T is leaps beyond when it first came out. Now when it's about 15*F out temps never seem to get above 190, but I rarely drive in the winter.

As far as oil choices I've always used Castrol Edge 0w40 in my VW's, as do alot of people. M1 0w40 used to be popular as well before their reformulation, as far as that goes someone else will have to list specifics.
 
Originally Posted by Delta
IIRC the Audi version of the 2.0T has direct and port injectors, so that should keep carbon deposits away.


Unfortunately, and to my dismay, the version we get in North America only has DI. If you buy one in Europe, it has both port and DI. My guess is better consumer protections in Europe make the manufacturer pay for the walnut blasting while they get away with the customer paying for it here. Thus why spend the money to give us the better version.
 
After my first free dealership change i've used Castrol 0w-40 and Ravenol RUP 5w-40 and Ravenol SSL 0w-40.
 
My wife owns a 2015 Audi A4 quattro and I own a 2013 GTI which uses a similar engine. We both bought our cars new.

If you are concerned about intake valve deposits, you should be using a low saps oil such as the VW 504 spec.

Despite what you've read, NOACK means squat when it comes to intake valve deposits. Ash content does.

Some oil will get onto the valves by design through the valve guides.

I cleaned my intake valves at around 82K. It is not that hard of a job.
I only cleaned them because I had to replace the intake manifold on my GTI because the secondaries quit opening for high RPM power.
My car wasn't any faster or slower before and after cleaning them.
 
Shouldn't your first change have been at 5,000 miles, or has Audi removed that recommendation?

In any case, I'd follow the factory service schedule with an approved oil.
 
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Shouldn't your first change have been at 5,000 miles, or has Audi removed that recommendation?


They have removed it. Service intervals are every 10,000 miles with no deviation for removing FF. I plan to change the oil every 5,000 miles and do all other maintenance on the schedule they prescribe.
I am leaning toward Amsoil 5w-30 European Car Formula Improved ESP, it meets VW 504.00
 
Redline is very good oil. I think you are overthinking the intake valve deposits. Is your car burning oil? Like - turning oil into vapor and sending it through the PCV system? It's a brand new vehicle. You would notice excessive oil consumption.
 
I heard theres people on the internet who have had success with cruising on the highway in a low gear, high rpm to get the engine nice and hot for an ocasional long drive. Doing this every so often was supposed to burn the crud off the intake valves rather than the manual cleaning. I would look into that.
 
With DI engines, the most impactful thing you can do to reduce intake valve deposits is to change the oil often. With that being said, I would find the best value oil that meets the approval you need (502 or 504) and change it frequently... something like M1 or Castrol 0W-40. No need to spend extra on Redline when changing frequently.

Additionally, Redline has a TON of moly in it, which has been shown to increase intake valve deposits.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by skyactiv
you should be using a low saps oil such as the VW 504 spec.


There are a few 0W30 that come with the 504 rating eg PP EURO LX and M1 ESP X.
 
I'm not saying this is the best, but it has worked well for me over the last few years on my GLI with the gen 3 ea888. I change oil and filter element every 5k miles. For oil I use 5 liters of Motul 8100 X-Clean+ in 5w30 (VW504 and MB229.51 as well as other pretty stringent ones) and I add half a liter of Motul 300v 5w40 (car takes 5.5L and I got the 300v cheap a few years ago). It takes me about 13-14 months to hit 5k miles, so it works for me. The car doesn't burn a drop between changes and the filter element always looks lightly used. I haven't peeped into the engine, so it may look like every other gen3 on whatever oil, who knows...
 
Originally Posted by Cardiobuck
So....
At 10,000 miles my A4 had it's first oil change and I used Redline 5w-40 because I assumed it's Noack volatility of 6% would help with intake valve deposits that these DI engines are known to have.
One thing I don't like about this oil is how long it takes to achieve operating temperature in my car. On a cold fall morning (45F) I'm 10 minutes into the drive before the oil touches 140F and it reaches 190F 22 minutes in just as I'm pulling into the parking garage.

