DIY Penetrol, Fluid film, Krown, waxoyl, Sander's, Noxudol?

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I fell down another rabbit hole trying to decide which rust prevention product to use on my 97 cummins. The truck wont see snow or salt anytime soon but has a little rust I want to halt.

If I had a Krown dealer around here I would use them, but rust prevention is only as good as how diligent the applicator is.

Can anyone with DIY experience applying rust prevention oils or wax's(no paints encapsulation), comment on which DIY product they prefer, and any tips for application please?

Or does anyone have a link to a back to back performance test?

Thanks!
 
I made the switch to Fluid film three years ago. I bought the Pro Gun kit and get the 1 gallon cans from Napa.

I've used Krown and Rust Check before. They are ok, but some of the guys working there would miss spots, reinstalling plugs etc.

They charge $130-160 per vehicle up here and I can get two gallons of FF for $80 USD at Napa. Two gallons can easily do two vehicles. Gun was a one time purchase. I put the links below.

Also fluid film doesn't drip all over the place like Krown does. You can lay under the vehicle. spray it and it doesn't get all over you and the floor or driveway. If you do a good coat on the interior door panels, you can propably spray the door panels every second year.

You will have to spray the undercarriage every year.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FFQCNAS

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html
 
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I had my 1999 Dodge Ram w/Cummins sprayed several times with CarWell. It stopped what littel rust there was. I sold mine as it was 2WD and I wanted to go from a Jeep Grand Cherokee and the Dodge Ram to a single 3/4 ton pickup 4WD. My F250 is a lot quieter. Wife will ride in it. She would avoid the Dodge Ram if she could.
 
Here is my review on the Fluid Film Pro Gun


I purchased this kit directly from the maker, so, I am not a verified buyer. I have a 20+ year old truck which was falling apart due to rust. I got the kit, read the instructions a few times, watched some Youtube videos, then did a perfect, professional rustproofing job the first time. I powered the sprayer with an ancient air compressor rated at 4.5 CFM at 70 PSI. A larger compressor would be better, but, this worked OK. I just had to wait for the pressure to build up a few times. The beauty of Fluid Film is that it goes right over existing rust and soaks in, making the rust itself a corrosion barrier. The only surface prep was washing under the truck with a car wash wand and letting it dry a few days. This is so much fun I have sprayed friends trucks if they buy the Fluid Film. If you live in the " road salt rust belt " this is a must have for an older vehicle. For spraying inside the closed box frame rails, I folded and taped cardboard into a rectangular tube the same size as my frame rail. I used the extension wand to spray inside the frame rail "mockup", then opened it up and checked the spray pattern. Mine worked best at about 80 PSI. The flow valve on the sprayer will need adjusting to get the spray pattern you want. Thank you for reading my review :)


I have never used any other rustproofing method. The fluid film works so well for me I will stick with it.
 
Trav turned me on to this stuff. Rustproofing compound

I've done two vehicles with it, and the product is fantastic. My 08 Liberty is coming up on 11 years and has zero rust being used in NY winters. It isn't cheap but it works very well and lasts.
 
So far I have tried Fluid Film, Amsoil HDMP and Corrosion-X HD on 3 different vehicles.

I have had the best luck with and keep coming back to, Fluid Film. It is by far the best value, easiest to use and has the best attributes for a vehicle undercoating, IMO. Regular fluid film is not the most durable or longest lasting in the high wash areas of your undercarriage but the company makes another product called Fluid Film AR Gel that really holds up great for the high wash areas. For filling up enclosed spaces like frame cross members, rocker panels, inside doors, hoods and tailgates, fluid film works great. It has just the right combination of creep and cling for those areas.

I bought the Fluid Film Pro kit a few years ago and recently bought a harbor freight airless paint sprayer to apply it. I can get a 5 gallon bucket of fluid film for $160 on Jet or Ebay. I use the airless sprayer with a 217 tip and can completely re-coat the entire undercarriage of my crew cab, 6.4 foot bed Ram 1500 in about 30 minutes, only using about 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of fluid film.

Amsoil HDMP and Corrosion-X are great too but they cost about two to three times as much as Fluid Film, not to mention they do not have the penetrating and creeping abilities of Fluid Film either. The Amsoil and Corrosion-X also seem to do more damage to rubber than fluid film and fluid film is the only one that is non-toxic.

There is another product I would like to try called NH-OIL Undercoating. It is supposed to be very similar to Fluid Film but is based on refined mineral oil (Think Johnson's baby oil) but even that product costs about $50 a gallon compared to the $38 I pay for a gallon of fluid film.
 
Wow, thanks for all the suggestions people..

Originally Posted By: AMC
So far I have tried Fluid Film, Amsoil HDMP and Corrosion-X HD on 3 different vehicles.

