Honda TRX90 Battery Upgrade

[Phishin]

The stock acid battery in my 2 year old Honda is toast. Yes, I keep a C-Tek on it to keep it in tip top shape. But it's small and I know it's life is very limited.

I'm looking for a better battery. Any input??

Here is what I'm considering:
Deka Battery

Here's what I'm working with:

 

[Pelican]

Deka makes very good batteries! Another to consider is Yuasa

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by Pelican
Deka makes very good batteries! Another to consider is Yuasa


Yuasa is what's in it. Yuasa is an OEM Honda battery. I want something better.

Yes, I know Deka is the best. The linked battery is branded as a Duracell, but it's made by East Penn

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Earlier this summer I saw a guy swapping one of those out at O'Really's The look like Motorcycle battery's I'd guess a God Wing nearly has a battery that big.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I think you have too much faith in your C-tek's marketing mumbo jumbo( lies)

What voltage is your C-tek holding the battery at?

Through what ambient temperature range? Does it adjust float/maintenance voltage for battery temperature?

Say it floats at 13.4volts always, in Sub 50F temps this is likely too low for an AGM. iin 100F ambients, 13.4v is too high. Sub 50f and the battery will discharge, 100f it will overcharge.

Temperature compensation is very important when there is a wide temperature range the floating battery is to be subjected to.

AGM batteries, I'd rather full charge them and remove charger, as opposed to float them. Reapply charger monthly.

Holding an AGm at the wrong float voltage is not doing it any favors, and AGMS have very little self discharge. Remove the parasitic draws by disconnecting the ground cable when not in use.

Odyssey AGM make some small high quality batteries, but none i see that are the same size as the one you linked.

Not sure how many options you have in that size.

AGM batteries, if they are deeply discharged, are not happy with a 'trickle charge' it tickles them to death.

A 50% depleted 10AH capacity AGM battery, should be fed no less than 2 amps, preferably 3, until voltage reaches 14.4 to 14.7v( assuming a 77f battery)
14,4 to 14.7v should then be held until amperage tapers to 0.05 amps.

An 10Ah Odyssey AGM depleted to 50% would instruct no less than 4 amps be applied until 14.7v is reached at the battery terminals, then hold 14.7v for 4 more hours.

So if your battery is ever depleted to 50% or less, adn not getting this regimen or somewhat close to it via your C-tek, it is not being charger properly, much less kept in 'tip top' shape.

or you can just believe the green light and the charger's marketing and buy another new battery in 2 years or less.

get one of those timers that can activate the C tek for 15 minutes a day and the battery will likely go 4 years.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Check out Napa's line of AGM batteries.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by wrcsixeight
I think you have too much faith in your C-tek's marketing mumbo jumbo( lies)

What voltage is your C-tek holding the battery at?

Through what ambient temperature range? Does it adjust float/maintenance voltage for battery temperature?

Say it floats at 13.4volts always, in Sub 50F temps this is likely too low for an AGM. iin 100F ambients, 13.4v is too high. Sub 50f and the battery will discharge, 100f it will overcharge.

Temperature compensation is very important when there is a wide temperature range the floating battery is to be subjected to.

AGM batteries, I'd rather full charge them and remove charger, as opposed to float them. Reapply charger monthly.

Holding an AGm at the wrong float voltage is not doing it any favors, and AGMS have very little self discharge. Remove the parasitic draws by disconnecting the ground cable when not in use.

Odyssey AGM make some small high quality batteries, but none i see that are the same size as the one you linked.

Not sure how many options you have in that size.

AGM batteries, if they are deeply discharged, are not happy with a 'trickle charge' it tickles them to death.

A 50% depleted 10AH capacity AGM battery, should be fed no less than 2 amps, preferably 3, until voltage reaches 14.4 to 14.7v( assuming a 77f battery)
14,4 to 14.7v should then be held until amperage tapers to 0.05 amps.

An 10Ah Odyssey AGM depleted to 50% would instruct no less than 4 amps be applied until 14.7v is reached at the battery terminals, then hold 14.7v for 4 more hours.

So if your battery is ever depleted to 50% or less, adn not getting this regimen or somewhat close to it via your C-tek, it is not being charger properly, much less kept in 'tip top' shape.

or you can just believe the green light and the charger's marketing and buy another new battery in 2 years or less.

get one of those timers that can activate the C tek for 15 minutes a day and the battery will likely go 4 years.


So what you're saying is: FORGET the $100 AGM battery and the $120 charger that it will require and put my C-TEK on a timer and keep buying those cheap $20 flooded batteries every 2-3 years? That would make sense if I'm only going to get 4 years out of an AGM and could get 2-3 years from a flooded. That's why I asked. But did I understand you correctly?

 

[wrcsixeight]

I did not know that they sold flooded batteries in the specific size you are looking for.

i am saying, instead of leaving the Ctek on it 24/7/365 as a float maintenance charger though all ambient temperatures, except when the honda is in use of course, to instead put the ctek on it until is indicates full charge, and then put it on a timer so that it charges the battery every so often. 15 minutes a day.

Really depends on the self discharge of the particular battery.

The wrong float voltage is not doing a battery any favors.

All battery specifications, as to the correct float and absorption voltages, assume a battery temperature of 77F.

Lower then 77F requires higher voltage, higher requires lower.
The Ideal charger for actually keeping the battery in 'tiptop' shape needs to hold it at a specific voltage, compensated for battery temperature( not charger temperature) to prevent any degree of self discharge, and also to prevent overchrge.

So when temperatures are well distant from that 77F, a maintenance charger without a battery temperature sensor, is incapable of meeting this ideal.

In sucj a case i would much prefer to fully charge the battery and disconnect it from parasitic loads and the charger, and apply the charger monthly or twice monthly in the hotter months.

battery self discharge is very low at low temperatures and much higher in hot temperatures.

I am not even sure which float. maintainers actually come with battery temperature sensors, so when these products are used on batteries that are nowhere near 77F, they are NOT doing the battery any favors, and the human employing might be blissfully unaware of this, until it is time to yet again replace another battery which failed much earlier than hoped for.