generator

Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
That's a rather high capacity unit as far as portable gas powered generators go. Are you sure you need that much power for emergencies? What's the capacity of the current one?


I'm running the whole house on an 8k generator right now. I want the ability to run the well pump an the a/c or heat as well as lights and cooking! 8k seems about right so far.


Okay - I can see that you know what you are doing. Wouldn't a stationary whole house unit make sense for your application? Propane fuel would make a lot of sense for you since it never goes bad. A water cooled diesel might be easier on your ears too. More money for either? Yes. Peace of mind? Priceless!
 
During outages, I usually use two generators.

One is a 3250 watt Powermate with a Honda GX240 clone. I use it to power lights, the fridges, and a space heater if it's cold out.

The second generator is a 7500 watt Ariens with a real Honda GX390. I use this one to power all of the above and also the well pump or hot water heater as needed.

The Powermate uses considerably less fuel and is quieter, so it is the one that sits there and putters away most of the time during outages.
 
Last edited:
I also use two smaller units. A cheap little HFT 2-stroke ~800 watt unit for lights and misc items, then I have a old Coleman Powermate suitcase ~1400watt unit for a space heater, etc. If I had to run A/C, these wouldn't work. Like said, the problem is supplying them with fuel. I always had good intentions of keeping some 5gal fuel cans in storage and rotate them out between OPE and vehicles to keep them fresh, but I've never done it. I'd be SOL during a lengthy power outage where you couldn't get to a gas station.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
That's a rather high capacity unit as far as portable gas powered generators go. Are you sure you need that much power for emergencies? What's the capacity of the current one?


I'm running the whole house on an 8k generator right now. I want the ability to run the well pump an the a/c or heat as well as lights and cooking! 8k seems about right so far.


Okay - I can see that you know what you are doing. Wouldn't a stationary whole house unit make sense for your application? Propane fuel would make a lot of sense for you since it never goes bad. A water cooled diesel might be easier on your ears too. More money for either? Yes. Peace of mind? Priceless!



I've thought about it. But i like the idea of portability. I worry about natural gas working properly at near 0 temps.

I might could get away with a 7500. but i'm not sure fuel savings would be different.
 
Natural gas != propane. One you have a tank of at your house, the other comes in a pipe from the street, and can be cut off during emergencies. I'd get a factory tri-fuel generator as I personally am having some issues with my propane conversion (even though I love the idea).

I would wait for these hurricanes to blow over (pardon the pun) so we can return to sale pricing.

And I'd get a window AC or two to run off the generator. If they are undersized and running constantly they'll efficiently cut the humidity even if the heat creeps up a little, and you can get by with a lot less generator. Close the bedroom door and sleep in relative peace.

I also love my manual transfer switch, get to engage six circuits, one-at-a-time.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino

I would wait for these hurricanes to blow over (pardon the pun) so we can return to sale pricing.



I also love my manual transfer switch, get to engage six circuits, one-at-a-time.



Oh i'm waiting till spring or so. just planning for what model i want. My current generator is a 20 year old generac powerboss 8000/10000. It just ran about 14 hours this go round. It runs fine, but it has no load control. it just runs wide open all the time. Its a vanguard 18hp so it has too much motor and does burn a lot of fuel.

I'm a super manual transfer! I'm back feeding the panel with the mains off.
 
Last edited:
No load control? So over 3600 RPM?

I had a sticky governor on a 1970s Mite-E-lite, it was lame hearing the fridge wind up and down.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted by eljefino
No load control? So over 3600 RPM?

I had a sticky governor on a 1970s Mite-E-lite, it was lame hearing the fridge wind up and down.
laugh.gif



I'm guessing around that, but runs at one speed regardless of load. Its old. Might be older than 20 years.It only runs wide open, i think is was designed that way.

Looks like this.

7954180_0.jpg


7954181_0.jpg
 
Last edited:
HF sold an awful generator a while back that was based on a motorcycle magneto. The spark gizmo rev-limited it to 3600 RPM so the instructions literally said to run it wide open with the load, and adjust the throttle until it stopped missing.

I can see why you'd want to upgrade. My $200 AVR 2500 watter is heavenly.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino


I can see why you'd want to upgrade. My $200 AVR 2500 watter is heavenly.


I forgot to mention the other reason to upgrade, the muffler is in great shape but the thing is so loud! Its always been loud. I want a newer one that will reduce fuel use under less load and not be so loud. Plus i'm thinking the newer ones will have cleaner a/c power.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by eljefino


I can see why you'd want to upgrade. My $200 AVR 2500 watter is heavenly.


I forgot to mention the other reason to upgrade, the muffler is in great shape but the thing is so loud! Its always been loud. I want a newer one that will reduce fuel use under less load and not be so loud. Plus i'm thinking the newer ones will have cleaner a/c power.



