Yet another question from a oil dummy

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I have a '05 Kawasaki 1500 FI Vulcan Classic that has about 600 mi on it, it is a liquid cooled bike, but the radiator is so small that it might as well be air cooled. Its ready for it's first oil change. The only spec that the manual says is SE, SF,SG 10w40 oil.

I've had motorcycles and quads before, but nothing this new, and I've always ran a 15w40 Rotella or Chevron Delo. with out problems. The temps are finally starting to rise, but a 15w40 is still plenty thick.

What exactly is the difference between a motor cycle oil and a normal automotive oil? Is it just a difference in phosphorus and maybe calcium levels?

This is my first real cruiser, and I don't want to ruin the motor or void the 4 yr warranty, but most of the UOA's I've seen on BITOG, the expensive synthetics have sheared down into the 30wt range, while over the shelf conventionals of the 15w40 nature hold grade really well.

This bike is not a rpm monster, so I really question wether I need a ester based zillion dollar a qt MC oil like Motul (i think its ester based), but I do want some thing that will stay in grade.

I was thinking about using Rotella 5w40 and change it at super short intervals of 1500 -2000 mi.

I am also wondering about Red Line 10w40, but I can't find any info on wether or not it can be used in a MC. Another oil that I am entertaining would be Amsoils 0w40 Motorcycle oil. The problem with these oils is availablity, but I also have the same problem with any MC oil, the nearest MC shop is 70 mi away.
 
I really can't tell you what the difference is between motorcycle oils and other oils, but I can tell you I use 5w40 rotella in my v-twin liquid cooled cruiser (Suzuki Intruder). I change it every 2500 to 3000 miles, which is about every month and a half for me. The stuff works MUCH better than the Valvoline motorcycle oil I was using, the engine is so much quieter now. I think you'll be happy with it.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I bought it last July and I've had very few chances to ride it. I've been pretty easy on it so far. Right now the temps here in SD are pretty low but do able.

This year I hope to put some good miles on it.
 
IMHO, if you are going to go with "super short" intervals (i.e., 1500-2000 miles) you can use the regular Rotella-T 15W-40 with no problem.

If you choose to go with the Synthetic 5W-40 you could easily go 3-4K, again IMHO. With Amsoil AME 15W-40 further still: it was on sale @ GI Joe's for $19.99 per gallon a couple weeks ago.

Does your Vulcan use a spin on filter or the traditional cartridge type?

Cheers!
 
Norm, it's a spin-on. Very easy to find car applications that fit well. I'm a short-interval changer, at the first sign of any difference in shifting feel in any shared-sump motorcycle...and that usually happens between 1000-1500 miles. With REAL good filtration, I think I'd be able to run a synthetic longer. However, when I can get a filter for 2-3.00, and 5 quarts of Delo 15-40 for less than 8.00, a 10-11 dollar oil change is hard to beat with lengthening OCI's using synthetics. Have a Honda Shadow in the family at 85,000 + miles on mineral oil and this short-change program. I'm betting my Vulcan will have similar results. Synthetic IS better, I think...but, 100,000 miles from a motorcycle engine is long enough for me!
 
I have the same bike! Delo 15-40 for it. Runs fine with it. I would like to make sure you know not to lug this engine...no, it isn't a high rpm monster, but, it isn't a low rpm grunt, either. Second gear at 65 mph is something like 5000 rpms. Try it, it likes to run at higher than "usual" rpms for a big V-twin. I never even use 5th gear unless I'm on the highway, or at 65 mph or more. Got this info from people with a lot more experience than I have with the Vulcans. Lots of people use the Delo or Rotella, etc, HDEO's. 15-40 mineral or synthetic 5-40. Fine for the wet clutch, regardless of the "warnings" you might see in some places, trying to get you to shell out big bucks for "motorcycle" specific oil. Go to the Vulcan Forum run by Delphi for more info.

Nice bike!
 
OH! And don't forget to change the oil through the Pre-Oil Filter on the left-hand side of the bike right above the kickstand. Clean that screen good...you'll be amazed at what it has caught!
 
Quote from Titan.

"OH! And don't forget to change the oil through the Pre-Oil Filter on the left-hand side of the bike right above the kickstand. Clean that screen good...you'll be amazed at what it has caught!"

I'm not sure what you mean by this, are you talking about the chrome engine cover?

