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Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Linctex] #4597415
12/07/17 07:53 PM
12/07/17 07:53 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Blinddog Offline OP
Blinddog  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Linctex, I like the idea of blocking exhaust ports and soaking the combustion side, I was heading in this direction originally but assumed I would have to do one cylinder at a time to close the valves.

Last edited by Blinddog; 12/07/17 07:54 PM.
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4597439
12/07/17 08:13 PM
12/07/17 08:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Blinddog Offline OP
Blinddog  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Yes Kira, My proposal was to overfill the engine beyond piston height with Simple Green, pull plugs to prevent hydro lock, drop the exhaust to monitor what is coming by the pistons and occasionally roll the engine over by hand. Oldmoparguy, after Simple Green flush, my plan was to flush crankcase with mixture of diesel, oil and an alcohol (Drygas/911) using the same method as the Simple Green flush. Of course I would follow up with some quick oil changes as well. I hope you can expound on why you are opposed to non petroleum products being used. I know this is very out of the ordinary and I am unsure myself of the results/pitfalls. I would like to hear your thoughts and experiences. I have not yet committed to any method. Thanks again to all.

Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Cujet] #4597519
12/07/17 09:49 PM
12/07/17 09:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Blinddog Offline OP
Blinddog  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
On the contrary, I have run numerous test on carbon-ed pistons. After 24 hrs in SG the carbon is 98% gone without wiping or rubbing. After 48 hrs even the toughest carbon is completely gone. the active ingredient in Simple Green is Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate crystal, .05% Interestingly, the soap you get at the paint store for washing walls prepainting, TSP, is the same stuff, Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate crystal but at a 5% concentration. I have added the TSP soap to the Simple Green and now running a test with this solution to see if required soak time is decreased.

Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4597749
12/08/17 07:03 AM
12/08/17 07:03 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 30,619
NY
demarpaint Offline
demarpaint  Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 30,619
NY
If you were to fill it with SG and allow it to soak overnight which SG would you use? The green or the light purple? Light purple is aluminum friendly, the green not as friendly. Would you plan on turning the engine over by hand around 12 hours into the soak?

My only concern would be my assurance of getting all the simple green out of the engine before even thinking of starting it up.


God Bless Our Troops

Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: demarpaint] #4598618
12/08/17 11:26 PM
12/08/17 11:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Blinddog Offline OP
Blinddog  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Been testing on aluminum piston in an aluminum pie tin with the green SG. I see a slight discoloration in the piston after soaking for 48 hrs. Still trying to figure the out the best process.

Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4598634
12/08/17 11:51 PM
12/08/17 11:51 PM
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 683
South Carolina
eyeofthetiger Offline
eyeofthetiger  Offline
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 683
South Carolina
I think this could work. Do you plan on dropping the oil pan after the last flush? It would be good to clear it of loosened debris.

Re-oiling the engine will be the hard part. Of course you need a way to prime the oil system before running the engine again, and that will take care of the bearings, but oil may not get to every part that needs it right away. The Simple Green will have completely degreased things such as piston rings and cam lobes. That it, unless you follow the SG fill by completely filling the engine with some kind of oil. Let it "soak" in tge oil, then drain it and refill it with the normal engine oil capacity.


2017 Ford Fiesta 1.0T - Valvoline SynPower 5W-20, Motorcraft FL910S
1988 GMC K1500 4.3/700R4 - Supertech 15W-40, Fram TG3980
1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 - uhh
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4599124
12/09/17 04:36 PM
12/09/17 04:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,225
Slovenia EU
Kamele0N Offline
Kamele0N  Offline
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,225
Slovenia EU
Rather invest into some ester based oil...and proceed with normal OCI...esters will clean your engine...

Or to avoid higher expenses...buy only 1-2 quarts of ester based engine oil and add that amount inro your sump...


2008 Toyota Yaris 1ND-TV 1.4 D4-D Elf FullTech FE 5w30
1997 Toyota Landcruiser KZJ95 3.0 TD Shell Rimula R6M 10w40
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: eyeofthetiger] #4600267
12/10/17 10:41 PM
12/10/17 10:41 PM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20,122
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Trav Offline
Trav  Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20,122
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Originally Posted By: eyeofthetiger

Re-oiling the engine will be the hard part.

That's the easy part, you can either but a tank with hose or make your own for under $30 with an old tank with a few qts of oil in it.

A thread adapter, valve and hose to fit in the oil pressure switch port will prime the whole system.



Basically you are making this..

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/seale...ool/t40/4735487


ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4600904
12/11/17 06:31 PM
12/11/17 06:31 PM
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
Michigan
Oil_Flunky Offline
Oil_Flunky  Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
Michigan
I like Kano Kreen and Rislone Concentrate for dirty engines, as they allow you to drive the vehicle as they clean. The Rislone Concentrate double dose and drive for 100 miles, or Kreen idle purge using the whole quart can might be in order here.


