Your favorite motor flush

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I also run some Kreen every 5 OCI's these days. For example, in the small versa sump, I have about 4 ounces in there now. I usually run it towards the end of my OCI and keep it in there for a few hundred miles before my oil change.
 
Amsoil engine/transmission flush. No solvents just strong detergents and dispersants. Safe to use every change as well.
 
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I tried the Amsoil stuff out of curiosity and sorry to say that while Amsoil makes some really great products this one misses the mark by a barn door.
I have no problem trying product on engines that need it because of neglect, as a maintenance product in an engine that has a regular (not extended) OCI I usually don't bother.

If an engine is known to be hard on the oil its best IMO to actually shorten the OCI to 3-4K to insure it doesn't start forming varnish and deposits, varnish for many engines is not just a cosmetic staining, it can and does cause finely fitted hydraulic components to stick and malfunction that can turn into very expensive repairs or even catastrophic failure down the road.
 
Trav,

I used it my MILs CRV before we moved her from yearly conventional changes to Amsoil yearly changes and it did remove junk from her engine and filled up the filter with globules of gunk afterward so it does work.
 
Sea Foam : 1 oz. per qrt.. of vehicle oil crank case capacity then run for 100 ~ 300 miles max and changing oil when oil becomes darker .
Even a good oil can leave deposits , so no harm in using Sea Foam as directed just before an oil change every 25K miles or so ...
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
Trav,

I used it my MILs CRV before we moved her from yearly conventional changes to Amsoil yearly changes and it did remove junk from her engine and filled up the filter with globules of gunk afterward so it does work.


I can only call it as I see it. These types of flushes be it from Amsoil, Lubeguard, etc are among the least effective I have come across. Starting out with a new vehicle with today's engine oils you should never need to use a flush,
 
Not at all conclusive, but I had some sheets of hard varnish under the valve gear before the current fill (which has been in about 6 years) and they seem to have gone.

Pictures

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4884848/1

Roughly 1:1 mix of CPC SAE 40 and Mobil MX 15W40. I'm pretty sure the CPC will be group 1, dunno about the Delvac (I think I've seen Mobil quoted as describing it as a "quality conventional oil") but I'd imagine it'll be pretty high in detergent. Perhaps a happy combination?
 
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Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by gotnogunk
New motor, take care of it, no flush needed. Old Motor ??? ATF.

What does ATF do?


It helps to operate an automatic transmission........... I think................
wink.gif
 
I've always substituted a quart of ATF at every change, use Pennzoil and the largest Wix filter that will fit. That's how my.Dad always did it, worked.well.for.him.
Engines always stay clean and I never have noisy lifters.
 
Originally Posted by CEFox
I've always substituted a quart of ATF at every change, use Pennzoil and the largest Wix filter that will fit. That's how my.Dad always did it, worked.well.for.him.
Engines always stay clean and I never have noisy lifters.



Hmmm. What a worthless post.
 
I took the top off my 6.0 Lq9 for knock sensor repair last year. Oil used is Mobil 1 5w30 for the last 100k. Its so clean you can see the factory writing on the block. So agree with others that say a good quality syn is all you need to keep the engine spotless.

20160513_1414061.jpg
 
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