I just ordered Redline 5w-30--I plan on 5,000 mile OCI and figured the lower 40C viscosity would be better for winter use.

In all of this I completely forgot to figure in TEOST testing results and how that might hurt intake deposit formation. Redline has poor TEOST results even though Noack volatility is very good. I really would like to avoid having the intake valves walnut blasted every 40,000 miles. I am actually considering not using the very expensive oil I just ordered for fear of deposit accumulation. Does anyone here have experience with Audi/VW engines and oil choices that could possibly reduce intake valve deposits?

I do feel stupid in trying to out-think the manufacturer. Perhaps I should just use Castrol Professional as they recommend? Audi allows for any oil meeting 502.00 or 504.00 spec.

1. That Redline 5W40 is NOT approved oil for VW. Redline claims that it meets and exceeds requirements, but it does not as Redline developed another 5W40 oil for approval, and it is mediocre at best.
2. Same goes for 5W30 Redline.
3. AMsoil has one 5W30 that is approved for VW504.00/507.00. Looks pretty good on paper.
4. I would personally go to local Wal mart and get Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40.
5. If you really want low NOACK and SAPS get Mobil1 ESP 5W30.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Quick double check, you didn't get the Ultra of the engine, right?


No. Its the 252 hp, 273 lb/ft version
 
I appreciate the feedback from everyone.

After much deliberation I decided to go with Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30. It is a VW 504.00 approved oil. I plan 5,000 mile OCI (and MANN filters). I will send UOA when the time comes.
Thanks to all.
 
Originally Posted by Cardiobuck
I appreciate the feedback from everyone.

After much deliberation I decided to go with Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30. It is a VW 504.00 approved oil. I plan 5,000 mile OCI (and MANN filters). I will send UOA when the time comes.
Thanks to all.

Why would you choose that oil?
 
edyvw,

I chose it because I really wanted an oil with the VW 504.00 approval. Most of the Castrol I saw was 502.00 and the Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 was not locally available IIRC. I can get anything online but I decided for the time to choose from what was physically on hand in town.

I know Audi/VW are really big on Castrol but I can't decide if that is because it's really that good or they were just the lowest bidder. I'm an old Honda guy and I don't think for a minute that when Honda switched to ConocoPhillips from Mobil 1 that Conoco was better, they just won the bid.

I tend to see a lot of feedback on BITOG about how much money one could save with this or that brand. I find this to be a strange argument. Clearly if I just wanted to be the most cost efficient then I would have nothing to do with Audi. I would be proudly pouring Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 into my Toyota Camry and showing off my 8ppm Iron reading at the annual oil change.

Do you think the Liqui Moly is a poor fit?
 
Originally Posted by Cardiobuck
edyvw,

I chose it because I really wanted an oil with the VW 504.00 approval. Most of the Castrol I saw was 502.00 and the Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 was not locally available IIRC. I can get anything online but I decided for the time to choose from what was physically on hand in town.

I know Audi/VW are really big on Castrol but I can't decide if that is because it's really that good or they were just the lowest bidder. I'm an old Honda guy and I don't think for a minute that when Honda switched to ConocoPhillips from Mobil 1 that Conoco was better, they just won the bid.

I tend to see a lot of feedback on BITOG about how much money one could save with this or that brand. I find this to be a strange argument. Clearly if I just wanted to be the most cost efficient then I would have nothing to do with Audi. I would be proudly pouring Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 into my Toyota Camry and showing off my 8ppm Iron reading at the annual oil change.

Do you think the Liqui Moly is a poor fit?

Liqui Moly is good fit as it meets VW504.00/507. Personally I think it is mediocre oil among those that meet VW504.00/507.00 standard. Liqui Moly's pitch is Made in Germany. Use it with confidence, but Mobil1 ESP 5W30 and some other oils would be my choice. Amsoil has approved VW504.00/507.00 that looks very good on paper. However, in that engine you can use VW502.00 with no issues, and Castrol 0W40 would be my choice if I owned that car. I use it in my Tiguan which has 1st gen EA888 and it is more prone to CBU than yours.
 
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