Briggs & Stratton 10hp w/ OHV - Synthetic

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
176
Location
Florida
The above engine is on a Troy Bilt 5550 generator. It's a 10hp briggs, has been ran maybe 2 hours tops. I start it up once a month and let it run for about 20 minutes. I put a light load on the generator (1500w hair dryer) to get er goin.

I am running the factory fill dyno SAE 30. If I switch to Mobil 1 what weight do I need to run in this thing?

Keep in mind hot temps, high humidity, and maybe extended run times if the next hurricane is bad..
rolleyes.gif
 
I assume this is one of the 205400 Series Engines with a horizontal shaft.

The owner's manual:

www.briggsandstratton.com/om/pdfs/100/275092-Domestic.pdf

shows that a 5W-30 or 10W-30 synthetic covers the range from -20F to 100F.

They recommend not using an SAE 30 mineral oil below 40F because it may damage the cylinder, while a 5W-30 or 10W-30 mineral oil should not be used below 0F or above 40F.

If you're going to run it for sustained periods, I'd vote for the 10W-30 Mobil 1 which should perform better in sustained use in an air-cooled engine.

If you are going to run it sporadically but start it in the winter, I'd go with the 5W-30 Mobil 1.


.
 
I have a similar generator in which I run 5W50 Castrol. In Mobil 1 I would suggest 15w50, or 5w40 Truck and SUV. Yes I believe thicker oil has it's places, and that this is one of them. Also don't forget to use Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer in any fuel that may be stored for 30 or more days. I put it in all my stored fuel as soon as the fuel is purchased. Stabil really does cut down on fuel system problems caused by stale fuel. I also use and recomend Marvel Mystrey Oil in the fuel. I believe the MMO will help keep the carburator parts, and engine top end parts better lubricated. MMO probably helps soften and dislodge any carbon deposits that develop in the combustion chamber too. Good luck... Rickey.
 
I have a 10 HP B&S in a leaf blower (2004) and owners' manual recommends synthetic 10W-30 for every application. .
 
I have a smaller version of the model you have and I use Maxlife Synthetic 10W-30. I think the Maxlife Synth is a good choice for air cooled small engines.
 
thedawk, any particular reason you think so? Weight? Shear stability? Additive package? Please be specific.

The problem with 5W-30 and 10W-30 PCMOs is that they are prone to shear ... and you have a 20 weight oil (at temp) after just a few hours of run time.

But, if you have something you tend to run hard ... but only for short periods at a time and you are able to chahte the oil after just 8-12 hours of use (a generator or snowblower) they should be fine.

Or you could use a 10W-30 HDEO ... if you can find one. That should be really shear resistant.

A 10W-40 would be another choice. This stuff shears into grade (down to a 10W-30) and the caveats some manufacturers have against this grade are decades out of date.

I like MMO in most applications ... but not all. My Honda tractor acts up when using heavy doses of MMO or 2-stroke oil in the gas.

--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
thedawk, any particular reason you think so? Weight? Shear stability? Additive package? Please be specific.

The problem with 5W-30 and 10W-30 PCMOs is that they are prone to shear ... and you have a 20 weight oil (at temp) after just a few hours of run time.

But, if you have something you tend to run hard ... but only for short periods at a time and you are able to chahte the oil after just 8-12 hours of use (a generator or snowblower) they should be fine.

Or you could use a 10W-30 HDEO ... if you can find one. That should be really shear resistant.

A 10W-40 would be another choice. This stuff shears into grade (down to a 10W-30) and the caveats some manufacturers have against this grade are decades out of date.

I like MMO in most applications ... but not all. My Honda tractor acts up when using heavy doses of MMO or 2-stroke oil in the gas.

--- Bror Jace


Bror,
I like Maxlife Synth for this application for a couple reason. First of all, like mentioned earlier, B&S recommends 5w- or 10w-30 synthetic. Second, Maxlife synthetic is ACEA A3 rated (at least the SM version) which I think is probably a good spec to look for in an air cooled, no oil filter application like this. Being that it is high mileage formula it has a bit stronger add package than normal. And finally, it easily available off the shelf. I'm sure there are plenty off other oils that would work just fine also.
thedawk
 
Looks like I'm going to have to get the actual model # of the engine out of the manual and look @ it. I was just concerned mainly running a synthetic oil in a generator engine---causing leaks, etc, etc.

I will most likely use a 5w30? (if I read correctly thats ok) or the T&SUV 5w40. Both synthetic Mobil 1.

It stillllll has the factory fill. I have ran it another 30 minutes and still waiting for at least an 8 hour oil change to allow a break-in period.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Yeah, I initially recommended Maxlife Synthetic 10w-30, but I think the GC would be a good choice as well. It's just a matter of finding it any more.
 
thedawk, I like your reasoning ... but wonder how this stuff maintains its grade over regular and even extended oil drains in an air-cooled engine ... especially in Florida.

Look how fast Patman's Royal Purple 10W-30 thinned out in a Honda Civic.
rolleyes.gif


German Castrol 0W-30, on the other hand, maintains its weight very well in most applications we've seen.
smile.gif


I'd love for someone here (other than me) to put their fave oil to the test and do a UOA after a few dozen hours on it. Here's a link to my Honda's UOA:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000977

Of course, it needs to be noted that this Honda tractor is liquid-cooled.
dunno.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top