I have had the best luck with and keep coming back to, Fluid Film.


I think I will use Fluid Film and their AR Gel as I keep reading good reviews.

My only reservation is I have a little rust starting under the driver door, and a tiny spot on the passenger front fender that I want to repair. I use marine epoxy instead of automotive polyester resin's but I figure I better fix these rust spots first, before getting them oily with fluid film.
 
Originally Posted By: Mikek13
Wow, thanks for all the suggestions people..

I think I will use Fluid Film and their AR Gel as I keep reading good reviews.

My only reservation is I have a little rust starting under the driver door, and a tiny spot on the passenger front fender that I want to repair. I use marine epoxy instead of automotive polyester resin's but I figure I better fix these rust spots first, before getting them oily with fluid film.


Yes go ahead and repair the rust first. Whichever method you use, paint or epoxy, let it dry at least 24 hrs before you apply Fluid Film or whichever oil based rust preventer you want to use.

If you are going to brush on the AR gel, do that first before you start spraying anything. Next do all the enclosed spaces and cavities of the vehicle, then start spraying the exposed undercarriage.

Some other notes about fluid film-

1. Get your undercarriage as clean and dry as possible before you start. You should wire brush flaky rust and pressure wash as much dirt grime off as you can. Then take the vehicle on a dry highway ride and let everything dry for 24 hours.

2. You will need to mix fluid film thoroughly as it gets thinner and easier to apply when it is agitated.

3. I recommend wearing a paper mask and junk clothes or a vinyl painting suit when you apply it. Safety Glasses and gloves are just going to get overspray on them every 2 seconds so don't bother. N95 respirators are just going to clog with the oil so don't bother with that either.

4. Get the fluid film all over everything except the exhaust and brakes once you start apply. The overspray that you do get on the exhaust or brakes, don't worry about it; It will just burn off. If your brakes sound or feel funny at the first ride after application, that means you got overspray on them but do not worry, it will burn off on the first few highway off ramp exits. If you take your first ride in stop and go city driving and during the daytime, other drivers will probably run up to you and tell you your car is smoking, this is very normal, don't worry about it and it will subside soon.

5. Your car will smell like fluid film for almost a month. I like the smell of it so it doesn't bother me. If it bothers you, keep the windows cracked and the A/C blasting.

6. Your undercarriage will catch and hold a light layer of dirt. The dirt actually helps the fluid film stay in place and protect the metal. This is normal and nothing to worry about. Large clumps of dirt and mud will rinse off easier than before you applied fluid film.

7. During winter, give your undercarriage a light rinse with a garden hose every month or so. This will remove the large build up of salt but won't remove the fluid film.

8. Once spring comes around and the snow is totally gone, thoroughly pressure wash your undercarriage and get everything as clean as you can. Re-apply another light coat of fluid film and this will protect you until next winter when you will want to apply another heavier coat before it starts snowing.
 
Fluid Film is very easy, non-toxic and it will "creep" quite a bit. I find application at home with a harbor freight airless paint sprayer works well. Do it on a hot day for easiest priming and mix the can frequently. Use a couple cans of aerosol, as needed, with the "wand" attachment to get inside rockers/docks/frames.

After you are done go get the car nice and dusty. It'll tack up the FF nicely and keep everything in place. The "creep" will help cover any spots you didn't hit well.
 
Originally Posted by Oldtom
Here is my review on the Fluid Film Pro Gun


I purchased this kit directly from the maker, so, I am not a verified buyer. I have a 20+ year old truck which was falling apart due to rust. I got the kit, read the instructions a few times, watched some Youtube videos, then did a perfect, professional rustproofing job the first time. I powered the sprayer with an ancient air compressor rated at 4.5 CFM at 70 PSI. A larger compressor would be better, but, this worked OK. I just had to wait for the pressure to build up a few times. The beauty of Fluid Film is that it goes right over existing rust and soaks in, making the rust itself a corrosion barrier. The only surface prep was washing under the truck with a car wash wand and letting it dry a few days. This is so much fun I have sprayed friends trucks if they buy the Fluid Film. If you live in the " road salt rust belt " this is a must have for an older vehicle. For spraying inside the closed box frame rails, I folded and taped cardboard into a rectangular tube the same size as my frame rail. I used the extension wand to spray inside the frame rail "mockup", then opened it up and checked the spray pattern. Mine worked best at about 80 PSI. The flow valve on the sprayer will need adjusting to get the spray pattern you want. Thank you for reading my review :)


I have never used any other rustproofing method. The fluid film works so well for me I will stick with it.

Can I use a spray gun when I use Fluid Film as an undercoating?
How long can I let Fluid Film sit?
 
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