New honda 5.5 engine. Break-in?

[greencrew]

I just brought home a new 21" Craftsman lawn mower. It's my first new push lawn mower. I'll be starting it tomorrow and thinking about the break-in of the engine.

I have read that most likely a inexpensive lawn mower engine is not run on a bench before assembled and I may be starting it for the first time.

I also read that it is important to idle it easy to break in the bearings, yet to acclerate hard to break in the rings. Any ideas on this?

 

[tundra30]

Is that the Honda GCV160? That's a good engine IMO. I beleive that manual on that engine says do the first change after 5 hrs. of use. I would put in some dino, mow the yard (not any real thick stuff), then change the oil. Mow a couple more times, change again, and then go with a synthetic about every 20 hrs of use.

 

[Bror Jace]

greencrew, I think the most critical thing to do is that first short-interval oil change. Carefully examine the oil which comes out in the bright sunlight. I bet it's full of glitter.

I might even change the oil after only 3-4 hours of run time.

If you want to go overboard, use a top-cylinder lube in the fuel during that time as well. You could even pull the spark plug, add a teaspoon of marvel Mystery Oil directly to the cylinder and pull it over several times (slowly) to prevent a dry start. Put the plug back in and start it. Expect a little smoke if you do this, however.

As for running it, I wouldn't go 100% throttle for the first drain interval unless the setting is like ours which has essentuially two speeds: idle and operating speed ... which is about 85% power. Then that's OK.

--- Bror Jace

 

[greencrew]

I don't know how to determine if it is a GCV160. All the manual says is that I have a motor.

I don't think I have much for top cylinder lube laying around, except for 2 cycle oil.
There is Neutra in the gas, but I suppose that won't make a difference.

 

[Pablo]

I have a couple of those Honda 5.5 (160's).

I love the little OHC monsters. Run synthetic oil after the first oil change or two. I didn't see the glitter but I changed soon and repeated.

One tip, clean gas and good air filtration are important.

OK Two tips: This engine REALLY responds to a fresh spark plug. Just throw a new NGK BP6ES in every year - I went two years in my mower and noticed it was bogging a bit. New spark plug made a HUGE difference.

OK THREE tips: They do put out more with better fuel.

4? Mine seems to like fuel additives more than my car - for sure the pressure washer engine really liked Amsoil PI.

 

[greencrew]

Ok, yes it does say 160 on the engine. I'm glad to hear it good comments on the engine.

I started it this morning a ran around with it a bit. I had trouble starting it due to my own oversite. I concentrated on the oil, gas, shut off valve, choke, and making sure it did not have a prime that I forgot to pull down on the red handle.

I must have pulled the cord 25 times when my wife walked up the driveway back from her morning jog, watched me for a moment, and asked: "don't you have to put a bungie cord around the red handle like you did on the other one?" At that point I pulled down the red handle, started it on the first pull, and responded: "Yes you are right, that's what I needed."

I find it interesting that there is no way to control the speed, it's either off, choked, or on.

I then took my time pushing it into fresh grass making the engine work, stopping and waiting for the grass to clear, then taking another bit. I figured that was the closed I could come to stop and go traffic. I made sure I ran it for almost an hour the first time.

I think I'll run it one more time, change the oil again with HD30, and then run that the rest of the summer and then change to Mobil 1 0w-30 which I already have on the shelf for my riding lawn mower.

Thanks for the tips and comments.

 

[Bror Jace]

"... the red handle ..."

Are you referring to the infamous Honda kill (run/off) switch?

That lil' sucker will stump you every time.

Oh, and Neutra 131 claims to be an upper cylinder lubricant.

--- Bror Jace

 

[darrenc]

The GCV160 is a very nice motor for the homeowner. Those that run the commercial Honda motor poo poo the GCV due to its consumer-oriented nature. But, compared to any Briggs I’ve ever owned or ran, the Honda’s superior design and quality are so superior it’s a joke. I ran a brand new Briggs Intek (OHV) 6.5 hp. motor in a pressure washer this past weekend and was surprised at how inferior it was to my Honda. It was very, very loud, its exhaust stunk, it backfired on shutoff, and couldn’t idle at a low rpm to save its life. In contrast, the Honda’s are quiet, powerful, fuel efficient, low emission, and start on the first pull. In fairness to the Briggs, I’m sure it is durable, as all my Briggs have been.
I changed the oil on mine after the first run, then again after about 5 hours. For the brake-in oil, I ran Chevron 10W-30. After brake-in I run Amsoil 15W-40 synthetic + 1 oz. Schaeffer’s 132. I change this brew annually. The recommended change interval on the GCV motors is 50 hours. I only put about 25 hours on the motor annually, so annual changes work fine for me. Neutra in the gas has worked great for me this season.

 

[greencrew]

It's been a dry summer, so I finally ran it the second time. Not it's time to drain the oil for summber. I ran it a little with my Neutra gas mix that I use before winter storage.

I'm in the house because I could not find the drain plug. I had to read the manual to figure out how to get the oil out. I lauged when I read to remove the fill plug and tip the mower over. Well, I suppose it has cooled down a bit now, back to work.

 

[KW]

If you ever change the oil in it, it is more than most do. But like others have said run it for a few hours then change the oil to you favorite brand. Then change it every fall and the engine should last longer than the chassis. My mowers are spoiled to M1 but what the heck.

 

[Propflux01]

Run the engine like it will always be run.just vary the throttle back and forth a few times the first time you run it to seat the rings on both sides. you want pressure on it so the rings seal like the mower would normally do. and then change the oil after the first lawn or two. Dino or synthetic, as long as it is a quality brand.

 

[65hoss]

Those are great motors. I have a few of them on my aerators. Been bullit proof for several years. I put more hours on them a year than most people will in a lifetime. I use Opti-4 on all my aircooled motors and have never had a problem with any motor yet. My 23 HP kawi down to the 5.5 hondas, all get Opti-4.

 

[Bror Jace]

"I use Opti-4 on all my aircooled motors and have never had a problem with any motor yet."

65Hoss, what is is this Opti-4 oil of which you speak? An OEM oil sold by Honda? What weight do you use?

I don't think you could get me away from my Schaeffer 15W40 ... but I'm curious.

--- Bror Jace