When my dad and I came back from shooting Sunday we both sat at the table cleaning our ARs with the Ballistol. We poured some in 2 seperate containers and let the bolts, taken apart, to soak while we cleaned the rest of the AR. My dad didn't like it too much because it stinks and didn't do much cleaning to the bolt. He used his brake cleaner and tooth brush to clean the bolts. But, we both used it to lube everything. It has a very oil like feel to it, very slippery. I think it stinks but I like that it has a oily and slippery feel. That tells me it should keep everything lubed pretty good.
Ballistol
- Thread starter BlueOvalFitter
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Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Toros
..... I was leading you on about Ballistol and wood........
Sure you were. You're too late to the lifeboat. Your ship already sunk.
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
Originally Posted By: Toros
..... I was leading you on about Ballistol and wood........
Sure you were. You're too late to the lifeboat. Your ship already sunk.
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
+1 As a cleaner and protectant it is decent but be sure to wipe off any excess because if stored it will gum up ! For lube and for storage there are better all synthetic options available today ...
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry, what basis do you have that the oils in ballistol aren't petroleum based?
Ballistol is based on Mineral Oil, which has a petroleum base. With that said Mineral Oil can spoil over time. It can and does become gummy and sticky. As people here have said happened to their guns when treated with it over time. Other petroleum based oils will not spoil over time the way Ballistol, and plant based lubricants will. As I've been saying, it's a century old product. There are much better products out there today to use on firearms for lubrication and rust prevention.
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry, what basis do you have that the oils in ballistol aren't petroleum based?
Ballistol is based on Mineral Oil, which has a petroleum base. With that said Mineral Oil can spoil over time. It can and does become gummy and sticky. As people here have said happened to their guns when treated with it over time. Other petroleum based oils will not spoil over time the way Ballistol, and plant based lubricants will. As I've been saying, it's a century old product. There are much better products out there today to use on firearms for lubrication and rust prevention.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Toros
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
Last word
Originally Posted By: Toros
Ballistol is used on ships and lifeboats too.It nourishes the hulls. Everyone knows that.
Last word
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I see from past posts that the option you mention is Weapon Shield. It's claimed to be non toxic and a syn oil base. Great. Would you trust it long term on wood stocks? I trust ballistol in that manner.
I would never use ANY product on wood that I use for lubricating metal. Why would you? You wouldn't take motor oil for your SUV and use it on your wife's dining room table. So why would you do basically the same with a lubricant you were using on your gun? What would it prove?
When I want to treat my wood stocks on my firearms I use a product designed for that. For metal I use the same. "All In One" products, along with century old lubricants, don't do anything very well. But they're better than nothing. Today there are far better choices.
WOOD
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-lbs-Paste-Finishing-Wax-785004444/100376194
But then run away from (well attack really) checkering and grips...seriously ???
Dining table is a shared resource, as is either of our SUVs, and oil from neither goes onto the (strawman) dining table
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I see from past posts that the option you mention is Weapon Shield. It's claimed to be non toxic and a syn oil base. Great. Would you trust it long term on wood stocks? I trust ballistol in that manner.
I would never use ANY product on wood that I use for lubricating metal. Why would you? You wouldn't take motor oil for your SUV and use it on your wife's dining room table. So why would you do basically the same with a lubricant you were using on your gun? What would it prove?
When I want to treat my wood stocks on my firearms I use a product designed for that. For metal I use the same. "All In One" products, along with century old lubricants, don't do anything very well. But they're better than nothing. Today there are far better choices.
WOOD
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-lbs-Paste-Finishing-Wax-785004444/100376194
But then run away from (well attack really) checkering and grips...seriously ???
Dining table is a shared resource, as is either of our SUVs, and oil from neither goes onto the (strawman) dining table
Knock yourself out. I can already feel the "nourishment"!
Originally Posted By: Shannow
So when you apply the wax that you recommended to JHZR2 as opposed to SUV oil, do you tape off the chequering ?
