Ballistol

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Originally Posted By: CajunLariat
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is Ballistol really as good as people claim it to be?
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My dad (BlueOvalFitter) and I tried the Ballistol. We both like it very much. My dad cleaned my grandfathers Winchester .22 pump rifle (Made 1939) with it. He has the before and after pics on his phone, but he can't post them because he's on vacation.
He even used it on the wood stock. Let's just say, WOW! That stuff is super slippery, if that's a different way of describing it. I own a S&W Sport 2 and a S&W M2.0 Compact 9mm. I haven't tried the Ballistol on either one, but will after tomorrow. Me and my dad are going to my grandfathers house to shoot. My dad built a range in his back yard by the edge of the soybean field back in 2009. It's a huge dirt hill with target stands in front of it. I want to shoot my AR then clean it with the Ballistol. Being we are new to it, any advice is very much appreciated.


Not a fan of ballistol or anything else on the polymer/rubber parts of pistols.

Ballistol is good IMO for cleaning the AR after routine use. Of course there are more aggressive cleaners, but for a light/routine cleaning, imo it works great. I personally use SLIP on the necessary points in the bcg and elsewhere after cleaning with the ballistol.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry, what basis do you have that the oils in ballistol aren't petroleum based?


Ballistol is based on Mineral Oil, which has a petroleum base. With that said Mineral Oil can spoil over time. It can and does become gummy and sticky. As people here have said happened to their guns when treated with it over time. Other petroleum based oils will not spoil over time the way Ballistol, and plant based lubricants will. As I've been saying, it's a century old product. There are much better products out there today to use on firearms for lubrication and rust prevention.
 
billt460, SERIOUSLY? I almost fell out of my chair when I saw those prices! People actually buy those small containers at those prices? I think I will keep using my WalMart super tech brake cleaner and my napa synthetic oil. I will be trying the Ballistol tomorrow. That stuff is slippery. And it smells.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry, what basis do you have that the oils in ballistol aren't petroleum based?


Ballistol is based on Mineral Oil, which has a petroleum base. With that said Mineral Oil can spoil over time. It can and does become gummy and sticky. As people here have said happened to their guns when treated with it over time. Other petroleum based oils will not spoil over time the way Ballistol, and plant based lubricants will. As I've been saying, it's a century old product. There are much better products out there today to use on firearms for lubrication and rust prevention.


I don't deny that there are better products for lubrication. We'd be saying that if it was dollar store oil vs synthetic, or any other comparo.

What Ive not seen a straight answer from anyone on is what can do all the things ballistol does with the same level of non-concern? That is, totally skin and wood safe, time tested, that leaves an oily protective film?

I do still question the basis of rancidity/"going bad" for pure mineral oil, most of the situations of that sort are anecdotal in nature, with other organic materials mixed in.

I have observed a slight film left behind by the product that was easily removed. Ive seen it still as an oily film after many (5+ years) on unfired lever action rifles I own. I believe two things are going on: (1) you apply the product and then the IPA flashes readily. I don't believe there's an emulsifying/water soluble alcohol component readily there for any period of time. (2) there's a minority petrolatum component that isn't listed in the SDS. This is used commonly in products like CRC 6-56 and 3-36, which, under the right conditions can also leave a residue. The ballistol website doesn't state the component, but does admit that it leaves behind a film. I believe the residual film may be miscategorized.

I see from past posts that the option you mention is Weapon Shield. It's claimed to be non toxic and a syn oil base. Great. Would you trust it long term on wood stocks? I trust ballistol in that manner.

There's also absolutely nothing wrong with having multiple products for multiple uses. This discussion here is really not a thought exercise in what one product will fit in my bug out pack for the zombie apocalypse. It's not soldiers in the field. Nothing wrong with having a strong and weakfish solvent, other cleaner, lubes, grease, etc. Ballistol is a tool in the toolbox. One you can use liberally, get on wood, get on your hands, be confident in it having some cleaning ability, leave a protective film that lasts years under the right conditions, but is also easily removed.

I wouldn't use any one product on everything. IMO it's a good and valuable tool; one I use more than any other because it's good and safe.

If there's another product that checks all the boxes I mention, I'm all ears. I'm not sure Weapon Shield checks them all. None of this discussion is to be an overly strong advocate for ballistol with blinders on. But Ive not seen a solid recommendation for a product that meets the metrics I've stated, and I do think the residues are miscategorized.
 
Originally Posted By: CajunLariat
billt460, SERIOUSLY? I almost fell out of my chair when I saw those prices! People actually buy those small containers at those prices? I think I will keep using my WalMart super tech brake cleaner and my napa synthetic oil. I will be trying the Ballistol tomorrow. That stuff is slippery. And it smells.


Brakefree CLP is less money, but Amazon asks about the same for Weapon Shield and other products in those little bottles. Little bottles of stuff that probably has to ship separately adds cost. Amazon is convenient, but their prime prices which have a shipping cost built in aren't always the best.
 
