Kawasaki engine problems - opinions please

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This is non oil related, but here it goes.

I have a John Deere 725 "almost commercial" ($10,000) front mower with a 20 horse Kawasaki engine. It will be 6 years old this fall. It has only 350 hours on it, is maintained very good (fluids, filters, adjustments, etc..

The Kawasaki engine started spewing coolant all over last week. The repair bill was $840. Parts $350, rest was labor. Here is what was done/said:

New water pump - was told this one rarely lasted over 500 hours.

Associated gaskets - originals were "flimsy paper" that disinegrate often. New ones are re-designed.

NEW CAM SHAFT - original was composite (plastic) we/they recommend replacement with new metal one whenever engine is opened up - because of expected premature failure of plastic one.

Finally - PTO clutch is on the way out - moisture often gets in the "sealed" bearings and it is toast. This is not an engine part and was not replaced.


Opinions wanted. Dealer said JD corp. doesn't "assist" repair costs past five years, regardless of hours. Waiting for territory reps. ruling.

Shouldn't these parts last more than 350 hrs. regardless of age? What about the admitted bad parts? Dealer said JD often specs. out Kawasaki build. Is JD responsible for some of these repairs or am I just screwed. I wish this equipment had Tech. Service Bulletins(public access)like autos.


Suggestions or comments please.
 
doit,

I have the JD 455. I know I have a coolant leak, which is most likely the water pump. I found your post most interesting to read. I don't know if JD should chip in on the cost or not, but I expect to go the the same thing some time soon. Did they give you any encouragement that the new water pump will last longer then the one they replaced?

I was surprised to hear about the composite crank. I wonder if I have that also in my 22hp fuel injected version of the kawasaki.

I run Mobil 1 0w-30 in mine, and plan to treat it with Auto-RX in July and run it for the last half of the season, and change the oil in the fall. I'll also do an oil analysis to see how this one oil change a year is working.

I wonder about the PTO clutch though. How did the know it was on its way out? Will the new one last about as long? Did you change your hydro fluid? I would hate to think that I have to replace that thing a few times, this tractor could be expensive to run.
 
I was told the composite crank was an attempt to make the engine more quiet.

I did not inqire yet if the new water pump is better - I hope so.

The PTO clutch is somewhat noisy all the time (engaged or not). Dealer said it could last 2 weeks or two years. It engages and runs just fine, its just a bit noisy. It is not rebuildable, so I can just pop a new unit on myself, I hope.

I check the hydro fluid annually and replace it every two years max. - way below the 400 hours recommendation in the manual. I found the fluid tends to get milky (H20 accumulation) if I go longer.
 
I don't know if my comment is applicable to your situation but here goes - I have a LX178 mower that uses a 15HP 2 cylinder liquid cooled Kawasaki engine with the radiator mounted on the top of the engine. I've had this mower for nearly 10 years and it gets used very heavily. I used to change my coolant annually up until 1996 when I read about newer OAT type of coolants. I have since done only 2 coolant changes on this engine using Glysantin G-30 and it seems to work great. I have not had any mechanical failures at all. I've never replaced a head gasket (common problem), or had a hose deteriorate. I have had to replace drive belt bearings and deck bearings a few times and have kept the fluid changed in the hydrostatic transmission on a biennial basis. I bought my JD because of their strong reputation and I have not been disappointed in the least.
 
I'll agree with FowVeh....

I've got a JD 345 with the 20hp Kawasaki. Not one problem with it. I change oil and filter, lube and PM checks per the manual. I'm now at 250+ hours and its running strong.

Note: I checked with the dealer when I got it on the oil to use. There's a sticker with a 10W-30 recommendation on the engine. The handbook states another weight, 30 weight, I think. I use 10W-30 per the sticker and dealer's recommendation.

If your cam went bad and you are using a lighter weight oil (0W-30)or a higher weight oil (10W-40), that could be the reason. Japanese and German engineers are pretty smart about what is needed in their designs. I'd use what the manual (or engine label)recommends.

Coolant leaks are another issue. If its leaking you are asking for a rebuild if you don't fix the leak. These things have such a tiny capacity that the loss of a pint may be significant.

[ June 15, 2003, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Silber Igel ]
 
This is way off topic but I have to ask a question of "silber Igel" -

Since you wrote my name in another phonetical way I am wondering if you're name was derived from the German language. Does your screen name represent "silver eagle" or were you possibly going for the German definition which is "silver hedgehog"? Sorry if I'm way off base here but your name struck me as quite funny.
grin.gif


[ June 15, 2003, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: FowVay ]
 
FowVay,

What oil do you change your hydro with? My book says not to change it-does yours? I have the LX188.

Have you had any other problems?

richard

[ June 17, 2003, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: fields ]
 
Yes, my book also says not to change the hydrostatic oil but the mfgr of the transmission, TuffTorq, says to use 10W-30 motor oil for the change. Here is a direct quote from their web page:

Included oil is 10w30 engine oil that is commonly available, 5w50 synthetic oil is available for ground engaging applications.
 
FowVey,

Its me.... you found me out. Silber_Igel is indeed the one and same "silver hedgehog" (after the silver new beetle I have). Also, its a pun on "silver eagle."

Small world, eh? Or we have limited lives...

rolleyes.gif


[ June 27, 2003, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: Silber Igel ]
 
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