2002 VolvoPenta 5.0 GXi (270 HP, Gasoline)

[DockHoliday]

I have twin 2002 VolvoPenta 5.0 GXi (270 HP) Gasoline engines (Chevy 305 block) in my express cruiser. The VP owner's manual recommends SAE 30 synthetic oil (their brand of course), or 20W50, or 15W50 Synthetic oils. The manual also states "Use single viscosity oils in markets where available. The use of multi-viscosity oils, such as 10W30 and 10W40, is not recommended unless single viscosity oils are not available."

I find this very odd. Mercruiser, which sells the same basic engine (sourced from GM), recommends dino 15W40.

My question is: would Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W40 be a decent choice for these motors? They are used almost excusively on weekends, for only short periods at a time, and run very cool (140-160). I really hate to put a thicker oil in there since they are not run daily (i.e. oil starvation at startup), for long durations, or at high temps.

Thanks in advance.

[ June 25, 2003, 01:15 AM: Message edited by: DockHoliday ]

 

[sub_zero]

Are these powerplants intended for commercial or consumer use, per the documentation supplied? It does seem odd, as you've noted that the call out is for a straight weight lube. Certainly a straight weight in continuous service is more durable, but for your application it seems that a multigrade would be more suitable. I would contact volvo for a comprehensive understanding, reference the manual recommendation.

 

[DockHoliday]

Sub - These motors are for recreational boaters and are in a 28 foot, 8000 lb boat. Cruise speed is around 3,200 RPM (30 MPH).

Some people have equated that work load of a boat motor to that of a pick up truck pulling a trailer up hill 100% of the time. There is no coasting, always encurring high drag (due to the water).

There is always a dino vs. syn debate amongst boaters because recreational boats aren't used in cold weather, and the engines are cooled by lake water and the USCG mandates a 160 thermastate. Thus, boat motors do not need the extreme temp advantages of synthetics.

Boaters commonly use straight 30 or 40 dino. I have in the past, and have always used Mobil 1 5W30 in my cars. However, this boat is brand spanking new and I want to make sure I get her lubbed properly.

The reason I am lookin gat the Rotella is because it is so affordable. Wally world has it for around $12 per gallon, which is a lot less that Amsoil, plus it is also more convenient to purchase. Keep in mind that I need 12 quarts per oil change.

 

[JonS]

There was a small write up in Trailer Boats magazine about this. It said that straight weights are used because boats run cooler (140-160) and thus the oil never gets that hot. So if you would use a multi-weight, your oil would be not up to 212f (where the vis is measured), so if you picked a 5w-40 oil and your temps were at 140, you would not have a very thick viscosity.

 

[DockHoliday]

If the Rotella multi-vis oil is a no go, then I will probably order either RedLine or RP 30W synthetic.

Any thoughts on these two oils?

 

[Steve S]

The oil in your engines will get hot , Any heavy duty fleet oil will work well Rotella, Delo,Amsoil etc in 15w/40 or 40 depending on climate. Marine engines are brutal on the oil . Don't be cheap on the oil changes . Rotella syn. would work. Send us in some oil anaylsis results so we can see the results. If you want to $pend some extra $$$ 10w/30 redline or Amsoil hdd o5w?30 may be interesting as to factory 30 weight recommendation.

 

[Schmoe]

I'd go with the Pennz. straight 40. I've used that a lot in the past and no problems. Oil pressure at both idle and running hard remain around 40 psi. The less VI's the better for boats. To me, changing oil from my boat is easier that the cars. I have one of those Mercruiser screw-on-the-dipstick-oil-remover things. Works so well, spill not a drop. Since you said recreation, you'll probably be like the rest of us........change oil and filter prior to winter storage. Fresh oil, whether it's dino or syn., will protect the engine all winter long, and especially if you fog the engine prior to hibernation.

Had the privilage to take my friend 30 ft. cat with twin 454's, bravo drives out last weekend.
God, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Never been 70 mph on water before. Ask the wife if we could sell the house and buy the boat, but you know THAT didn't work.

Oh well, I tried.

 

[userfriendly]

Dock;
I think your original choice was the best one. Rotella syn 5W40.
I see someone posted a used oil analysis a day or two ago on that very same oil.
I have run group III HDMO "synthetics" for a few years myself and have quite a few others switched over.
They all love the stuff whether it is Chevron's Delo 5W40, Esso/Exxon's 0W40 XD-3, Shell's Rotella syn, or from the well in our back yard...Petro-Canada's Duron 5W40.
I think MObil has a 5W40 Delvac, which is more expensive than the above mentioned oils because it is manufactured from PAO group IV base stocks.
The above advice of running a straight SAE 30 or 40 is a good alternative, especially until the engine(s) are broke-in. If you are using straight weights, I think it is a good idea to give the engine some warm-up time with slow lake-plowing before working the boat too hard.
Why do they call Chicago them windy city?

 

[darrenc]

I've got the same (well almost) motor in my 19 foot Four Winns Runabout. It's the 5.0 Gi (TBI instead of your port injection, 250 hp). I run Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil in this unit. I do this for a couple of reasons. 1. it uses very few viscosity improvers, and 2. is has a very robust additive package that includes terrific corrosion inhibitors (important in wet environments).

