Diesel oil in a Harley?
- Thread starter HAWG4LIFE
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both are slow turning, high torque motors.
what more needs to be thought out?
what more needs to be thought out?
Harley does recommend in their owner's manuals that if you dont have access to one of their oils, that you use a diesel rated oil in a pinch. Now, obviously they want you to buy their oils cuz they "have been factory approved". But in reality I would think that diesel oils would be a good substitute due to their robust additive package.
The HDEO 15w40 s will run good in the EVO engines but the TC88 should have 20w50 synthetic but will run on 15w40 HDEO's in a pinch but you need to reduce OCI due to the high heat stress on the oil from the TC88. But for $7/gallon vs $8/qt.......what the problem officer?
When I had my 98 FLHT, the oil pressure with Mobil 1 15-50 was ok, but would go down to about 5psi at hot idle. I do realize that roller bearing motors don't require a lot of oil pressure, but 5psi used to scare me. I changed to Redline 20-50, and doubled my hot idle oil pressure. If I had to use a HDEO in a pinch, I wouldn't waste any time changing it out. On my 03 Fatboy, I use Redline 20-50 in the winter and 20-60 in the summer. The TC motors have a much more modern oil pump assembly, which is better in every way compared to the EVO oil pump assembly. Higher flow and pressure are necessary because of the piston oil squirters.
HAWG4LIFE..you can probably run the 15-40 in winter but after March or April go to the 20-50..and in a TC88 I'de use a synthetic..not Harleys oil..the TC88 injects oil to the bottom of the pistons to cool them..if you ever get into a parade mode in 80*-90* weather like you will a lot in Bama, you'll be sorry you put diesel oil in the Harley..I've been there and done that..If I had the TC88 I'de run the M1 20-50 MC oil or Redline 20-50..all the time.
please explain how a 20w50 is gonna "cool" the motor so much more than 15w40 is when oil is a poor coolant to being with???
and then, please tell me how this heat absorbing 20w50 then gets rid of all that energy, because it can't hold it forever!
and then, please tell me how this heat absorbing 20w50 then gets rid of all that energy, because it can't hold it forever!
Technically the 20w50 doesn't cool better. It has a higher viscosity at higher temperatures. If your engine is running say 240 degrees or higher, the film strenght/thicknes will be thicker for the 20w50. So you would have better protection during high heat times.
I was wondering in your initial post if you were trying to compare synthetic 20w50 to synthetic 15w40? Those would be a good match/substitute. Like Amsoils AME 15w40 vs the AMV/MCF products.
I ran Amsoil's 15w40 AME in my oil cooled BMW for a obout 7,000 miles. I never did have it analyized though. But I'm sure it was fine, as I did have the 10w40 analyized and it was in good shape after 9400 miles.
BTW that BMW called for 20w50 as well.
Amsoil's newer MCV 20W-50 would be a better choice than their older AMV 20W-50.
"Technically the 20w50 doesn't cool better. It has a higher viscosity at higher temperatures. If your engine is running say 240 degrees or higher, the film strenght/thicknes will be thicker for the 20w50. So you would have better protection during high heat times."
Thanks MSParks..this is what I was refering to..plus if I had a TC88 I'de get a Harley oil cooler no matter where in the country I lived..Just my opinion based on 38 years of having a sore butt...
Thanks MSParks..this is what I was refering to..plus if I had a TC88 I'de get a Harley oil cooler no matter where in the country I lived..Just my opinion based on 38 years of having a sore butt...
Here is what I'd use if I had a TC-88 or any big twin: http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/9001.pdf
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I use Redline MTL in the primary and Shockproof heavy in the transmission. When I did most of my engine work, I installed a primary chain hydraulic adjuster, and then switched to MTL. I don't know which product made a difference, but the shifting was much improved. It was probably the adjuster that made the difference.
I use Redline MTL in the primary and Shockproof heavy in the transmission. When I did most of my engine work, I installed a primary chain hydraulic adjuster, and then switched to MTL. I don't know which product made a difference, but the shifting was much improved. It was probably the adjuster that made the difference.
MSparks,
Did your BMW have a shared sump? My understanding is that many of these BMW's have separate transmission oil, which enables you to go longer on an engine oil change.
Did your BMW have a shared sump? My understanding is that many of these BMW's have separate transmission oil, which enables you to go longer on an engine oil change.
BMW's have a separate Engine and Transmission oil. As far as going longer, I don't know about that. I've gone over 6,000 on my Triumph (shared sump) and I've seen several long distance touring riders on goldwings go over 10,000 miles. So I don't think that having a shared sump is a factor.
Really quality of the oil, oil temperature and how much the engine/transmission shears the oil is the key to long drains in a motorcycle.
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