Effects of regular oil spray rustproofing

[KrisZ]

Reading the thread about daily drivers having rust got me thinking to share some pictures of the cars I own, especially the 06 Mazda 3, since it is a known rust bucket in areas where salt is used during winter. So that's pretty much everywhere it snows

Hopefully some people will see that oil spray does work, although it is not a 100% guarantee, and those planning to keep the cars beyond 10 years, should look into treating their vehicles regularly. But If my Mazda 3 has pretty minimal rust for its age, other models should fare much, much better with regular treatment.

A little background on Mazda 3:
- I bought this car brand new.
- It was sprayed by Krown for the first 5 years of ownership, with me doing touch ups in heavily washed areas, like wheel wells.
- Then from 2011 onward I moved to DIY rustproofing using locally sourced product from Monarch Oil distributor and a cheap undercoating gun for the undercarriage.
- For door cavities, rocker panels, etc. I used a spray bottle of Corrosion Free Rust Cure.

The lip of the rear wheel well.

20180903_122554 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

Inside the rear wheel well.

20180903_122605 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

Rockers, I sometime use this location for jack stands or as a jacking point.

20180903_122632 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

My main jacking point.

20180903_122640 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

Subframe

20180903_122648 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

The rear. Please take note at the sway bar end links, there are original. They are known to fail with rubber simply disintegrating and the end links rusting, but I believe the oil spray helped with keeping them in good shape.

20180903_122705 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

Also, despite my efforts, the B and C pillars are starting to bubble, yay Mazda

20180903_122523 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr
20180903_122518 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr


Not much going on with our Grand Caravan. It was treated by Krown once.

20180903_122735 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr
20180903_122750 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

And my yogurt container protection for the rear AC lines seems to be holding up no problem. Some dirt is being kicked in there and since I sprayed that area with Rust Cure, the area lokks filthy, but should be well protected from the main spray and rocks being kicked up by the tire.

20180903_124117 by Yahoo Cane, on Flickr

 

[tig1]

I sprayed used oil under and around rust prone areas of my cars in the 70s, while living in Maine twice a year, and never had any rust.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Wow that looks good! A 2006 Mazda3 in that condition? Krown should be using your pics in their advertisements

And of course, here is what your car would look like without the rust-proofing:

 

[supton]

I feel better now--I've noticed rust creeping up fast, despite using Fluid Film; I think I can see that it's an inferior product, but that even better products will leave rust.

Ironically I've been spraying FF this afternoon. Hot enough day for it. Starting to truly hate the smell.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Wow that looks good! A 2006 Mazda3 in that condition? Krown should be using your pics in their advertisements

And of course, here is what your car would look like without the rust-proofing:

That looks like something out of a horror movie 0.0

 

[spk2000]

Don't spray the rotors!!

 

[StevieC]

My local Krown guy here who I'm friends with suggests Mazda's come in twice a year. (Not an official Krown policy)

Once for the whole car and the second time for the underneath to be done again. He says they are the hardest to keep rust free because the galvanizing on the metal they use is absolute crap compared to other OE's.

That said every vehicle we have owned in the family (No Mazdas) have been rust free after decades of use and hundreds of thousands of kilometers. The best case was the 1986 Dodge Caravan we had for 22 years with 0 rust after 460,000km in some really bad Canadian Winters with plenty of salt, and hot humid summers. I was sad when the electrical harness under the hood caught the engine on fire and we scrapped the vehicle because the damage wasn't worth repairing.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted by supton


Ironically I've been spraying FF this afternoon. Hot enough day for it. Starting to truly hate the smell.


I like to get mine on the last warm day of fall. Figure hitting hot metal will help it stick but then the cool-down will keep it from dropping.

What's your motivation to get it this early? You're gonna lose some.

 

[irv]

I just had all 3 vehicles sprayed by Krown last week. I am not necessarily a Krown only guy as I also think Rust Check is good but the guy I used to spray my truck with with Rust Check last year didn't do the greatest of job, imo.

Either one will work as long as the place/applicator does a good job.

In all my years of driving and using either Rust Check or Krown, I have never had any rust develop anywhere other than those mentioned wash areas. I also occasionally, like the OP, spray those areas using their products in a spray can.
I snowmobile and do lots of other outdoor activities so my trucks are more than just grocery getters.

Also, it should be noted, I have never had any issue ever selling a vehicle that I have owned. A 87 GMC Wrangler I sold in 97 rust free, a 97 Sierra Z-71 I sold in 2009 rust free, and 09 Sierra I sold in 2013 Rust free.

 

[skyactiv]

Most cars have been E dipped for years while the Japanese made Mazda 3's were not. The Mazda 3's assembled in Mexico are E dipped.

The process:

 

[StevieC]

All Krown techs have to be re-certified annually where as RustCheck they don't. Krown also has an extensive library on all makes/models of where to put the holes to avoid sensitive electronics and where trouble prone spots are on each vehicle given their designs etc. Rust Check has basic training for the shop doing the application once and that's it and then they support the folks with a help-line. I think that's why there is usually a quality application difference and inconsistencies.

I have used Rust Check in the past to see what the difference was and was less than impressed with my local shop here. They liked spraying lots of plastic things under the car and in the wheel wells and missed all sorts of metal that would of rusted if I hadn't touch it up with a Krown application later.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by eljefino
Originally Posted by supton


Ironically I've been spraying FF this afternoon. Hot enough day for it. Starting to truly hate the smell.