I don't tape it off. I simply avoid it.
So when you apply the wax that you recommended to JHZR2 as opposed to SUV oil, do you tape off the chequering ?
I don't tape it off. I simply avoid it.
So I just remembered that I cleaned and oiled my Henry Survival Rifle with Ballistol the last time I fired it..... 4 years ago. It has been sitting at the back of my safe, tucked behind other rifles and never touched in 4 years. The Ballistol has certainly dried to the light film I describe but the action is buttery smooth. Nothing is sticky, tacky or gummy and I am confident it would be 100% reliable if I had to fire it right now. I would post pics to show you guys the slick, lubricious 4-year-old Ballistol film I am talking about but I won't matter. Some of you really are incorrigible about this topic, I'm out.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
The one thing I don't like about Ballistol when it comes to wood is that it never cures like a boiled linseed oil or tung oil will.
If people are using it for wood on purpose, it would just be cheaper to get butchers block oil or regular pharmacy mineral oil.
Notionally one hasn't damaged the wood sufficiently that a refinish with tung or linseed oil is necessary. Incidental contact due to trying to clean and coat guns right up to the wood interface is a big deal to me, as is the ability to wipe the entire piece with a rag that will help remove various dirt and mess from the entire gun, and be ok for the wood and for the next time you handle it with bare skin.
If I were truly looking to keep up an oiledstock with additional oil, I wouldn't necessarily say that ballistol should be choice #1. I'd want to know what exactly is on the stock first.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
mineral oil isn't a "drying oil" creating varnish/laquer
Exactly.
On another note, while aim sure brake cleaner is a great solvent, it certainly isn't something I'd want to use a lot of indoors. I suspect that the chlorinated types are not good for plastic guns, and the non-chlorinated types are very much like Ed's red.
Which is another option for cleaning and ensuring an oily coating is left on guns. Another old recipe, it will leave a film due to lanolin content, but aid be less interested in some of the atf and kerosine components for incidental contact on wood and skin. It's a fine dunking solvent though, IMO. Cheap and effective too.
And like ballistol and everything else, just another tool in the box.
The one thing I don't like about Ballistol when it comes to wood is that it never cures like a boiled linseed oil or tung oil will.
If people are using it for wood on purpose, it would just be cheaper to get butchers block oil or regular pharmacy mineral oil.
Notionally one hasn't damaged the wood sufficiently that a refinish with tung or linseed oil is necessary. Incidental contact due to trying to clean and coat guns right up to the wood interface is a big deal to me, as is the ability to wipe the entire piece with a rag that will help remove various dirt and mess from the entire gun, and be ok for the wood and for the next time you handle it with bare skin.
If I were truly looking to keep up an oiledstock with additional oil, I wouldn't necessarily say that ballistol should be choice #1. I'd want to know what exactly is on the stock first.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
mineral oil isn't a "drying oil" creating varnish/laquer
Exactly.
On another note, while aim sure brake cleaner is a great solvent, it certainly isn't something I'd want to use a lot of indoors. I suspect that the chlorinated types are not good for plastic guns, and the non-chlorinated types are very much like Ed's red.
Which is another option for cleaning and ensuring an oily coating is left on guns. Another old recipe, it will leave a film due to lanolin content, but aid be less interested in some of the atf and kerosine components for incidental contact on wood and skin. It's a fine dunking solvent though, IMO. Cheap and effective too.
And like ballistol and everything else, just another tool in the box.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is Ballistol really as good as people claim it to be?
I am really hooked on using this quite regular now. Hand guns, rifles, knives, and furniture. I think I will buy an aerosol can next time. A little sure goes a long way.
Is Ballistol really as good as people claim it to be?
I am really hooked on using this quite regular now. Hand guns, rifles, knives, and furniture. I think I will buy an aerosol can next time. A little sure goes a long way.
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