ATP AT-205 Re-Seal for rear main seal leak

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Messages
89
Location
OK, USA
Been holding off on using any kind of additives. Scotty Kilmer seems to recommend the stuff. Friend of mine told me about Scotty K on youtube & that he is respected mechanic. Would be nice to pour $15 dollar bottle in & RMS leak be fixed on the S10 in my signature. I replaced the PCV Valve & both valve cover gaskets. I've noticed a slow improvement in running low between oil changes since also switching over to GTX HM It's either burning oil or I'm losing it through the RMS leak. Anyone had any experience with this product? Don't care to trash my engine but apparently it's highly regarded in reviews on amazon & by Scotty Kilmer.
 
Last edited:
Hi! I gave this stuff a chance on a 1970 Ariens snowblower auger gearbox last year. Easier than replacing the shaft seals. What the heck. Guess what... no more leaks. Just follow the directions.
 
I used it on my Montero. It came highly recommended. I used it when I changed the oil. It initially stopped leaking. But, after a one hundred miles it started leaking again. When I went to a 0W40 weight oil and the rear main seal stopped leaking. Although my leak was very minor only a couple drips, no more.




Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
I use it in nearly every fluid in ye olde pickup truck. It cured the valve seal leak that used to make clouds of smoke at startup. No more smoke, and no more oil leaks. The stuff works. Now, I did have to replace the transfer case rear output shaft seal because it was beyond the capabilities of an additive. It's also a crummy slip yoke design that is just prone to failure.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Didn't help the RMS leak on the Xterra. Maxlife slowed it down a bit. For those with success, do you have to put it in ever OC?


I did not put AT-205 back in my engine on the last oil change. No smoke or oil use in the last 600 miles.
 
The snowblower gearbox lube I only change every couple of years. I will replace it with the treated gearbox lube. I should have enough to outlast me. 80W90 EP so says the Ariens service techs.
 
I tried it a older Regal with really nothing to lose. I know everyone just dumps the whole bottle in but I followed the directions. I didn't notice any difference maybe a little but I honestly couldn't say. A year later I tried Bars stop peak concentrated and while it didn't completely stop it did make a noticeable difference.

If ATP aided it in some way I can't say but that was the one that provided some results for me. Took about 300 miles (or a month of driving) to make a difference but that was about a month ago where I could tell the difference how long it lasts who knows.
 
This particular product is pure solvent, it actually attacks the seals by softening them. Different seal materials react in different ways to solvents, they may soften and remain that way for a time others may turn into mush or split and leak like mad.
In any case it is not just attacking the one seal but every seal and gasket in the engine that it comes in contact with.

As a Hail Mary to get it over a time period before junking it okay but personally I am afraid of these type of products on anything worth keeping.
Keep in mind that once used there is no going back and just replacing the RMS if the stuff damages more seals it can mean a total engine re-seal. Scary stuff IMHO.
 
Tried it on my Sable with a leaky RMS and it did not help. There are many positive reviews on it so I was hopeful. Mechanic said $800 to replace it and I don't want to do it. Not a bad leak but a few drops every time I park.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
This particular product is pure solvent, it actually attacks the seals by softening them. Different seal materials react in different ways to solvents, they may soften and remain that way for a time others may turn into mush or split and leak like mad.
In any case it is not just attacking the one seal but every seal and gasket in the engine that it comes in contact with.

As a Hail Mary to get it over a time period before junking it okay but personally I am afraid of these type of products on anything worth keeping.
Keep in mind that once used there is no going back and just replacing the RMS if the stuff damages more seals it can mean a total engine re-seal. Scary stuff IMHO.


AT-205 has one ingredient, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, CAS 111-90-0, A.K.A. "carbitol". It is a solvent, but I am not scared of it.
 
Funny how we use language:
The OP said Scotty Kilmer "seems to" recommend then later "apparently" blah-blah-blah
SC raved about the product. He said he doesn't believe in snake oils except this one et.. etc.

In fact, his flagship example (an old jack) was treated with the stuff decades ago.

He's a fan. No "seems to" or "apparently is highly regarded" about it.
 
Mostly I think similarly to Trav. When you DIY repair, you shake your head at all snake-oil solutions. You know things wear and there's no miracle-gro for metal wear.

That said, I tried this stuff (once) because of what I read on BITOG of it being not a miracle product.
It worked. Now, several years later and no reapplication, the leak slowly came back, probably not as bad as it was before but I can't recall. It never was a bad leak, just drops, so I'm using cardboard on the driveway now and otherwise ignoring it.

I only wanted it to maybe soften the RMS a bit. I've done replacement of plug tunnel seals on the engine and those, exposed to heat, were rock-hard; valve cover gasket wasn't that rock-hard.

Oil: For years I ran only M1, then found the sales section here and now run whatever $1 oil I have in my stash.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top