maintaining galvanized boat trailers

[The motor guy]

I always thought galvanized steel was supposed to last a long time, but I don't even put my boat trailer in the salt water that often. It gets used a couple times a month and always washed off. After about 3 or 4 years the bolts and all that need to be cut off with a torch.

 

[Danno]

Sounds like the bolts and bolt ons weren't galvanized, just the frame. Probably some galvanic corrosion going on as well.

 

[SilverSnake]

I worked in the Marine industry for 7 years and have owned 11 boats myself. My opinion is that boat trailers in general are of extremely poor quality. Corrosion on components like nuts and bolts is common place especially for trailers put in salt water. I used to advise customers to spray down the questionable components of their boat trailers with S-100 Corrosion Protectant. It is a clear spray that will stop existing corrosion and prevent future corrosion. Use every time before launching your boat and you will not have a problem.

 

[BrocLuno]

Galvanizing comes in quality based on how well the metal was prepped, how hot the solution was and the current applied and mostly how thick the galvanizing was/is. All fasteners should be SS if you don't want corrosion there ...

 

[The motor guy]

It's mainly the u bolts which I know were galvanized.

 

[The motor guy]

I think sitting outside getting rained on and out in the sun destroys them quicker than anything. Even if it doesn't get used.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I think sitting outside getting rained on and out in the sun destroys them quicker than anything. Even if it doesn't get used.


My trailer isn't galvanized but I agree with this 100%. I have sprayed Rust Check in all my nooks and crannies on mine as well as inside the frame, and have waxed it twice but it is still aging rather rapidly. It does not nor has it ever seen salt water, but the sun definitely takes it's toll on them.

I need to replaced my bunks this year as my 2 side bunks are shot. The carpeting that covers them holds the moisture and rots the H*ll out of them. Probably going to use pressurized lumber as that is all I can think of but would like to know if there are any alternatives?

 

[The motor guy]

I replaced a few of them too. Buy treated wood and seal it with stain I suppose. On mine the back 2 feet of the board rotted. I'm so glad I got my boat back under cover.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
I worked in the Marine industry for 7 years and have owned 11 boats myself. My opinion is that boat trailers in general are of extremely poor quality. Corrosion on components like nuts and bolts is common place especially for trailers put in salt water. I used to advise customers to spray down the questionable components of their boat trailers with S-100 Corrosion Protectant. It is a clear spray that will stop existing corrosion and prevent future corrosion. Use every time before launching your boat and you will not have a problem.


I think it is because they never really get a safety inspection and are not used enough by a non professional for bad quality to be obvious? You can clearly tell the pro grade utility/dump trailers around here from the scrub models. Here in Ontario only the truck needs a safety inspection annually for a GVWR of over 10k lbs I believe. My old man used to haul a dump trailer with his 2000 GMC G3500 and he sold that trailer when it started to rust because mini buns made more sense for him running a residential construction company. We also had to repair the wiring on the trailer for his jet ski in 2015 or so and it was a 2008 with low hours.

I know that a new cheap RV can be a real heap just from research I have done, but any piece of gear can turn to dust in the hands of a noob.

EDIT: @Irv I would try a synthetic wood, or impregnate the wood with fibreglass resin. Pressure treated would also work but it is still wood and will rot at the end of the day.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
I worked in the Marine industry for 7 years and have owned 11 boats myself. My opinion is that boat trailers in general are of extremely poor quality. Corrosion on components like nuts and bolts is common place especially for trailers put in salt water. I used to advise customers to spray down the questionable components of their boat trailers with S-100 Corrosion Protectant. It is a clear spray that will stop existing corrosion and prevent future corrosion. Use every time before launching your boat and you will not have a problem.


I think it is because they never really get a safety inspection and are not used enough by a non professional for bad quality to be obvious? You can clearly tell the pro grade utility/dump trailers around here from the scrub models. Here in Ontario only the truck needs a safety inspection annually for a GVWR of over 10k lbs I believe. My old man used to haul a dump trailer with his 2000 GMC G3500 and he sold that trailer when it started to rust because mini buns made more sense for him running a residential construction company. We also had to repair the wiring on the trailer for his jet ski in 2015 or so and it was a 2008 with low hours.

I know that a new cheap RV can be a real heap just from research I have done, but any piece of gear can turn to dust in the hands of a noob.

EDIT: @Irv I would try a synthetic wood, or impregnate the wood with fibreglass resin. Pressure treated would also work but it is still wood and will rot at the end of the day.


Thanks guys.

When you say synthetic wood, are you talking about the newer wood that is now being used quite frequently for decks and the like?
I was thinking pressure treated would be a lot better than what is currently on the trailer (non pressure treated, I think?) Like my boat lift, I believe the biggest problem is the carpeting that wrapped around the whole piece of lumber, not just partially covered.
With my lift, when I replaced those boards with PT wood, I cut the carpeting so it only covered the necessary sections, or the top part where my boat rested rather than covering the whole board. (pic below)
It's been a few years now and I like the looks/feel a lot better. Imo, the wood is lasting longer so I think a combination of the PT and only covering what is necessary with the carpeting has certainly helped.
I may try the same with my trailer bunks but I will have to be extra careful to ensure I cover enough in case the bunk(s) tilt on me while under water or loading.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Yes, use synthetic wood, like the composite docks.

Use stainless hardware to replace previous any time you are removing hardware.

Use a good corrosion blocker at all joints and the most vulnerable hardware.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Yes, use synthetic wood, like the composite docks.

Use stainless hardware to replace previous any time you are removing hardware.

Use a good corrosion blocker at all joints and the most vulnerable hardware.


Thanks for the info!

Unlike you, I assume, my trailer and boat lift don't see salt water so going SS is less important to me. Don't get me wrong, if SS was cheaper and more readily available, I would also use it but when I originally did my lift bunks, the nuts and bolts came apart surprisingly easy.

 

[Donald]

I think one needs to be careful with replacing bolts in areas where they need to be super strong. If the original was a grade 5 or 8 you cannot replace with a SS and doubt you will find dipped galvanized that are grade 5 or 8. Most critical on the coupler to tongue of winch to frame. Maybe axle related bolts also.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Yes, use synthetic wood, like the composite docks.

Use stainless hardware to replace previous any time you are removing hardware.

Use a good corrosion blocker at all joints and the most vulnerable hardware.


The synthetic wood has almost no strength. Certainly less than wood as it needs to be supported every 12" not 16" like wood on a house deck.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Trailer design is going to play the biggest role there. Seen plenty where the design overloaded the standard wood bunks and they didn't last at all.

If the trailer is properly designed, it shouldn't be an issue. The use of synthetic material to replace organic wood is common enough here. If the wood was never a problem, the synthetic is not either.