A lot of the noise isn't exhaust related on these. Any portable generator that's not packed in a noise reducing case/housing is going to be loud.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Oh i'm waiting till spring or so. just planning for what model i want. My current generator is a 20 year old generac powerboss 8000/10000. It just ran about 14 hours this go round. It runs fine, but it has no load control. it just runs wide open all the time. Its a vanguard 18hp so it has too much motor and does burn a lot of fuel.
I'm a super manual transfer! I'm back feeding the panel with the mains off.


Two things: First, your generator runs at a constant 3600 RPM in order to supply 60 Hz power. Only the more expensive inverter generators run at variable speeds. These tend to be smaller units than what you have, optimized for camping.

Second, it is never a good idea to back feed through at drier outlet. I'll cut you some slack if you have some sort of manual interlock switch that forces you to shut off the main breaker ( and they do make these...) but you are running the risk of backfeeding into the utility grid and possibly killing some poor guy up on a pole trying to restore your service.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy


Second, it is never a good idea to back feed through at drier outlet. I'll cut you some slack if you have some sort of manual interlock switch that forces you to shut off the main breaker ( and they do make these...) but you are running the risk of backfeeding into the utility grid and possibly killing some poor guy up on a pole trying to restore your service.



I am very aware of not powering the lines. I check twice each time to make sure my mains are off. I actually back feed through a 220 outet for my welder/air compressor in the garage. It's 6g wire run back to the panel. I am aware of the danger as well. I'm the only one who will be connecting and disconnecting this.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy


Second, it is never a good idea to back feed through at drier outlet. I'll cut you some slack if you have some sort of manual interlock switch that forces you to shut off the main breaker ( and they do make these...) but you are running the risk of backfeeding into the utility grid and possibly killing some poor guy up on a pole trying to restore your service.



I am very aware of not powering the lines. I check twice each time to make sure my mains are off. I actually back feed through a 220 outet for my welder/air compressor in the garage. It's 6g wire run back to the panel. I am aware of the danger as well. I'm the only one who will be connecting and disconnecting this.


Doesn't matter. Don't be a tight wad and buy a transfer switch. You can say you check it every time but it only takes one screw up to kill someone. Don't give the "I know what I am doing" line either. There is a reason they call the cords people cobble together to do this suicide cords.

Stuff like this is why electricians have to put up such a massive amount of rules. It can be fine 99% of the time but the one time it goes wrong people die.

Sorry for the soap box but this stuff bothers me.
 
I do appreciate both you guys passion for the safety aspect.

Are there whole house transfer switches? If i did a transfer switch , i don't want a 10 circuit job. I want the whole house. Certainly i don't run everthing at once, but i want power available everywhere. If i am correct, 220/240 appliances would take up 2 slots of a 10 circuit panel, that won't do.
 
FWIW...I have a Westinghouse similar to that but not exactly and it has a Chonda engine. I've had it for 3 years and it has about 150 hours on it and it's been flawless. Starts right up and it's smooth with nice smooth power delivery. No issues with electronics. It powers the fridge, kitchen, TV room, satellite, master bedroom and boiler. When not used for power outages I start if once per month and put a load on it for 20 mins. Is it a Honda? Nope...but a Honda that puts out 8000W continuously was also 4x as much.

Also...I have a manual transfer switch under the breaker box - wasn't much to put in and it's piece of mind. Not sure about this one but had to crack open the generator to remove a jumper to make it safe to use for feeding a home vs free standing on a job site.

As far as Chonda engines....I also have one on my snowblower that's 8 years old and the unit gets a heavy workout every year here - long driveway that's up a steep hill and lots of snow here. It too has been flawless. So far I have no beef with Chonda engines and they're often found on units that are significantly less expensive than units with Honda engines. [censored], I just want to things to run and so far I've had no issues.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by JTK
There's no way I'd pay over a grand for a portable generator like this unless it was a Honda.


Really? A Honda generator that puts out that kind of power is $5-6k. For someone who uses a generator for the occasional power outage to pay 5-6x is crazy. Use it every day on a job site then I get it. Most people can go years without losing power.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
I do appreciate both you guys passion for the safety aspect.

Are there whole house transfer switches? If i did a transfer switch , i don't want a 10 circuit job. I want the whole house. Certainly i don't run everthing at once, but i want power available everywhere. If i am correct, 220/240 appliances would take up 2 slots of a 10 circuit panel, that won't do.

There are whole house manual transfer switches and there are fairly inexpensive interlock kits for about every panel out there. Transfer switches are pricey. The interlock kits simply interlock a breaker backfed from your generator with the main breaker in the panel. Cheap insurance.
 
I bought this guy a year ago and broke it out for the first time a week ago when hurricane Michael knocked out power for 4 days. https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/100296-7500-watt-dual-fuel-generator/ It seems to be a good little generator so far. It runs on both propane and gas. I tried both with positive results. Electric and pull start. $850 @ TSC, $750 @ Amazon. They also have an 8kW model and some smaller ones.
 
Back
Top