I didn't see any mention of this in the owners manual, so I skipped it for the time being.

I decided to try out Rotella 5w40 synthetic and a Pure One 14610 filter.

The Pure One was the same price as a Fram Motorcycle filter, and by far better constructed than the Fram, and it makes the OEM look like a can with a few sheets of TP in it.

I cross referenced to the Pure One via this link. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

After draining the factory fill with only 565 mi, I was really glad I splurged on a Pure One filter. The drained oil looked like a large amount of glitter was dropped into it (not good). I have to wonder how much the OEM filter actually filtered out.

After refilling the motor with 5w40, put on a good 50 miles of hard driving at speeds of 65-75mph. What a difference the oil makes! Sure shifts alot crisper.

I think that I will drain the oil again at 1000 miles, the old oil was bad enough that I'm concerned about the filter clogging up.

Here's a quick photo of my baby.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/548076002/2461736430086592556sJaybC
 
PLEASE have someone show you the pre-oilscreen filter. It's the ONLY way to drain your oil, once you understand what it is, and where it is. It is just behind the kickstand, on the bottom of the engine. It's right on the left bottom edge. It's a 17 mm bolt. It is IMPERATIVE that you get this screen out and cleaned. You will be amazed, and perhaps even frightened at what you find caught in the screen. Mine was chock full of fiberglass-looking material...I guess from shop towels?

Look, google and go to Gadget's Nomad site (John Lawrence), and look up Pre-Oil screen. He details it beautifully. Just catch your fresh oil in a clean container and do this screen cleaning now, then put the oil back in. Once you understand what's going on, you'll never change it from the center drain bolt again. Plus, this pre-oil screen filter bolt has an O-ring on it...so you don't have to buy a new crush washer.

Seriously. Do it before you ride again.
gr_eek2.gif
 
That's it. I just wasn't sure about the rules of posting other web sites...looks like it must be fine to do! That is a GREAT site for all sorts of things for the Vulcan...Nomad, Classic, Mean Streak...just because it says "Nomad", doesn't mean it isn't chock full of good info. Good luck with your bike!
 
02,

Congratulations on your new Vulcan!

You're not the first rider (of any brand of bike) to have questions about oil. The big difference between bikes and cars is the transmission. The gears just literally squeeze the life out of ordinary lubricants which is why so many people recommend oils made specifically for motorcycles. I don't pretend to understand the chemistry but MC specific oils have additives that are more resistant to the extreme shear forces generated while trying to lube both the engine and tranny not to mention your wet clutch.

As a new owner there are probably other things you're curious about other than oil. You might want to check out this page: http://www.gadgetjq.com/newbie.htm .

Someone on this forum has mentioned the secondary oil drain. The screen that you'll want to clean at least once (and fairly soon) is designed to trap objects that might harm the oil pump. It's a sort of 'pre-filter' between the pickup and pump that, if you haven't checked it yet, is bound to have a lot of 'stuff' trapped in it from the initial break in period. You'll find more detail here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/vulcan_1500_oil-sys.htm

And finally to answer the rest of your questions go here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/faq.htm

If you want to hook up with a great bunch of Vulcan riders online be sure and join the Delphi Vulcan Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/kawvulcan/start

And again, welcome to Vulcan ownership.
John (Gadget) Lawrence
Host, Gadget's Fixit Page for Vulcan Nomad & Classic
www.gadgetjq.com/gadgetsfixitpage.htm
 
I would get amsoil or mobil1 vtwin synthetic oil here http://store.avlube.com/index.html

Virtually all research shows synthetics are better and reduce heat in MC engines which is the real enemy of every MC engine. For those bikes that have a seperate trans sump use mobil1 75w90 gear oil or redline shockproof heavy you can find redline oils at www.redlineoil.com

Change oil often and you will get lots of happy miles from your new engine!
 
Titan writes: Look, google and go to Gadget's Nomad site (John Lawrence), and look up Pre-Oil screen. He details it beautifully.

I reply: That's JohnQ to those who know him. I led him on some of his first rides when he started riding on a Virago 1100. His bikes (Virago then Nomad) ALWAYS look nice. He's meticulous and careful. He's one of the nicest persons you'd ever with to know. He's one of the more active members of the San Diego Wanderers. Look us up. http://www.sdwanderers.org

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
 
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