Originally Posted By: CajunLariat
billt460, SERIOUSLY? I almost fell out of my chair when I saw those prices! People actually buy those small containers at those prices? I think I will keep using my WalMart super tech brake cleaner and my napa synthetic oil. I will be trying the Ballistol tomorrow. That stuff is slippery. And it smells.


It's "gun lube". It's ALL overpriced. That's why there is so much of it out there. This is my favorite. $8.00 for a 1/2 ounce. At that price it comes to just $256.00 for a one pound jar.

https://shop.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-...zcaAr8dEALw_wcB
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I see from past posts that the option you mention is Weapon Shield. It's claimed to be non toxic and a syn oil base. Great. Would you trust it long term on wood stocks? I trust ballistol in that manner.


I would never use ANY product on wood that I use for lubricating metal. Why would you? You wouldn't take motor oil for your SUV and use it on your wife's dining room table. So why would you do basically the same with a lubricant you were using on your gun? What would it prove?

When I want to treat my wood stocks on my firearms I use a product designed for that. For metal I use the same. "All In One" products, along with century old lubricants, don't do anything very well. But they're better than nothing. Today there are far better choices.

WOOD

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-lbs-Paste-Finishing-Wax-785004444/100376194

METAL

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2756220438/steel-shield-weapon-shield-gun-oil-liquid

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2756112298/steel-shield-weapon-shield-gun-grease
 
Minwax on checkered grips? No thanks. I'm sure it's protective properties are fine bur what a pia it has to be to apply and polish. Rifle stocks , yes. Ballistol does work fine on all wood.
 
Originally Posted By: Toros
Minwax on checkered grips? No thanks. I'm sure it's protective properties are fine bur what a pia it has to be to apply and polish. Rifle stocks , yes. Ballistol does work fine on all wood.


Why would you apply ANY oil or wax to raw checkered wood? I've never applied anything in over 45 years to checkering on ANY rifle or pistol stock.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Toros
Minwax on checkered grips? No thanks. I'm sure it's protective properties are fine bur what a pia it has to be to apply and polish. Rifle stocks , yes. Ballistol does work fine on all wood.


Why would you apply ANY oil or wax to raw checkered wood? I've never applied anything in over 45 years to checkering on ANY rifle or pistol stock.


Checkered grips are not raw or unfinished. They are stained and coated.
You are the one that recommended Minwax slick.
 
I have waxed my wood stocks. There is no harm in this, and it does provide some wet protection (not a ton, but OK)

As for Ballistol, I am REALLY tempted to buy a THIRD can and do an AR bolt soak test. Sorta has become my subjective standard - nothing scientific. Soak a filthy AR bolt for 60 minutes, see how loose the crud is. All I know is my Hoppe's/Kroil mix does a great job for cleaning (but is NOT a lubricant). As noted, different products for different jobs is really best. I've seen no evidence to the contrary. IOW, no such thing as a GOOD all in one product.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460

WOOD

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-lbs-Paste-Finishing-Wax-785004444/100376194

I would highly recommend Renaissance Wax over Minwax
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Its acid free unlike all other waxes, including Carnauba and Beeswax. It is used in the London Museum for wood, leather, any metal. I use it on my (expensive cornets) guns, silver, leather, etc. Really is no better product. On my shotguns I put it on the whole gun.
 
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Originally Posted By: Al
I would highly recommend Renaissance Wax over Minwax.


Renaissance Wax is a good product. I used Butchers Wax for over 40 years, until the can went bad, and it turned to soup. I couldn't find Butchers Wax anywhere, so I bought the Minwax Paste. I can't tell the difference. Wax is pretty much wax. I only use it on my Weatherby Mark V Deluxe, and my Browning Citori Trap guns that have a high gloss finish. I'm in Arizona so I'm that concerned about protection from weather. But when I wax them they don't seem to show fingerprints as bad. But I never get it anywhere near the checkering.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
.....As for Ballistol, I am REALLY tempted to buy a THIRD can and do an AR bolt soak test. Sorta has become my subjective standard - nothing scientific. Soak a filthy AR bolt for 60 minutes, see how loose the crud is.


If you are really looking for an easy way to get carbon and crud off an AR-15 bolt carrier group, nothing I've come across works better than this stuff. It's water soluble and really cuts through the crud. I keep my BCG's wet with lube, so carbon doesn't stick to them. But if you do a high round count shooting course of fire, and get carbon cooked on to your bolt carrier group, nothing will remove it faster.

https://www.massgenie.com/slip-2000-6012...m_source=google
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
All I know is my Hoppe's/Kroil mix does a great job for cleaning (but is NOT a lubricant).


Pablo, not for AR's being Oz and all...I make up a "two stroke" of wax and grease remover and ATF 9:1 for soaking dirty stuff in.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Toros
Checkered grips are not raw or unfinished. They are stained and coated.


Then why do you need anything on them?


You don't. But if you get some Ballistol on them it helps not harms them.
 
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