Transmission Pan GASKET - Silicon or Not

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Tomorrow I will be adding some additional Magnets to my Transmission Pan
and replacing the Transmission Pan Gasket on vehicle in Signature.

Normally the Gasket (that comes with the Filter) is Rubber and requires NO Silicon Sealant.
I never had a fluid leak with this type gasket but would prefer not to reuse.
Torque Wrench used and staggered the bolts.

I ended up buying a FelPro and noticed it has a rubbery textured finish.
1/16" thick with holes at up to 3" spacing.
It looks like good quality and I like that it wasn't folded to fit in the box.

Normal maintenance is a Drain / Refill every 10,000 miles using Drain Plug.
I just replaced the Filter and at 150,000 miles, I may never remove the Pan again, but ...

Question: Should I put a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black (I already have)
on both sides of the Gasket or not ? ? ?

Question: Anybody have a stubborn Transmission leak only fixed by adding Sealant ? ? ?

I always liked not having to do any scrapping when Pan was removed in the past.
But, I'm kind of leaning towards using the Silicon and deal with any scrapping at a later date.



Your comments are appreciated.

The MasterSolenoid
 
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No need for silicone. Gasket only. Make sure mating surfaces on either side of the gasket is clean, dry and degreased using brake-cleaner etc. Torque down bolts in proper sequence and you will be golden.

I much prefer solid flat gaskets like this instead of silicone. It makes taking the pan off next time much easier.
 
I've had the opposite experience as StevieC. I prefer no gasket as I've had gaskets leak but not RTV. Whatever you choose, degrease the mating surfaces.
 
I use High Tack on both sides of the gasket as mentioned, and had very good luck with it. It also makes for easy removal when it comes time to drop the transmission pan again.
 
If you ask Permatex they will tell you to use Permatex RTV Silicone alone. They have a product for that. Also, they say for “paper” type gaskets you should use Permatex High Tack on one side to hold the gasket in place. ( or Gasacinch, which they own).For “rubbery” type gaskets no adhesives are required, but this is personal choice. Do what you like, but for stubborn leaks Permatex would recommend their dedicated transmission pan silicone. www.Permatex.com

Look for Permatex RTV Automatic Transmission Gasket Maker
 
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I wouldn't use anything on a rubber gasket. Coat it in some ATF to help it seat in properly, torque to spec, done.

Disclaimer: I am anti RTV, absolutely hate the stuff. I may be biased
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
I've had the opposite experience as StevieC. I prefer no gasket as I've had gaskets leak but not RTV. Whatever you choose, degrease the mating surfaces.


I have done it with Permatex and had 0 issues as well, but I prefer the flat type gasket style shown above on transmissions that require regular fluid changes because I find when you try to pry off the pans where sealant is used they can sometimes bend in the process and then you need to smack it with a hammer to flatten them out and then there is all the cleaning of the pan and transmission to do. It's just easier to use one of these flat style gaskets. Just a preference but both work fine if done right.
grin2.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
I wouldn't use anything on a rubber gasket. Coat it in some ATF to help it seat in properly, torque to spec, done.

Disclaimer: I am anti RTV, absolutely hate the stuff. I may be biased

Well said.
 
I used to work at a good year store. We had trans filter kits made by "Champ". They had a cardboard like material. I bet I put on over 100 of those kits and not once did I have a leak.
 
OP here,

Thanks for all the comments.
As it stands right now, I will;

1) Completely clean and degrease
2) Make sure the Pan is 'flat' around the bolt holes
3) Not use any sealant on the Rubber Gasket
4) If I have any leakage, recheck torque
5) Use a sealant as a Plan B
 
I would suggest doing a few things differently from your list:

a) Use a gasket dressing like Trav said (he seriously knows his business, fyi). I use Permatex "aviation" #3, but it's about the same as what he recommended.

b) re-torque them after a day and after getting to temperature. The gasket will take a set and it will be under-torqued after a short while. This is a key to a long, leak-free life.

c) delete item 5. RTV is just a PITA for future service for reasons as StevieC said.
 
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OP here,

Well, I changed the Gasket and added some Magnets to the Transmission Pan.
Thanks all for the comments.

I ended up just using the Rubber Gasket with NO sealant or anything.
Completely cleaned mating surfaces and checked Pan for flatness.

Took for a 1/2 hour drive and didn't see any leaks.
I'll check again in 1 Week.

Cleaned and (3) Magnets added.
Also a Magnet in the Drain Plug from a previous mod.

 
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A little Hi-Tack is all I use for gaskets to hold them on unless OE calls for RTV. In that case, Toyota FIPG.
 
Originally Posted By: MasterSolenoid
OP here,

Well, I changed the Gasket and added some Magnets to the Transmission Pan.
Thanks all for the comments.

I ended up just using the Rubber Gasket with NO sealant or anything.
Completely cleaned mating surfaces and checked Pan for flatness.

Took for a 1/2 hour drive and didn't see any leaks.
I'll check again in 1 Week.


That's a clean pan!

When you check for leaks again (smart), don't just look but also re-torque them. Takes barely a minute to do once you are there, and you will be surprised.
 
I would use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to keep the gasket properly located on the pan. Gaskets are designed to fill in the minute surface variations found even on machined surfaces. Stamped oil pans can have even bigger irregularities but gaskets are designed to fill the irregularities when torqued to spec. That's right,that's right, I use a torque wrench. But I DON'T carry a purse.
 
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