I change it once per year. In the three years of use, the motor runs like brand spankin new. This is the only oil I will use in a marinized automotive crate motor. If you go to Trailer Boats magazine's web site, or if you go to boatfix.com, you will find many informed boaters that prefer this oil over the others mentioned above.

Now, the small print...I don't sell Amsoil or have any business relationship with them other than buying this fine oil.

 

[DockHoliday]

darrenc - I am active on both BE and TBM. Do you ever go to www.boatingabc.com? That is a very nice website, with a great group of boaters. ABC is where I found out about this website.

I am considering using Amsoil, but I would really rather purchase my oil locally. I hate mail ordering because UPS rarely leaves the package on the stoop, so I have to drive 10 miles in rush hour to stand in line to get my package. If I can get an equivalent oil locally, then I will.

 

[Steve S]

Dock Holiday, think about this,if people use fleet oils in $25,000.00+ engines are they up to snuff?

 

[darrenc]

Dock,

Thanks for the URL. I've not seen it before. I understanding the shipping issue. George Van Pares of Boat Fix endorses the use of fleet type oils (15W-40 types) and he also likes the Mobil 1 15W-50. Generally, I think any of these would be fine. Good luck. What type of Cruser do you have?

Darren

 

[DockHoliday]

darrenc - Keep in mind that GVP also recommends Slick50. Also, if you register at ABC,you will get a very warm welcome (the admin is great). Also, just post that Dock sent ya.

I have a 2002 Chaparral 280 Signature.

I will go with Amsoil if I can determine that it is significantly better than OTC products (such as the fleet oils). Also, while boat motors have a harder life than cars, I am not convinced that the oils in these engines have a harder life than there automotive counterparts. I expect that the oil in my turbocharged car (247 HP inline 5) has a very tough life.

[ June 26, 2003, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: DockHoliday ]

 

[darrenc]

Dock.

Good point on the Slick 50!!! I’ve forgotten about that.

Very nice boat! Trailerable?

Boat oils get beat up because, among all the normal reasons, they also get pretty hot. Engine doesn't get hot, but the oil does. Little air circulation in the engine compartment so the pan becomes a real heat sink.

Your Volvo isn't has hard on oil as you would think. It's large 6 Q capacity (for a small 2.3L) gives it a fairly long life span. I can go 10K miles on my S70 T5 using Amsoil ATM (10W-30) and the oil is still in very good shape, as confirmed by analysis. I’m testing some Schaeffer’s 7000 Supreme 10W-30 right now. I’ll be curious how it holds up under extended drains.

 

[DockHoliday]

darrenc - Thanks. No, it is not trailerable - 10' beam, 8,000 lbs.

BTW - I am about to pull the trigger on ordering a new Volvo S60 R (300 HP, AWD).

 

[userfriendly]

I'm kinda on a single grade kick at the moment and saving the expensive synthetics for cooler weather.
Just for the heck of it why not put in a high 30 or low 40 straight weight and see how it stands up against the others.
I bought a pail of BP marine DS3-153 last year that sits un-opened. It was only $2.60 CDN/litre or $1.82 U$D.
TBN=15.0
SA=2.1
cSt 100/11.5
flash 220C
I'm curious to see what the BOBZOIL SAE 30 typicals are.
Quite often the single dinos have the highest flash points some up round 270C which tells me their high tempature compatability.
I'd hold off on the UOAs until the engine had a couple of changes and 100 hrs on the $$$ meter so comparisons would be of some value.
I cannot for the life of me grasp the value of extended drain intervals in an expensive toy like a boat.
If your old used oil is still pretty good then give it to someone needy. Like me.
I'll put in in an old beater.
Why did the marine engine builders pick the chev 305 instead of the stronger 68-72 307 block?

 

[DockHoliday]

userfriendly - Mercruise and Volvo-Penta simply purchase the engines from GM. In the past, both companies did a lot of work on the motors (i.e. I believe they used to buy the blocks and add the rest), but VolvoPenta (and a few others) were big on Ford. However, in the last 5 years or so, GM got serious about the marine market and started selling complete engines (including EFI/MPI) that included the Vortec heads. As a result, Ford no longer sells any marine motors (that I am aware of), and most engine builders simply paint the GM engine (VP=Red, Merc=Blue).

The current engines are quite good. The 5.0 puts out 270 HP, the 5.7 puts out 320, and the 8.1 puts out 375 base, or 425 in HO form. They are also reliable and smooth running. GM's new 6.0 litre is just starting to come out in boats, and will probably hit the ski boat market first. The problem with this motor is that it contains alot of aluminum (heads, not sure about the block), so it is not a good choice for salt water applications.

 

[darrenc]

Good luck on the R. I saw Bobby Rahal testing the S60 R at Willow Springs on the Speed Channel. He and the other tester had nice things to say about it. I only wish Volvo would put their engines in the right orientation and drive the proper wheels. I’m never too satisfied with the way FWDs and their derivatives drive.

On your Chap, I’d still vote for the Amsoil 15W-40 with the big filter. I’m currently running a Wix, but I might switch to the K&N for their higher flow. Good luck.

 

[fields]

What is the "big filter" for these 305 and350 engines? I have an 1998 Volvo 350.

richard

 

[darrenc]

Sorry. It’s the AC Delco PF35 or equivalents.