Oil, you need it. Oil snobbery, you don't need it.
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Oil_Flunky] #4617248
12/28/17 10:49 PM
12/28/17 10:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Blinddog Offline OP
Blinddog  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 11
MI
Thanks Trav, I cut a few corners and made a rather crude "primer". Fortunately, on the boxer engine the oil sensor is sticking straight up at twelve o'clock. It also accepted a 1/8" pipe thread 6" nipple. From there I used 1 1/2" PVC with threaded adapters and large caps on each end. I drilled and tapped each threaded 1 1/2"cap to fit the 1/8" nipple on one end and a quick disconnect on the other. PVC assembly attached to nipple, sticking straight up, removed threaded cap, filled with oil, replaced cap, attached regulated (30psi) hose and let it flow. Repeated multiple times. I feel much better now that the bearing and gallerys have been flushed and lubricated. Tomorrow I will attach the exhaust and fire it up.

In summary, I traveled to Missouri to work on this oil consumption issue, approx 1 quart to 400 miles. I brought a new PCV valve but I found the old one to still work so I decided to move forward with flush method that I proposed above. After bench testing with carboned pistons I found a 48 hour soak in Simple Green will completely dissolve the carbon without rubbing or brushing.

My procedure: Purchased a can of Kreen from Kano Labs and had my daughter throw 1/2 can into the oil and start the preflush. She put about 300 miles on the Subaru with the Kreen. I warmed the vehicle up, drained the oil, drained the oil filter and put it back in place. I removed the PVC and crankcase vent hoses so I could verify the level of the solvent. I also pulled the plugs and dropped the exhaust so I could monitor what was coming into the combustion chamber. I then (over) filled the crankcase in an attempt to completely submerge the pistons. It took FIVE gallons of Simple Green and it eventually started coming out of the PCV threaded hole in the top of the engine. (I removed the PVC valve.) I observed that after 15-30 mins fluid began to drip out of two exhaust ports. After a longer period of time fluid started coming out of one of the spark plug holes. These two factors confirm that fluid was working its way past the piston rings. I let this soak for 48 hrs and I occasionally rotated the engine by hand to allow different valves to open and different cylinders to fill. After 24 hours I drained the solution, filtered it through a 400 and 200 micron filter, then refilled the engine. At 48 hours I drained the Simple Green and then created a diesel mixture to flush out the SG. I mixed one quart of oil and one bottle of dry-gas to four gallons of diesel. Filled the engine again, waited two hours occasionally baring the motor over. Drained that out. I attached my homemade primer mixed a dash of Kreen and a dash of dry-gas with two quarts of oil and pumped it thru the system. Installed new filter, filled with oil and a dash of dry gas. Tomorrow I'll see if I can wake Frankenstein up. I'am thinking of running the engine for 15-20 mins with no load and change the oil. Maybe the second oil chance after a few hundred miles.

Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4631145
01/11/18 09:08 AM
01/11/18 09:08 AM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 804
BerksCounty/Pa.
thorromig Offline
thorromig  Offline
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 804
BerksCounty/Pa.
Did you do a compression test on the cylinders? Very interested in your feed back overall on your "project!!" My best friend has a 2005 Subaru Baja with the 2.5L NA & it does not consume oil any longer since we have been running a HM 5W30 motor oil through it on 4000 mile intervals. When I initially started changing the oil for her -- it would consume about a quart overall in a 4000 mile interval just using regular SN conventional 5W30. I realize your situation & hers is totally different. Just food for the thought. We also the last 5 or 6 oil changes have only been running the Wix made Super Tech oil filter on it. This year she estimates she will hit the 100 thousand mile marker on the motor & 5spd manual trans.


00 Dodge Ram 5.2L 4x4 Edge 10W30 FU (91K)
08 Acura TL Type S 3.5L PUPP 5W20 FU (101K)
17 Jetta TSI SE 1.4L Turbo - Edge 0W40 FU (Hers) (4K)
Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog] #4633108
01/13/18 12:35 AM
01/13/18 12:35 AM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,308
Kansan,1911 45ACP fan
Marco620 Offline
Marco620  Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,308
Kansan,1911 45ACP fan
Kreen with a high detergent oil from Shell Pennzoil. Might try the Liquimoly Motor Oil Saver. Seems to clean really well. Ever thought of trying to use water vaporization through throttle body to try and loosen the crud.


15' Civic R18Z1 189k.0w20 Redline/Archoil9200,Eibach,Tanabe&Tein Suspension/Borla Exhaust/XG7317
Right to work state proud.
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