Delvac 1, T&SUV 5W-40 for 23hp Kohler?

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Does anyone see any reason not to run this oil in the 23hp Kohler v-twin on my new Cub Cadet garden tractor? I noticed the engine runs pretty warm even on cool days. I added a Kohler factory oil cooler to the engine but I really don't know how much effect it had. Judging by the temperature of the oil cooler, the oil is still plenty warm.

The factory recommends 10W-30 down to 0°F and 5W-30 for lower temps but says nothing about using heavier oil when it's warmer. Anyone think the 5W-40 would cause any problems or show greater wear?
 
I've been using M1 T&SUV 5W-40 in my John Deere L118 with a Briggs & Stratton 22HP V-Twin for a little over a year with no problems--engine runs great and I have 54 hours on it so far---this oil covers the entire range referenced in my owner's manual--5W on the low end and 40 weight on the high end. I may switch to Rotella T 5w-40 now that the T&SUV has been renamed and is much harder to find.
 
My kohler command 20hp V-twin (2005 model year) runs smooth as butta on shell RT 5w-40. Then again, it ran just as smooth on 10w-30.
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IMO, anything between a 0w-30 and 15w-40 is fine in these engines.

Joel
 
I knew others like you JTK were running 5W-40 with no problems. I think the Rotella or T&SUV are good choices for these engines. I was just curious to see if there were any opposing views.

I even sent an email to Kohler to get their view. Here's what I got back today from one of their customer service guys.

Thank you for contacting the Kohler Company. Kohler recommends 10W-30 for almost all operating conditions based on the ambient air temperature. I want to add that you should allow the engine to break in for at least 50 hours before switching to synthetic oil. For more information, see the online service manual:

Owner's Manual

http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/24_590_01.pdf

However, from my personal experience and recommendation, a 5W-40 seems like an interesting option. Due to the oil temperatures that air cooled engines experience, a thicker viscosity (40) may be a good option to keep oil pressure up, etc. I feel that synthetic oils have certainly shown their superiority over standard oils. This is my opinion, and not what Kohler recommends.


I have Rotella T 10W-30 dino in the engine now for break in and of course it's fine like you'd expect. It really seems like a quality engine. One thing I did notice is how difficult it is to check the oil. It stays so clean it's hard to see on the stick.

Once I get a few more hours I'll decide what to do. I did notice the local Wally has T&SUV on the automotive closeout shelf. I'll have to check the prices next time I'm there.
 
Running Mobil 1 10W-30 EP in my Kawasaki 26 HP liquid cooled mower now. Not able to find Mobil 1 5W-40 locally. Can buy Mobil 1 15W-50 EP locally. Would that be suitable for the Kawasaki liquid cooled mower in the hotter summer months, or maybe even for the complete 8 month mowing season? Or should I join the ranks of the dreaded oil mixers and combine 10-30 and 15-50 to get a 12 1/2-40?
 
rphart - I personally think a 50 weight it too thick for that engine. What does Kawasaki recommend?

I've looked at a bunch of these oils and I think I'm going to run something completely different in my Kohler once I use up the Rotella 10W-30 I have.

I think I'm going to use Mobil MX4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil. It's made for the high temperatures of air cooled engines, has very high levels of anti-wear additives, and it's actually a little thinner than the 5W-40's at any normal temperatures where I might use my tractor.

Motorcycle applications are remarkably similar to those in air cooled power equipment. Much closer than either are to automotive usage. I think the MX4T will be a good choice.
 
I ran sae-30 in my old briggs 12hp craftsman for 10 years and never had a issue. Briggs did not think using a multi-vis 10w-30 or 5w-30 was a good idea, it stated in the service manuals. I have a new 23 hp kohler command pro in a John Deere tractor. Kohler thinks a 10w-30 is best. I am using shell rotella 10w-30 now after the break in change at 5 hours. I am thinking of using the rotella 15w-40 if I see a slight hint of consumption.
 
jsharp,

Motorcycle applications have some differences lately. Liquid cooled 4 strokes are the most common engine now, except for HD, some cruisers, and small bikes.

The Mobil MX4T is made for these modern liquid cooled engines, especially high performance 4 stroke singles. The Mobil MX4T does not have moly or similar friction modifiers at the levels typically found in most oils. The combined sump in most modern motorcycles has the clutch in the engine oil and moly and similar additives could cause clutch probs.

The Mobil 1 V-Twin oil is made for air cooled V-Twins like HDs and Metric cruisers and could be a better match for air cooled mower engines, but I do not know about the moly or similar friction modifier content. HDs have separate oil for gearbox and engine.

One note---in some web sites the Mobil MX4T scores right at the very top of some thorough elaborate tests. Because of this some Import car tuners and racers run this in their turbo charged or nitrous injected ultra high performance engines, even in drag racing and road racing.
 
I own 7 air-cooled engines...Kohler, Briggs and Honda OHV. The Kohler Command 20HP was switched from Pennzoil 10W-30 to Mobil 1 5W-50 and the oil filter changed last June. The mower ran much smoother, which may have been 100% due to an air filter change at the same time. These engines are known to blow grey smoke at cold start, and the Kohler doesn't do this nearly so bad with the Mobil 1. I was impressed enough to change all the others to the 5W-40 Mobil 1. They all seem to run a bit smoother, at least to me. When they need changing next time, I'll likely do a 'home brew,' mixing M-1 15W-50 & M-1 5-30 to get about 10W on the low end and a high 30 or low 40 on the high end...
Summers in Texas are flat hotter'n ****. These air-cooled engines run hotter than car & truck engines. It is only my opinion, but I'm going to run 40 wt. oil in this infernal heat, because I feel it offers my engines a bit of added protection.
 
You are right about Kohler engines running smooth. I have had experience with Briggs, Onan, Kawasaki, and Kohler. My 20 hp Kohler Command Pro only has 370 hours or so. I believe the Kohler 10-30 oil in the gray bottle is an outstanding choice. Read the specifications on the back of the bottle. As for the smoke at crankup: check the air filter, Spark plugs, and clean and adjust the carburater as the owners manual describes. As for overheating: keep the engine clean and check the fan and air flow over the cooling fins. Use the Kohler 10-30 in the Kohler engine - keep the rest of the engine maintained - and the Kohler will wear out the rest of the mower.
 
"I believe the Kohler 10-30 oil in the gray bottle is an outstanding choice. Read the specifications on the back of the bottle ... Use the Kohler 10-30 in the Kohler engine - keep the rest of the engine maintained - and the Kohler will wear out the rest of the mower."

sweezy, you gave some good advice about keeping the engine clean and serviced but I do not use OEM oils as they are usually of indifferent quality (neither good, nor bad) and over-priced.

If you can point to a VOA/UOA to show me (us) different, please do.

Just about any brand of oil, changed regularly, will allow the engine to outlast the rest of the mower.

--- Bror Jace
 
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