Will Rubberized Undercoating Kill your Car - SMA

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Hah, I just finished watching that video! That's crazy, I would have never though that stuff would do that until one of our remote technicians (Syracuse, NY) had his service truck done with the same type of stuff. Sure enough a year and a half or so later we were bringing it back to home base here in PA to have it all removed.

My truck is almost 20 years old and doesn't look 1/4 as bad and it's been uncovered through all the salt here.
 
Thick wax type sprays can do the same thing if they don't breathe the moisture away. Fluid film is thin enough that this doesn't happen. Krown is even thinner which is why I think they work so well. I've seen painted under bodies work well. I've yet to see bed liner coatings underneath a vehicle but I would suspect they would work well if they are the really tough type and not the economy brands. I like the oils because it makes future repairs easy and also protects electrical connectors from corroding if the weather connector seals aren't the greatest.
 
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Wow a 2011 with so much rust. I agree that these types of hard coatings are nothing but garbage. That truck would've been better off without any treatment at all. And look at all the electrical connectors, totally ruined.
But I can see how so many people go for this. It looks super clean and "professional" all while the rust is hidden away and doing colossal damage. Oil rustproofing, on the other hand, looks messy and it is messy. Even on this board I've seen people mention many times how they don't like that oil type coating attract so much dirt.

I'd rather get messy while working on my vehicles, than deal with rust.

Thanks for sharing this video, it should be an eye opener for a lot of people. This type of coating being garbage and actually causing more rust is nothing new for many of us living in the rust belt, but there are still a lot of people that fall for this garbage.
 
RustCheck at some locations they have a black tint in their spray that you can get if you want this black look to their oil undercoating. I had it done on my Ford Tempo because the underneath was an ugly brown rust colour and it bugged me. (I bought it used). It's mostly used for classic cars or performance cars where they want the underneath to look clean and uniform but want the benefits of the rust proofing.

It's also good for when you are reselling your vehicle. Makes it look "Mint" underneath sort of thing.
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As for getting dirty, I would much rather this as well. You will just get rust all over your driveway and in your eyes / hair anyway so why not protect it from the first day and make repairs easier in the process with bolts/nuts that come off easily while extending the body life and furthering your resale value should you sell it. No brainier to me. And it's far cheaper in the long run being done every year than having to take your vehicle to a body shop for costly repairs and expensive paint let alone the extra mechanics time in replacing parts that are stuck and won't come off sort of thing.
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I never tried rubberized stuff, but did buy a spray kit you use with your air compressor from JC Whitney back in the day. I also used a gallon can of some brush on stuff from JC Whiney as well. They seemed OK. I had my 1998 Chevy pickup "rust-proofed" with sticky, tar-like black undercoating by a truck accessory shop in 1999. They drilled and sprayed in the doors, sills, etc, as well. It had a solvent smell to it at first and didn't drip as I recall. I didn't keep these vehicles long enough to judge longevity.
 
It was a looonnng process. But I had the stuff and the time. Linseed oil. Takes a month or more to dry. It creates an airtight seal. No air, no water. I was advised to use it inside doors and voids.Places where the sun doesn't shine. I used it on the frame I was repairing. 5 yrs later, more frame repairs. The coated areas are just like I had left them.
 
My van was done by Ziebart over 30 years ago, still no rust. The product they used was different than the crap in the video. In fact if they were still around here I would have had them do my Jeep, if they used the same product they used on my van.
 
So my 2003 Camry has survived the Ohio salt belt just fine thank you very much. (Including the brine stuff they've used for the past 5 years).

With nothing more that the OEM rust proof coating.

Standard rusty crud on the front suspension bits and gunked up real brake splash guards but other than that it has never needed anything.

Why do so many here think that they need Krown/linseed/ Fluid film/Ziebart treatments?

Is it an OEM original quality issue???
 
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Originally Posted by Imp4
So my 2003 Camry has survived the Ohio salt belt just fine thank you very much. (Including the brine stuff they've used for the past 5 years).

With nothing more that the OEM rust proof coating.

Standard rusty crud on the front suspension bits and gunked up real brake splash guards but other than that it has never needed anything.

Why do so many here think that they need Krown/linseed/ Fluid film/Ziebart treatments?

Experience? You know, been there, done that. My '04 VW needed a bit of repair at the 10 year mark due to rusty fenders.

State inspection here keeps many of them off the road in my state. Once in a while I'll see something w/o rockers and assume that they know a guy.

Plus with only Toyota's I'm not taking chances.
 
NH Oil undercoating charged me $265. That was for a small used pickup that is new to me, with lower miles and no rust holes in body. Some minor frame surface rust. The only game in the area.
 
It looks to me as if fresh undercoating was put on an already trashed out truck. Why is the undercoating so shiny and black? If it really had a few years on it the undercoating would be very, very dirty looking. Something seems
a little suspicious here.
 
Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
It looks to me as if fresh undercoating was put on an already trashed out truck. Why is the undercoating so shiny and black? If it really had a few years on it the undercoating would be very, very dirty looking. Something seems
a little suspicious here.

Yes, some of it looks suspect, like it was recently done, over dirt and rust.
 
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Originally Posted by diyjake
what do you guys pay to get a rust prevention treatment?

2 or 3 cans of rust check or krown will do all the critical parts of a car once the holes are drilled. Maybe another can if you want to hose down all of the underbody, even the spots that will be blasted off with water and slush.
I am debating doing the Outback myself for the first time and drilling holes in it... I may let the pros do it once and then reapply myself.
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Had a car undercoated , once . But to try to deaden some road noise . Not for rust protection .

Just started watching the same video .
 
I had the Toyota frame rust recall done and after six New Hampshire winters in the frozen north their rustproofing treatment is still holing up fine.
 
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