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#4597415 - 12/07/17 06:53 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Linctex]
Blinddog Offline

Registered: 12/04/17
Posts: 11
Loc: MI
Linctex, I like the idea of blocking exhaust ports and soaking the combustion side, I was heading in this direction originally but assumed I would have to do one cylinder at a time to close the valves.

Edited by Blinddog (12/07/17 06:54 PM)

#4597439 - 12/07/17 07:13 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
Blinddog Offline

Registered: 12/04/17
Posts: 11
Loc: MI
Yes Kira, My proposal was to overfill the engine beyond piston height with Simple Green, pull plugs to prevent hydro lock, drop the exhaust to monitor what is coming by the pistons and occasionally roll the engine over by hand. Oldmoparguy, after Simple Green flush, my plan was to flush crankcase with mixture of diesel, oil and an alcohol (Drygas/911) using the same method as the Simple Green flush. Of course I would follow up with some quick oil changes as well. I hope you can expound on why you are opposed to non petroleum products being used. I know this is very out of the ordinary and I am unsure myself of the results/pitfalls. I would like to hear your thoughts and experiences. I have not yet committed to any method. Thanks again to all.

#4597519 - 12/07/17 08:49 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Cujet]
Blinddog Offline

Registered: 12/04/17
Posts: 11
Loc: MI
On the contrary, I have run numerous test on carbon-ed pistons. After 24 hrs in SG the carbon is 98% gone without wiping or rubbing. After 48 hrs even the toughest carbon is completely gone. the active ingredient in Simple Green is Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate crystal, .05% Interestingly, the soap you get at the paint store for washing walls prepainting, TSP, is the same stuff, Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate crystal but at a 5% concentration. I have added the TSP soap to the Simple Green and now running a test with this solution to see if required soak time is decreased.

#4597749 - 12/08/17 06:03 AM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
demarpaint Offline

Registered: 07/03/05
Posts: 28697
Loc: NY
If you were to fill it with SG and allow it to soak overnight which SG would you use? The green or the light purple? Light purple is aluminum friendly, the green not as friendly. Would you plan on turning the engine over by hand around 12 hours into the soak?

My only concern would be my assurance of getting all the simple green out of the engine before even thinking of starting it up.
God Bless Our Troops

#4598618 - 12/08/17 10:26 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: demarpaint]
Blinddog Offline

Registered: 12/04/17
Posts: 11
Loc: MI
Been testing on aluminum piston in an aluminum pie tin with the green SG. I see a slight discoloration in the piston after soaking for 48 hrs. Still trying to figure the out the best process.

#4598634 - 12/08/17 10:51 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
eyeofthetiger Offline

Registered: 11/18/17
Posts: 323
Loc: South Carolina
I think this could work. Do you plan on dropping the oil pan after the last flush? It would be good to clear it of loosened debris.

Re-oiling the engine will be the hard part. Of course you need a way to prime the oil system before running the engine again, and that will take care of the bearings, but oil may not get to every part that needs it right away. The Simple Green will have completely degreased things such as piston rings and cam lobes. That it, unless you follow the SG fill by completely filling the engine with some kind of oil. Let it "soak" in tge oil, then drain it and refill it with the normal engine oil capacity.
2017 Ford Fiesta 1.0T - Valvoline SynPower 5W-20, Motorcraft FL910S
1988 GMC K1500 4.3/700R4 - Supertech 15W-40, Fram TG3980

#4599124 - 12/09/17 03:36 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
Kamele0N Offline

Registered: 02/09/15
Posts: 1670
Loc: Slovenia
Rather invest into some ester based oil...and proceed with normal OCI...esters will clean your engine...

Or to avoid higher only 1-2 quarts of ester based engine oil and add that amount inro your sump...
2011 Hyundai i30 1.4 CVVT Shell Helix Ultra 5w40
1997 Toyota Landcruiser KZJ95 3.0 TD various 10w40

#4600267 - 12/10/17 09:41 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: eyeofthetiger]
Trav Offline

Registered: 11/20/06
Posts: 16943
Loc: MA,
Originally Posted By: eyeofthetiger

Re-oiling the engine will be the hard part.

That's the easy part, you can either but a tank with hose or make your own for under $30 with an old tank with a few qts of oil in it.

A thread adapter, valve and hose to fit in the oil pressure switch port will prime the whole system.

Basically you are making this..
ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.

#4600904 - 12/11/17 05:31 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
Oil_Flunky Offline

Registered: 06/23/09
Posts: 71
Loc: Michigan
I like Kano Kreen and Rislone Concentrate for dirty engines, as they allow you to drive the vehicle as they clean. The Rislone Concentrate double dose and drive for 100 miles, or Kreen idle purge using the whole quart can might be in order here.
Oil, you need it. Oil snobbery, you don't need it.

