GM Ecotec 2.4 - Cracked Exhaust Manifold

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The driver was complaining of a check engine light and a rough-running engine at idle. I scanned and found a P0171. L/T trims were 29% and S/T were 24% and the engine ran noticeably rough at idle. At 2500 rpm, the trims improve significantly and are down to single digits. I did notice at idle that the MAF reads .001 lb (seems low) and the IAT seemed to be 20-30F higher than it should be, so I think this is an area that warrants further investigation.

However, I did a visual inspection and was advised to check for exhaust manifold cracks. As you can see above, this one is clearly cracked. Unfortunately this vehicle is outside of the 10/120k warranty extension.. I sprayed a hydrocarbon in the crack and did see the s/t fuel trim begin to slowly trend negative, so I think there is a small leak. I did not hear any exhaust leaks though, which is odd.

My question is this: would it be feasible to take off the exhaust manifold and have the crack welded? A new manifold is only sold with a catalytic converter, and in CA that assembly would list for $1100.
 
I do remember my Father repairing these, during WW2, with furnace cement. The repair would actually last a long time. Surely in this day of epoxy there is a product that could work.
Sorry just a trip down memory lane.

Smoky the old dude
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic

My question is this: would it be feasible to take off the exhaust manifold and have the crack welded? A new manifold is only sold with a catalytic converter, and in CA that assembly would list for $1100.


I'm pretty sure my brother could do it and I also have a co-worker who is a welding expert. Too bad they don't live close to you.
Nothing like this at a local salvage yard or do your laws not allow this to be installed from a donor vehicle?
 
It can be welded but that is a higher heat and stress area. A hole will need to be drilled at either end of the crack then the crack welded. Some sort of thicker metal overlay should be put over the area to reinforce it and relieve the stress or it will crack next to the weld.
You need a good welder not some hack. Do not mess around with cement, epoxies, and all the rest of it, it wont last longer than a snowball in Hades.
 
A used one from a wrecking yard would be best. Get on the Pick and Pull website and search your car. If you don’t have time Pick and Pull have “pullers” who will wrench one out for you for a reasonable fee.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Dorman doesn't sell something like that?



LOL! It will be cracked in half then.
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
A used one from a wrecking yard would be best. Get on the Pick and Pull website and search your car. If you don’t have time Pick and Pull have “pullers” who will wrench one out for you for a reasonable fee.


Not happening in CA, it has the cat attached.
 
Quicksteel or other exhaust manifold sealants really do work. Of course make sure to drill the ends of the crack, clean all rust off and follow other instructions. They really do “cure” and turn rock hard from the heat. However they look ugly.
 
Why not just wire brush the rust off the area and put some of that high temperature manifold repair stuff?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
A used one from a wrecking yard would be best. Get on the Pick and Pull website and search your car. If you don’t have time Pick and Pull have “pullers” who will wrench one out for you for a reasonable fee.


Not happening in CA, it has the cat attached.


Selling used cats is verboten by the EPA anyway(not to bring in politics but the current EPA might overturn this).

Luckily a 2008 car only needs to do CA BAR-OIS and not the sniffer/dyno. But any good smog tech who cares about his/her smog license will still check for a cat and make sure it's OEM or has a CARB EO number on it. You never know if a customer is an mule for CARB/BAR to sniff out bad shops.

You *could* drive to Oregon or Nevada and get an aftermarket EPA-compliant cat installed but it will not flow as well as OEM nor last as long. CARB-compliant cats have more precious metal in their washcoats.
 
Since the car is over the 10/120k, what is the actual condition and status of the car?

Seems to me that if there are big issues in CA with replacement parts, the worst thing that can happen, assuming the area is relatively accessible, is that you try to do a half decent repair and then buy some time for the buyer to decide what to do.

I paid around $1600 for an OE cat assembly for my 91 318i with 130k or so on it. I drove that car a LOT more and so it was a decent investment. This car may or may not be so good.

Id probably try to drill relief holes at the ends of the crack, then fill the crack if I couldnt find someone to weld it.
 
Magnaflow makes a CARB cat manifold for this application, if it's what I think it is (2008-era Malibu and clones). It's about $600

If it's the PZEV model, then it may not work, but in that case there is a 15-year/150k warranty
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
A used one from a wrecking yard would be best. Get on the Pick and Pull website and search your car. If you don’t have time Pick and Pull have “pullers” who will wrench one out for you for a reasonable fee.


Not happening in CA, it has the cat attached.


Selling used cats is verboten by the EPA anyway(not to bring in politics but the current EPA might overturn this).

Luckily a 2008 car only needs to do CA BAR-OIS and not the sniffer/dyno. But any good smog tech who cares about his/her smog license will still check for a cat and make sure it's OEM or has a CARB EO number on it. You never know if a customer is an mule for CARB/BAR to sniff out bad shops.

You *could* drive to Oregon or Nevada and get an aftermarket EPA-compliant cat installed but it will not flow as well as OEM nor last as long. CARB-compliant cats have more precious metal in their washcoats.
if it does not have the correct carb numbers on it the smog guy will fail it.
 
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