High LTFT at idle, no vac leak

Unless I'm mistaken, anything that would diagnose is problems I'm not having. It's breathing just fine, both in and out, or I'd have a worse problem under load than I to at idle; but the problem disappears with any load at all.

I'm curious what I have to gain from doing this on this particular engine. I have some running to do today, which will definitely bring the engine up to temp. If I see a convincing and logical explanation of why it's appropriate for this engine, I'll give it a shot.
 
You claimed you had rapid vacuum needle fluctuation when you checked it warm before but no issue cold the next day. A static compression test may not tell you the whole story. If you recheck vacuum when it’s hot and there is no needle fluctuation then I probably wouldn’t go down this rabbit hole. But if you are.. by all means do it.
 
The initial vac test was done cold, actually.

The compression test that followed was done warm, because the truck had time to warm up at idle while I was checking everything else out.

That said, I see no harm in checking it again hot this afternoon, after I do my running. Will do that and report back.

If I do see needle fluctuation this afternoon and choose to go ahead with the dynamic compression test, I should only need to do that on one cylinder, correct? I can only reach the fuel injectors for cylinders 1 and 2 to unplug them and not risk blowing up a borrowed compression gauge.
 
Engine hot, needle vibrates less than 0.25in/hg, which is well within what I'd consider steady. You can't see it moving unless you look really closely at it.

Am I wrong in thinking this is fairly normal? I may well have hooked the gauge up loosely when I got the 4in/hg vibration, because I can't repeat it now.
 
Tail location: BETWEEN LEGS

Looking for possible no-parts fixes for this, I decided to loosen and re-torque intake manifold bolts one by one. On a whim, after completely removing the frontmost bolt, I decided to start it and see if anything sounded or acted differently.

No change.

With a whole bolt MISSING.

Even when I spray carb cleaner at it.

Indicative of a leak prior to the removal of the bolt?
 
Well.........



Since I had the parts on hand anyway I decided to bite the bullet.

Confident this is the issue. See how dirty that is? 2 and 3 were leaking like a sieve!

Will report back after reassembly.
 
WELL!

While there was no lip on the plenum gasket and the manifold gasket was rock hard and came off in pieces...

My issue persists.

And yes, I reset the ECU. It was unplugged for the duration of the repair.

I'll re-check the torque on all the bolts tomorrow but... unless I torqued them incorrectly, this was NOT my issue and we're back to confirmed no vac leak.

Injectors all looked a bit coked up around the edges but the nozzles were clear. I don't have means to test them out of the truck but I no longer suspect them at this point. I gave the seating surfaces a good cleaning with carb cleaner, greased the o-rings with silicone dielectric, and they went in effortlessly and with no leaks.

Between all of the above, the steady vacuum, the 3% compression variance, the EGR solenoid being new and tested to be good, the IAC being new and tested to be good, coils, plugs, and wires being new and tested to be good, EGR valve being cleaned and tested to be good, MAF being cleaned and tested to be good, IAT sensor being cleaned and tested to be good, crank position sensor being tested to be good, upstream O2 sensor tested to be good...

That really just leaves the DPFE sensor and the downstream O2 sensor.

Can anyone confirm the likelihood of the downstream O2 causing this? My understanding is the DPFE would only cause this once the EGR system became active, and that the EGR system is not active at idle, so I'm leaning toward it being something other than the DPFE -- even though I know I *should* replace that thing anyway given that it's the older aluminum bodied part that is known to fail often.

Anyone got anything else I should maybe look at?

EDIT: A point I keep forgetting is that EGR doesn't affect (or barely affects) fuel trims on MAF-controlled engines. If I were dealing with a MAP sensor I would be right to look at the DPFE sensor. Given that I'm looking at a MAF-controlled engine, I'll disregard the DPFE and the rest of the EGR system for now. Which leaves the downstream O2 sensor... Any input?

EDIT 2: I forgot to mention, the truck idled butter smooth when I first started it (well, after it cleared out all the carb cleaner). Like, smoother than it's ever been. As I drove it and fuel trims adjusted (just STFT at this point but it's in the high-teens range) it got a little rougher. Just back to what it was before, which isn't really rough but you can feel the vibration. That tells me it's unnecessarily adjusting fuel trims, which points to a sensor. I'm going to replace the downstream O2 since it's not behaving as I expect it to, and see where that goes. I found the OE part for $32 at a parts store nearby; they also just offered me a job today, to start next week, so I doubt they'd screw me on the part, that's just a really good price. The upstream O2 is $31 from a number of local suppliers, in case the downstream doesn't do the trick, but the upstream seems fine -- the truck goes closed loop within 2 minutes of a cold start after sitting overnight.
 
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Gave it some more thought, went over what I observed a few more times, and decided to replace the downstream O2. New sensor begins reading much sooner, but the high fuel trims at idle persist.

On the first trart after clearing the ECU:
BEFORE the downstream O2 begins giving output, the truck idles like a champ; it's like a brand new engine. AFTER is when the fuel trims get out of whack and things go to heck. That rules out a vac leak at this point, as I'd expect it to be lean without the added fuel and even out with the increase in FT if there were still a vac leak (and there WERE... several... there's nowhere else that could be leaking).

On subsequent starts, I get the vibration (I wouldn't by any means say the truck runs rough) right from the get-go, even cold. Obviously, I haven't let it sit overnight yet to see if it still happens in the morning, but if what I observed after the gaskets but before the O2 is any indication I expect nothing to change.

If I reset the ECU, it evens right back out, even on a hot engine, until the downstream O2 comes on and fricks it right up.

Replaced with an EO equivalent part made by NTK, who made the OE part.

I really don't want to blame the upstream O2 sensor for this, given that it gets up to temp and begins giving output VERY quickly. Though, perhaps too quickly?
 
Did you by any chance ever solve this problem? I'm having a very similar situation with a 2007 Ford Ranger 2.3l. My fuel trims are very similar and react in the same fashion but EVERYTHING has been checking out and I can't find a leak. I've noticed the truck runs like new after a reset. LTFT stays at %0 even if I let it idle for an hour. STFT bounce back and forth around %0. Perfect. However, once the load increases the problems begin. This is my best clue. Say I get in the truck after a reset and it's idling great. Then I switch on the defroster. The rpm holds well through the load increase, but the fuel trim will very quickly begin to rise dramatically. I've seen it go to +%10 on both the LTFT and the STFT. +20 is no good. The truck begins to run extremely rough. The odd thing is that once I turn the defroster back off my fuel trims do not decrease and I am left with this condition. If I remember correctly I believe I was able to get the condition to begin through the use of the brake booster as well. So maybe triggered by changes in vacuum? Anyway, I was wondering If you had an update to your situation that may help me move forward in the search.
 
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