I like to get mine on the last warm day of fall. Figure hitting hot metal will help it stick but then the cool-down will keep it from dropping.

What's your motivation to get it this early? You're gonna lose some.


Making the most of the weekend. Figured Murpy's law would have every weekend rain between now and Christmas. The days are getting shorter already (not bad yet but can tell) and things have a tendency to zip by me if not careful. I forget when I sprayed last year but all the suspension parts on all my vehicles were bone dry. Only the truck had some where water doesn't wash, and that's probably because it sits a lot. It just doesn't last, but I still have 2-3 gallons left to use up.

Thought it might creep and make up for a less than stellar application...

I should go back to doing touchups when I put on snows and do rotations.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted by irv
I just had all 3 vehicles sprayed by Krown last week. I am not necessarily a Krown only guy as I also think Rust Check is good but the guy I used to spray my truck with with Rust Check last year didn't do the greatest of job, imo.

Either one will work as long as the place/applicator does a good job.

In all my years of driving and using either Rust Check or Krown, I have never had any rust develop anywhere other than those mentioned wash areas. I also occasionally, like the OP, spray those areas using their products in a spray can.
I snowmobile and do lots of other outdoor activities so my trucks are more than just grocery getters.

Also, it should be noted, I have never had any issue ever selling a vehicle that I have owned. A 87 GMC Wrangler I sold in 97 rust free, a 97 Sierra Z-71 I sold in 2009 rust free, and 09 Sierra I sold in 2013 Rust free.



These trucks look great in the pics

 

[A310]

Your cars in great shape considering that your driving in Toronto. In the early 90's I lived and worked in Hamilton and used Krown annually on my 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass and had no rust. I now treat my own cars every August with New Hampshire undercoating, I'm on my 3rd season and no signs of rust anywhere. This product is very similar to Krown.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by KrisZ
Originally Posted by irv
I just had all 3 vehicles sprayed by Krown last week. I am not necessarily a Krown only guy as I also think Rust Check is good but the guy I used to spray my truck with with Rust Check last year didn't do the greatest of job, imo.

Either one will work as long as the place/applicator does a good job.

In all my years of driving and using either Rust Check or Krown, I have never had any rust develop anywhere other than those mentioned wash areas. I also occasionally, like the OP, spray those areas using their products in a spray can.
I snowmobile and do lots of other outdoor activities so my trucks are more than just grocery getters.

Also, it should be noted, I have never had any issue ever selling a vehicle that I have owned. A 87 GMC Wrangler I sold in 97 rust free, a 97 Sierra Z-71 I sold in 2009 rust free, and 09 Sierra I sold in 2013 Rust free.



Those trucks look great in the pics

Thanks.

Originally Posted by A310
Your cars in great shape considering that your driving in Toronto. In the early 90's I lived and worked in Hamilton and used Krown annually on my 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass and had no rust. I now treat my own cars every August with New Hampshire undercoating, I'm on my 3rd season and no signs of rust anywhere. This product is very similar to Krown.


I have never heard of NH undercoating.

My Father and some friends don't use Rust Check or Krown but have their vehicles undercoated annually with what I believe is some Shell undercoating/spray of some sort.
Anything is better than nothing but when I use to spray my own vehicles with Rust Check (was/is available in 4 ltr jugs) I also did my Father's 3/4 ton Ford one year and I couldn't believe how dry it was under there.
After I was done I was covered in rust/dirt as most had washed off over the course of the winter/spring and summer. I did it once and that was enough for me. Although his undercarriage was dry, under his hood and I imagine inside his doors were still protected where it couldn't be washed off. I believe he pays around $90 to $100 bucks to have his sprayed using this product?

Krown and Rust Check are only around $30 to $50 dollars more so that is the route I have chosen for years.

 

[Johnny2Bad]

Must have been a production change with Mazda, my 1990 has a little rust at the rear quarter behind the door on one side, nothing elsewhere, and it's driven all winter and never garaged. On the other hand, in Western Canada we don't use as much salt as the northern US or Eastern Canada, as it's only effective in warm weather (relatively speaking)*. We've switched to Calcium Chloride in my city, no difference from Salt Chlorides as far as chemical corrosion goes but our lower rate of application helps; cars from Ontario and Quebec are noticeably more affected by body rust. Packed dirty snow residue can still cause issues if you don't wash the car in winter, but that will happen even if zero road chemicals are used.

* Road Salt will not melt snow or ice below -7C / +20F. Calcium Chloride will melt ice and snow down to -32C / -25F Road Salt is slightly cheaper, by about 10% by the tonne.

 

[StevieC]

The new calcium chloride and beet juice solution they spray on the roads here before a winter storm, when wet thereafter sticks to your vehicle like crazy and leaves a nice haze on the glass, paint and mirrors. It's a Royal PITA washing it off especially when it's too cold to get a car wash for weeks at a time.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

That's the way it was on my focus.

Suspension and most of the large metal bits were perfect. Nice oily coating on them.

Then, over the course of the '16-17 winter, I don't know what happened, but the rocker panels and rear floor rusted out. It got routine washes and waxes too.

 

[camrydriver111]

Thanks for the pics!

 

[littleant]

Originally Posted by tig1
I sprayed used oil under and around rust prone areas of my cars in the 70s, while living in Maine twice a year, and never had any rust.

Some folks still use this method up here in Vermont and it works. Little messy. There is a 1970 Chevy pickup in town in mint condition. Purchased new.