Escape Audio Question - Bass Blockers?

[dogememe]

My sub install is done. Spliced into factory wiring behind factory head unit, wires run to an AudioControl LC2i line output converter, to an NVX monoblock amp, to my Pioneer 12" subwoofer. I have PLENTY of bass... All the plastic in the car, door panels, literally everything rattles. Ford quality!

ANYWAY the factory head unit is still sending full range to the door speakers, but I want to stop them from producing bass. Obviously the best solution is a 4 channel amp with a HPF to power them but that's a lot of money and work.

I found "bass blockers" online. Inexpensive and small, I could wire them inline with the speakers. I think it's just a little capacitor. Are these OK?

 

[uc50ic4more]

If the "lot of money and work" is not a viable option, bass blockers will be fine. Given that it is indeed pretty much a simple capacitor inline, I'd have a question or two about phase non-linearity; but also given that you're in a vehicle, those hairs needn't be split.

 

[DriveHard]

They work as advertised. I have used them in several budget installs.

 

[DriveHard]

I would measure the factory speakers as well...they are not always the normal 4-ohms like you might think, and the resistance of the speaker changes the cut-off point of the capacitor you are choosing.

 

[14Accent]

Bass blockers are ok, but not great. Why not do something like I did, I used an Alpine in-line amplifier and used readily available aftermarket connectors to build a plug and play amplifier. It's small enough to tuck behind the dash. It also has an HPF, which I set at 60 hz for my front speakers and 120 hz for my rears.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by DriveHard
I would measure the factory speakers as well...they are not always the normal 4-ohms like you might think, and the resistance of the speaker changes the cut-off point of the capacitor you are choosing.

Simply using a multimeter to check resistance is a good way to check ohms or I have to do something else? Thanks.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by 14Accent
Bass blockers are ok, but not great. Why not do something like I did, I used an Alpine in-line amplifier and used readily available aftermarket connectors to build a plug and play amplifier. It's small enough to tuck behind the dash. It also has an HPF, which I set at 60 hz for my front speakers and 120 hz for my rears.

It was [censored] tapping into four wires for my line output converter if I have to mess with that anymore I am putting in an aftermarket head unit... But I would lose steering wheel controls because the module for that is EXPENSIVE!

 

[14Accent]

Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Bass blockers are ok, but not great. Why not do something like I did, I used an Alpine in-line amplifier and used readily available aftermarket connectors to build a plug and play amplifier. It's small enough to tuck behind the dash. It also has an HPF, which I set at 60 hz for my front speakers and 120 hz for my rears.

It was [censored] tapping into four wires for my line output converter if I have to mess with that anymore I am putting in an aftermarket head unit... But I would lose steering wheel controls because the module for that is EXPENSIVE!



Fair enough. I didn't find it terribly difficult, you can wire everything on the comfort of your couch and plug it into the head unit when you're ready. Personally, I would rather do that than spend the time pulling all 4 door panels and wiring in caps. But, bass blockers are a close runner up. Since your Escape has 6x8 speakers in each door, I would suggest crossing them at 80hz. A 500uF capacitor should be perfect.

https://www.parts-express.com/500uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-378

You'll need 4. Simply splice them in line with the positive wire on each speaker and you're good to go.

 

[dogememe]

Haha I had to splice into the factory harness behind the head unit which has no slack on it. Plus the shifter had to be in L to get it out of the way to have the head unit pushed forward to get my arm in there so I got to listen to the key in door open chime for 30 minutes or boil in a hot car with no breeze lol. I should have just taken the 2 minutes to disconnect the climate control connectors and take it out entirely for easier access but I sorta so everything the hard way it seems...

Anyway thanks for the link... How did you calculate that capacitor value?

 

[14Accent]

https://www.parts-express.com/resources-crossover-component-selection-guide

That's what I used when I was building my system. You want to use the first column in the first chart. It only goes down to 500 hz, but you just move the decimal of the capacitor value one to the right for ever decimal you move left on the frequency.

Example: 700hz would be a 56.85uF capacitor. For 70hz, it would be a 568.5 uF. Therefore a 500uF capacitor should but you right around 80hz.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by 14Accent
https://www.parts-express.com/resources-crossover-component-selection-guide

That's what I used when I was building my system. You want to use the first column in the first chart. It only goes down to 500 hz, but you just move the decimal of the capacitor value one to the right for ever decimal you move left on the frequency.

Example: 700hz would be a 56.85uF capacitor. For 70hz, it would be a 568.5 uF. Therefore a 500uF capacitor should but you right around 80hz.


What's the difference between just a crossover capacitor and something like this that's a whole crossover assembly? https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-80-hz-high-pass-4-ohm-crossover--266-456

 

[14Accent]

Simply the ease of assembly. Using just a capacitor gives you 6db per octave of rolloff, so the low frequencies below the crossover point are played louder and lower, to put it simply. Your 6x8's can probably play relatively clearly down to 60hz or so, by which time the subwoofer will have taken over.

With that pre-built I, you have a 12db per octave rolloff, which may give you a bit of a lull between 60hz and 80 hz. You can eq some of this out by playing with the LPF on your amp.