Buying car parts: go cheap, mid grade or expensive?
- Thread starter ZZman
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That all depends. My old Marauder? $8 upper ball joint from RockAuto.
My Volt? All OEM. Besides, the OE wheel bearing I just bought for it was $62.99 vs. over $100 for an SKF or the like. OEM isn't always more money.
A lot of it depends on what kind of vehicle said part is being installed on. Some cars just aren't worth the expense of better parts.
My Volt? All OEM. Besides, the OE wheel bearing I just bought for it was $62.99 vs. over $100 for an SKF or the like. OEM isn't always more money.
A lot of it depends on what kind of vehicle said part is being installed on. Some cars just aren't worth the expense of better parts.
OEM stuff. Sometimes it's expensive.
Quality counts.
Quality pays for itself.
Unless you wanna do it twice.
Of course the most expensive in not necessarily the best...
But I strive to use "at least good enough".
I have never been sorry that I bought a quality part.
I have been sorry I settled...
Quality pays for itself.
Unless you wanna do it twice.
Of course the most expensive in not necessarily the best...
But I strive to use "at least good enough".
I have never been sorry that I bought a quality part.
I have been sorry I settled...
parts that have a known bad reputation for aftermarket, I go a little more high end. Example, items with sensitive electronics, i.e. distributor where the remans are so horrible. Items like fuel pump... Sometimes this varies from make and model to the part itself. For example, don't go cheap on VW fuel pump. Don't know if the same is true for other brands.
Parts that are just a big honkin piece of metal that's easy to swap in and out, I tend to go cheaper and look for value/quality combo. Everything else, low to mid end. The more labor it is to replace, or leave me broke down, the more likely I am to spend a little more to make it right
Parts that are just a big honkin piece of metal that's easy to swap in and out, I tend to go cheaper and look for value/quality combo. Everything else, low to mid end. The more labor it is to replace, or leave me broke down, the more likely I am to spend a little more to make it right
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Whipcitywrencher
Site Donor 2024
If it's a easy part to replace, I'll go cheap.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
A friend of mine went cheap on a starter for a Honda CRV. The replacement didn't last one year and
replacing it is a pain in the butt.
replacing it is a pain in the butt.
OEM or aftermarket upgrade.
Depends.
Non critical parts on old cars, that I don't mind doing twice, junkyard or cheap.
Anything to do with engine calibration or known to be bad aftermarket, OEM.
Usually go by word of mouth on the owners forums.
Non critical parts on old cars, that I don't mind doing twice, junkyard or cheap.
Anything to do with engine calibration or known to be bad aftermarket, OEM.
Usually go by word of mouth on the owners forums.
I prefer soft cheap brake pads. After the 150Kmile timing belt change on the last 528e, I used only used parts for its last 5yrs.
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
If it's a easy part to replace, I'll go cheap.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
This. +1
If it's a easy part to replace, I'll go cheap.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
This. +1
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
It all depends on the part and what kind of car. O2 sensors, thermostats, spark plugs, and motor mounts I only use OEM. Anything else I'll use decent aftermarket parts.
I used 2 A1 Cardone reman power steering pumps that were trash for my Jeep, ended up getting a ridiculously priced one from the dealer. The Jeep has Raybestos rotors, Bosch brake pads, Timken wheel bearings, Monroe shocks, Moog control arms and track bar, etc. All work great and I didn't completely empty my wallet on dealer parts for those.
I used 2 A1 Cardone reman power steering pumps that were trash for my Jeep, ended up getting a ridiculously priced one from the dealer. The Jeep has Raybestos rotors, Bosch brake pads, Timken wheel bearings, Monroe shocks, Moog control arms and track bar, etc. All work great and I didn't completely empty my wallet on dealer parts for those.
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
If it's a easy part to replace, I'll go cheap.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
same here. the alternator on my 96 F150 went out 2 years ago and i used the cheapest rebuild i could find because it took less than an hour to replace. Still going strong.
If it's a easy part to replace, I'll go cheap.
Hard to replace parts are usually OEM or equivalent.
same here. the alternator on my 96 F150 went out 2 years ago and i used the cheapest rebuild i could find because it took less than an hour to replace. Still going strong.
It all depends.
Once-bitten, twice shy.
If it's a bearing I'll usually try to buy just the bearing rather than the whole assembly, and I'll go to a bearing house about 10 miles away, or maybe online.
Some of the best parts for my (now old) motorcycle were made by American one-man shops.
Once-bitten, twice shy.
If it's a bearing I'll usually try to buy just the bearing rather than the whole assembly, and I'll go to a bearing house about 10 miles away, or maybe online.
Some of the best parts for my (now old) motorcycle were made by American one-man shops.
I feel most stuff is pretty much the same...so I usually go cheap. Has not bit me in the [censored] yet
But as others said it also depends on the car. My wifes new Fit...will get pretty much the best stuff for the next several years at least.
But as others said it also depends on the car. My wifes new Fit...will get pretty much the best stuff for the next several years at least.
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