Finding a new mechanic

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AZjeff

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We recently moved to a new, bigger town. Our '02 Xterra has an RMS leak that hasn't been healed by any of the fix in a bottle elixirs so I'm considering having it replaced. With few new acquaintances to ask about reputable mechs here I decided to google "independent auto mechanic" and picked the top 3 nearby based on customer feedback. The first closest place was obviously a 1 or 2 man shop, an engine on the floor, bit of clutter on the benches etc. No front room help so the owner took the info, got on his computer and quoted me $900. I have no frame of reference but that seemed a bit high. 2nd shop was a bit more performance oriented, lifted truck with logo, the owner/mech had full sleeves and a trendy bro haircut but was polite and interested, got on his computer and quoted me $750. 3rd shop was a bigger operation with a counter guy and 4 or 5 bays with windows in the waiting area. Plaques on the wall indicated shop of the year for a number of years. I told the counter guy my info and he told me it could be RMS or oil pan leak, got on his computer and quoted me $1300 to fix both. I said I wanted fixed what was wrong and likely it was one or the other not both. $750 for the RMS, or $550 for the oil pan. All these shops had 4.5/5 ratings from many customer reviews. Only the 3rd shop had work ongoing, at the first 2 the mech was on the phone or tending the counter. Are these shops all using the same job estimating program? Does anyone do actual time + materials anymore? My previous indy mechanic was a 1 man op who was a bit more expensive that other shops but highly trusted and always busy. I have no idea which shop here I'd choose. The RMS leak isn't critical but it's annoying and I'll likely get it fixed. The Xterra is in great condition and probably only worth $4500 so $750 feels like a lot to spend on it even if we keep it for a while longer.

Any ideas on how to find a trustworthy shop appreciated.
 
2wd or 4wd....Makes a big difference on labor.

Actual Time? How do you expect someone to quote the actual time it takes to do the job BEFORE they do it? Your most likely better off with the estimated book time as it's an average time it took to complete the job on a NEW vehicle in a controlled setting.
 
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Might have to talk to some of the locals to see their thoughts...otherwise-I would go based on your gut.

Shops and good people like Trav are hard to find now....
 
Toward the end of a vehicle's life you can spend a good percentage of the vehicle's value on repairs that are not too complex. I would go with shop 1 or 2 myself. Go into NAPA and ask around. I like to bring my own parts in since I am picky about the quality of the part and while they might be able to order the same part I bring in, it would not be in stock at a local parts store. Not all shops will let you bring in parts.

These days I value quality of the work and honesty over the absolute cheapest price.

It does not hurt to have 2 trusted indy mechanics.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Toward the end of a vehicle's life you can spend a good percentage of the vehicle's value on repairs that are not too complex. I would go with shop 1 or 2 myself. Go into NAPA and ask around. I like to bring my own parts in since I am picky about the quality of the part and while they might be able to order the same part I bring in, it would not be in stock at a local parts store. Not all shops will let you bring in parts.

These days I value quality of the work and honesty over the absolute cheapest price.

It does not hurt to have 2 trusted indy mechanics.



Very good post here by Donald.. I too have two trusted independent mechanics. They are really great. One of them I've have been knowing for 16 plus years.
 
Originally Posted by AZjeff
Are these shops all using the same job estimating program?
For their sake, they probably should be. If not, how can they stay competitive with each other if they're using inaccurate and different time estimates ?
Originally Posted by AZjeff
Does anyone do actual time + materials anymore?
You really want to go that route ? If "the book" says 2-1/2 hours, most shops you pay for 2-1/2 hours whether it takes them 45 minutes or 5 hours. If it does take less time, well, it's best that you, I, or others don't know this although I used to use a shop that would end up billing for the actual time. You're willing to pay for longer than "it should take" (by the book) ?
 
I'm not implying anything about using book rate vs time and materials, just trying to understand how shops operate. It's interesting that the shop with the lowest apparent operating cost based on size, location, visible equipment, presentation was the highest and the other 2 with a more professional appearance but obvious different volume of work and business model were $150 less and within a few dollars. They all have lots of satisfied customers and would likely all do the job correctly

Some of my difficulty with this is I can't remember paying $750 on a car repair before. We usually own vehicles that just don't need costly repairs and the ones that needed bigger stuff like a clutch & T/O bearing in a Jeep and a tranny swap in the Samurai my son did with me assisting in his or my garage. I don't have him anymore and this is the first time I have to have something like this fixed by a shop.
 
Taking a cheap old truck to a shop and paying to fix it gets expensive quick. You might consider just keep adding oil rather than fixing it right now lol.
 
Originally Posted by AZjeff
I'm not implying anything about using book rate vs time and materials, just trying to understand how shops operate. It's interesting that the shop with the lowest apparent operating cost based on size, location, visible equipment, presentation was the highest and the other 2 with a more professional appearance but obvious different volume of work and business model were $150 less and within a few dollars. They all have lots of satisfied customers and would likely all do the job correctly

Some of my difficulty with this is I can't remember paying $750 on a car repair before. We usually own vehicles that just don't need costly repairs and the ones that needed bigger stuff like a clutch & T/O bearing in a Jeep and a tranny swap in the Samurai my son did with me assisting in his or my garage. I don't have him anymore and this is the first time I have to have something like this fixed by a shop.


2wd or 4wd? Your past experiences & expectations of cost are irrelevant.
 
Labor time for the rear main seal is 7.1 hours. I assume yours is a 4wd Automatic.

That market price for that job would be about $1100-$1200 out here. The seal lists for $41 and you can usually expect at least a 50% markup on the part. Labor rates in my area are $150-$180/hr.

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8 hours x $80 = at the bare minimum, $640 around here - -

plus there's ALWAYS added shop fees, disposal fees, etc etc

so at least $700-$750 if you bring in the part - if they will let you
 
They are quoting using the same book times.

Are you sure the scope of work is the same? For instance if it is a stick did shop one add a clutch to the parts?

Based on what you said, I'd be likely to choose shop 1 or 2... you didn't say if 1 was also polite and interested...
 
I'd pick number two. And I would not normally supply the part. Allow the shop to have their margin and then there's also no issues with fitment or initial warranty.
 
What I used to do when selecting bids-

With nothing else to go on like local recommendations, shop experience with that make and its known problems/failures, etc.- disregard the highest quote because the guy is greedy and the low guy doesn't know what he's doing. Pick the middle quote.
 
Talk is cheap and what you see is not always what it appears to be.
Like getting a contractor to do a big job on your house. You can read all you want but you never know
how things are going to go down until they are a few days into the job. The sad reality of it all.

I avoid big talkers. A real pro that does it daily may give you the blow off because he doesn't have to thrill you with lingo.
He does it often and like many it is a routine to him and not very exciting. Sometimes you just have to take a leap in faith,
 
Fast, cheap, good, pick any two.

They all gave you the time of day, so consider yourself lucky there's enough mechanics to have competition.

Kids these days don't want to get their hands dirty. Any of these guys could be doing less challenging work.
 
That is a bit of work given their is probably exhaust in the way, etc. Has this always been an Arizona truck? That should help from having to replace rusted stuff. Is the leak that bad? I'd be inclined to do a good PCV system clean to keep crankcase pressure as low as possible and run 15w40 or heavier oil in it to maybe try to slow the leaking.
 
Originally Posted by twouvakind
Just for kicks, roll into a Nissan dealer and see what they would charge and "own" their repair.


That's what I would do. Hit up the Nissan dealership.
 
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