Chevy Silverado, Tire and Suspension question

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gfh77665

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I bought a used 2005 Silverado, with 148 K miles. The truck seems to be in good to very good condition. (BTW it had 4000 hours on the clock, with 37 ave. MPH = mostly highway driving). The Silverados typically have almost a car like ride, but this ones ride feels very stiff, like its a 3/4 or 1 Ton, or a 4x4. Part of the problem was a leveling kit, which I had removed. That cured about 40-50% of the issue. The truck also "skips" when going over a bump or ridge in the pavement, causing it to get a tiny bit off track for a second or two.

Any ideas? Would new shocks typically help? Would a softer tire help? It currently has Bridgestone Dueler H/T's 265/70-R17, which is two sizes larger than the stock 245's. My wife wants a smoother ride, and I am not sure how to attack this issue. Thanks.
 
GM front ends with the U shaped center link don't like any mods away from stock usually. Those tires seem awful big for a half ton. The skip could be something as simple as shocks..or the suspension reacting to the oversize components....the center link can start to wobble up and down out at the tie rods causing a very interesting toe condition.
 
Look at the rear springs. It’s probably got helper or 3/4 ton springs under there. Does it sit sort of high in the tail. That’s another sign it’s got bigger than stock springs, air shocks ect. Heavy duty 10 ply tires ride really stiff too in my experience. If it does have any of these it could explain it, be thankful . GMs typically handle like pigs and don’t take a heavy load as well as beefier trucks.
 
Did you check tire pressure? With plus size tires you can run a few pounds under the door placard which should help with the skip and the hard ride. I had a conversation with Capriracer about a similar plus 2 tire and run 4 psi under placard and the handling and ride improved noticeably. Sometimes guys run tires at the max sidewall pressure to improve mileage when all it really does is decrease grip and make a harsh ride. Bigger tires don't automatially mean a hard ride unless they're E load rated.
 
I'd make sure it doesn't have overload springs in it and I think shocks would be a good idea. Maybe some Bilsteins, in my experience they're pretty soft riding (the normal blue/yellow bodied ones)
 
I've had good luck with Monroe Sensa-Tracs for shocks. I think the combo of oversized tires add unsprung weight (mass acceleration) which launches the tire/wheel combo upward on a bump and then it looses contact until it settles down. I agree with lowering the tire pressure some, for now...

If there is room around the brakes (?), you might go to a 16" wheel and tire of whatever rolling diameter you need to keep speedo happy. The larger sidewall will help with ride as long as you don't go to something off-road rock safe (like BFG All Terrain 3-ply sidewall...).

Does this truck ever see off-road? If it's all pavement, there are a lot of nice riding tires in 70 and 75 aspect that will prolly ride and wear just fine at 32 PSI, or slightly less
smile.gif
 
Are they LT series tires or P-Series tires? What was stock on the door placard P or LT?

If you've got LT tires and P-series were original equipment, you've found another part of the issue. To carry the same weight, LT tires need more inflation pressure and can result in a harsher ride. If you don't like the way they ride, and P-series was OE, then switch.
 
My little Colorado came stock with the 265/70R-17 Bridgestones. I replaced the factory shocks with Bilsteins at only 30,000 miles. it felt like the tires were dribbling on washboard roads and the tires themselves showed cupping in the tread. Instant improvement.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: pcoxe
My little Colorado came stock with the 265/70R-17 Bridgestones. I replaced the factory shocks with Bilsteins at only 30,000 miles. it felt like the tires were dribbling on washboard roads and the tires themselves showed cupping in the tread. Instant improvement.


I have keys, (you need to put a spacer in on some of these) rear helper springs, shackles, and replaced 265’s with 285’s on my “Colorado” … some are putting in the key and still twisting the torsion bar and that defeats the purpose …
So with Rancho shocks the ride is similar = but not with LT’s … had to pull them off …
Will eventually get some yellow shocks … the feedback on them is always 4-5 star …
 
I have a 2003 Suburban..basically same vehicle. When i got it the ride was kind of harsh.. I replaced all 4 shocks with NAPA $30 Response shocks. I found 2 shocks dead when i replaced mine.. My suburban is a tow pig and rarely sees interstates mostly backroads and city driving.. the ride is like new with these shocks.. no idea if they will last a long time or not but so far all is well after 2 yrs.

Not sure if yours has a greaseable front suspension but mine is kept greased the lower ball joints are a pain to grease if urs is the same as mine.
 
I will replace with stock sized passenger tires when the 265's are worn out. That may be another 20K miles or so.

Question: What is the typical service life of shocks? I ask because I have had vehicles that never had them replaced, even up to 300 K miles. Could mine really be worn at 150 K?
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
12 year old OEM shocks on a truck with 148K.... the question is do they have any damping left in them at all? They probably should have been changed at 50K for something decent.


Yeah … after re reading this thread … there are thousands of GM light trucks/SUV’s on 265’s …
Try good front shocks (Bilstien) and if that “un rocks” your world do the rear shocks as time/money permits …
 
UPDATE: Put a new set of shocks on it, got very nice results. Last thing to do is replace the over sized tires with correct sizes, when the time comes. It will be fine until then.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
UPDATE: Put a new set of shocks on it, got very nice results. Last thing to do is replace the over sized tires with correct sizes, when the time comes. It will be fine until then.


2 thoughts:

First, the P265/70R17's were a stock size on some versions of the Suburban. If Tire Guides is correct, the 245's were 16". You need to check your vehicle tire placard.

Second, you haven't told us if the tires are P type or LT type. Again, we need to know what the vehicle tire placard says.
 
OP, I think you know what you need to do. If you want the stock ride you need to go through the suspension components and tires to confirm everything is in good shape and as close to stock as possible.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: PiperOne
GM front ends with the U shaped center link don't like any mods away from stock usually. Those tires seem awful big for a half ton. The skip could be something as simple as shocks..or the suspension reacting to the oversize components....the center link can start to wobble up and down out at the tie rods causing a very interesting toe condition.


LOL ive had trucks lifted 10"+ with 38s, 9" with 35s, and now i have a leveled 1500 with 295/70/18 (all silverado 1500's). They all rode perfect. werent stiff and i had absolutely no issues, even from my at the time pregnant wife.

Get rid of the dueler tires, they suck, period.
I would probably change shocks, and maybe even look into sulastic shackles.
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Did you check tire pressure? With plus size tires you can run a few pounds under the door placard which should help with the skip and the hard ride. I had a conversation with Capriracer about a similar plus 2 tire and run 4 psi under placard and the handling and ride improved noticeably. Sometimes guys run tires at the max sidewall pressure to improve mileage when all it really does is decrease grip and make a harsh ride. Bigger tires don't automatially mean a hard ride unless they're E load rated.


E load rating also doesnt automatically equate to harsh ride, either.
 
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