#4617248 - 12/28/17 09:49 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Oil_Flunky]
Blinddog Offline

Registered: 12/04/17
Posts: 11
Loc: MI
Thanks Trav, I cut a few corners and made a rather crude "primer". Fortunately, on the boxer engine the oil sensor is sticking straight up at twelve o'clock. It also accepted a 1/8" pipe thread 6" nipple. From there I used 1 1/2" PVC with threaded adapters and large caps on each end. I drilled and tapped each threaded 1 1/2"cap to fit the 1/8" nipple on one end and a quick disconnect on the other. PVC assembly attached to nipple, sticking straight up, removed threaded cap, filled with oil, replaced cap, attached regulated (30psi) hose and let it flow. Repeated multiple times. I feel much better now that the bearing and gallerys have been flushed and lubricated. Tomorrow I will attach the exhaust and fire it up.

In summary, I traveled to Missouri to work on this oil consumption issue, approx 1 quart to 400 miles. I brought a new PCV valve but I found the old one to still work so I decided to move forward with flush method that I proposed above. After bench testing with carboned pistons I found a 48 hour soak in Simple Green will completely dissolve the carbon without rubbing or brushing.

My procedure: Purchased a can of Kreen from Kano Labs and had my daughter throw 1/2 can into the oil and start the preflush. She put about 300 miles on the Subaru with the Kreen. I warmed the vehicle up, drained the oil, drained the oil filter and put it back in place. I removed the PVC and crankcase vent hoses so I could verify the level of the solvent. I also pulled the plugs and dropped the exhaust so I could monitor what was coming into the combustion chamber. I then (over) filled the crankcase in an attempt to completely submerge the pistons. It took FIVE gallons of Simple Green and it eventually started coming out of the PCV threaded hole in the top of the engine. (I removed the PVC valve.) I observed that after 15-30 mins fluid began to drip out of two exhaust ports. After a longer period of time fluid started coming out of one of the spark plug holes. These two factors confirm that fluid was working its way past the piston rings. I let this soak for 48 hrs and I occasionally rotated the engine by hand to allow different valves to open and different cylinders to fill. After 24 hours I drained the solution, filtered it through a 400 and 200 micron filter, then refilled the engine. At 48 hours I drained the Simple Green and then created a diesel mixture to flush out the SG. I mixed one quart of oil and one bottle of dry-gas to four gallons of diesel. Filled the engine again, waited two hours occasionally baring the motor over. Drained that out. I attached my homemade primer mixed a dash of Kreen and a dash of dry-gas with two quarts of oil and pumped it thru the system. Installed new filter, filled with oil and a dash of dry gas. Tomorrow I'll see if I can wake Frankenstein up. I'am thinking of running the engine for 15-20 mins with no load and change the oil. Maybe the second oil chance after a few hundred miles.

#4631145 - 01/11/18 08:08 AM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
thorromig Offline

Registered: 03/22/12
Posts: 804
Loc: BerksCounty/Pa.
Did you do a compression test on the cylinders? Very interested in your feed back overall on your "project!!" My best friend has a 2005 Subaru Baja with the 2.5L NA & it does not consume oil any longer since we have been running a HM 5W30 motor oil through it on 4000 mile intervals. When I initially started changing the oil for her -- it would consume about a quart overall in a 4000 mile interval just using regular SN conventional 5W30. I realize your situation & hers is totally different. Just food for the thought. We also the last 5 or 6 oil changes have only been running the Wix made Super Tech oil filter on it. This year she estimates she will hit the 100 thousand mile marker on the motor & 5spd manual trans.
00 Dodge Ram 5.2L 4x4 Edge 10W30 FU (91K)
08 Acura TL Type S 3.5L PUPP 5W20 FU (101K)
17 Jetta TSI SE 1.4L Turbo - Edge 0W40 FU (Hers) (4K)

#4633108 - 01/12/18 11:35 PM Re: Newbie intro and guidance request [Re: Blinddog]
Marco620 Offline

Registered: 02/25/14
Posts: 1658
Loc: Fly Over Region KS, North Amer...
Kreen with a high detergent oil from Shell Pennzoil. Might try the Liquimoly Motor Oil Saver. Seems to clean really well. Ever thought of trying to use water vaporization through throttle body to try and loosen the crud.
2015 Civic Spec Ed R18Z1 136K mi
PUP 0w20/LM Ceratec,FU7317,Yokohama
HPS Intake/Tanabe strut bar/Borla Exhaust/Tein Suspension

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