Tecumseh recommends against 10W30

[Craig in Canada]

A non-mechanically oriented friend was talking to me about doing some maintenance on his 7 year old mower for the first time

since it's hard starting (6-7 pulls) and he thinks that the oil should probably be changed some time.

We talked about oil changes, what oil to run, filters, plugs, carbs, sta-bil and all that stuff. He reports that it's a Tecumseh engine and that it says to use 30W and NOT 10W30.

What's the deal with recommending against 10W30 in all conditions? Is this assuming dino oil and hoping for better thermal stability in extended drain with plain 30W? He referring to "topping up", so there's consumption, but I'm not sure how much.

I'd really rather see him use a synthetic 10W30 or 10W40 if he has serious consumption. He's not a gearhead so I suggested Walmart Tech2000 or whatever it's called if price is a big deal.

Is there a real reason not to run 10Wxx in this engine?

Craig.

 

[47HO]

Can't say for the Tecumseh, but B&S only recommends 10W-30 IF synthetic, because of the shearing/comsumption issues with a 10W-30 dino.

 

[Quest]

Craig-

If the engine has seen lots of use over the past 7+yrs of service, he should perform the following:

(1) major tuneup, inc. new air filter, spark plugs, points, etc.

(2) replace the motor oil. Straight weight used to be "recommended" by small flat-head aircooled engine manufacturers due to it's "straight-weight" for better endurance in heat. However, that being said, motor oil has come a long way since then and now, multi-viscosity oil with higher ratings (diesel motor oil such as DELO/HDEO 10W40 or 15W40 comes into mind) with detergency will helps in maintaining good health of these little air-cooled engines making them last longer.

Don't argue with those stupid detergency for air-cooled 4-stroke engines are very similar in design when compared to regular 4-stroke automotive engines sharing many similar characteristics. Because of that, the added additives and detergency packages common to most motor oils shall proof to be just as beneficial to all air-cooled engines as to cars.

Tech 2000 15W40 diesel oil is what I'm using in my 6+yrs old B&S 4.5Hp and also my Honda 6.5Hp pressure washer right now...

Synthetic would be somewhat an "overkill" in this case for you want to have lots of ZDDP and/or moly in the oil which diesel engine oil provides.

 

[GMorg]

My Briggs and Stratton manual says the same thing, but my mower runs great on GC (0W30)!

 

[Craig in Canada]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Quest:
Craig-

If the engine has seen lots of use over the past 7+yrs of service, he should perform the following:

(1) major tuneup, inc. new air filter, spark plugs, points, etc.
[\qb]
[\quote]

All done, except points

[qb]
(2) replace the motor oil. Straight weight used to be "recommended" by small flat-head aircooled engine manufacturers due to it's "straight-weight" for better endurance in heat. However, that being said, motor oil has come a long way since then and now, multi-viscosity oil with higher ratings (diesel motor oil such as DELO/HDEO 10W40 or 15W40 comes into mind) with detergency will helps in maintaining good health of these little air-cooled engines making them last longer.

---

I figured, but thought I would ask. They didn't just recommend 30W, they warned against using 10W30, which scares the mower's owner away from doing anything else.

Craig.

 

[-Clayton-]

Mine says right on the side 30W summer 10w30 winter.

 

[Quest]

Nah! Technology has progressed to the point where anything (manuals, instructions,etc.) older than 4 yrs old are pretty much considered "outdated".

LOL! Kinda taking on a VW air-cooled engine (bug) which, in the 60s, used to straight weight motor oil. Even with antique restored air-cooled bugs these days owners would opt for multi-vis motor oil 10W40/15W40 instead of delibrately going after some silly straight weight 30 oil. Afterall: you get better reliability and longevity with less sludge formation and oil-related failures if you use modern motor oil.

If the Techumseh owner rejected your idea, so be it. I wouldn't loose sleep over some idiots who still stuck on some 7 or 10+ yrs old manual's recommendation when it comes to motor oil.

p.s. I serviced rotex (Bombardier) and B&S and Honda engines and I do see benefits in using multi-vis oil esp. in single propeller air plane with Rotex where during 2K scheduled rebuild, the engine is clean and free from sludge and carbon formation esp. on the oil control ring grooves...

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

Standards for oil are great. You can pickup a jug of oil, read the label and know what you're getting. My Grandfather used to tell me that in his day, you had to test the viscosity for yourself, and look at the color, smell the oil and then make your purchase.

10w-30 has got to be better than 30w oil in every way, except maybe price.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by 47HO:
Can't say for the Tecumseh, but B&S only recommends 10W-30 IF synthetic, because of the shearing/comsumption issues with a 10W-30 dino.

---

Kohler in their larger engines no longer recommends straight weight oils at all. 5W-20 or 5W-30 for lower temps, 10W-30 for higher temps.

 

[SteveU]

I have ran amsoil s-2000 0w-30 in the 10hp tecumseh engine on my snowblower the last 3 winters with no ill effects. Also have the 0w-30 in the pull start generator because most likely if we lose power it will be due to powerline icing or someone sliding off the road & taking out a pole. In the warm weather equip like lawnmowers I have 10w-40 synthetic but am thinking of going to 0w-30 just to get whatever tiny bit of extra fuel economy possible.

 

[muddawgs]

techumseh carbs are kinda notorious for for plugging up and getting gummy if the gas is not drained or run dry. there is a often tiny missed hole in the bowl bolt threads in the bolt and in the carb threads itself. about 6 threads or so up on the inside clean that out with a fine piece of wire and clean out the rest of the carb. a new carb gasket kit couldnt hurt at all either. all the techumsehs i've seen that started hard were gummed up and ran like crap. clean the carb and esp that tiny hole out and walla..

oil he can use whatever he wants. any 30wt would be a ok suggestion. i've used m1 10/30 and even low mileage used m1. both fine.

 

[johnsmith]

1.17MB, page 12 has the info you need:
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf