Proper method to apply dielectric grease...
- Thread starter prs
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: leje0306
This should be a good one. Dielectric grease stops the flow of electricity. Therefore, do not put it directly on the conductors.
As has been well pointed out, yes dielectric grease as such does not conduct electricity but it doesn't matter. You don't want electricity flowing between gaps in conductors anyway, the grease does not inhibit conduction where metal-to-metal contact occurs. This subject comes up on here from time to time, and there are studies you can find which show that using dielectric grease inside a connector does not impede current flow. If the contacts aren't making contact, then you aren't getting current anyway unless it is arcing.
Also just to throw this in, the last thing you want is an electrically conductive grease in those connectors. All you ever want is current flow through the areas where the pins make contact, and then perhaps add the dielectric grease to keep out moisture or other contaminants to prevent corrosion.
This should be a good one. Dielectric grease stops the flow of electricity. Therefore, do not put it directly on the conductors.
As has been well pointed out, yes dielectric grease as such does not conduct electricity but it doesn't matter. You don't want electricity flowing between gaps in conductors anyway, the grease does not inhibit conduction where metal-to-metal contact occurs. This subject comes up on here from time to time, and there are studies you can find which show that using dielectric grease inside a connector does not impede current flow. If the contacts aren't making contact, then you aren't getting current anyway unless it is arcing.
Also just to throw this in, the last thing you want is an electrically conductive grease in those connectors. All you ever want is current flow through the areas where the pins make contact, and then perhaps add the dielectric grease to keep out moisture or other contaminants to prevent corrosion.
You say that but Ive seen so many instances of trained monkeys smearing grease into connectors and causing problems. Sometimes months, even years later it starts acting up. Trace out the fault to a connector, pull it apart and its got a bunch of dielectric grease in it. Blow it out with some electrical contact cleaner and magically it works again.
If I use it, I wipe it on the seal, which is usually on the male side and dont put any in the contact area.
If I use it, I wipe it on the seal, which is usually on the male side and dont put any in the contact area.
Regardless of whether trained monkeys slather one type of grease or another is irrelevant, the proper material properly applied isn't going to cause connections to not conduct electricity. It is the metal-to-metal contact that conducts, not air nor anything else.
But beyond that there really aren't a lot of connectors these days that require the grease. Even on my old cars most connections are environmentally sealed and nearly all those are intended to be assembled dry. The days of of the open back headlight bulb socket are pretty much gone.
But beyond that there really aren't a lot of connectors these days that require the grease. Even on my old cars most connections are environmentally sealed and nearly all those are intended to be assembled dry. The days of of the open back headlight bulb socket are pretty much gone.
I was hesitant to use dielectric grease on contacts such as trailer hitch wiring, etc. ... but after some research and reading the posts above it sounds like it is ok.
On top of this, my Toyota truck came with factory tow package and has a 7 and 4 pole trailer connector and all the plugs & holes are filled with clear grease which looks like my dielectric grease. same texture and look. I haven't analyzed it beyond the look and texture but what else could it be???! I assume if Toyota does it and if CRC video on page 1 shows the same thing, most likely it should be ok to add to contacts. Also a few experts? on this thread have already said the same thing that is ok to use on contacts.
On top of this, my Toyota truck came with factory tow package and has a 7 and 4 pole trailer connector and all the plugs & holes are filled with clear grease which looks like my dielectric grease. same texture and look. I haven't analyzed it beyond the look and texture but what else could it be???! I assume if Toyota does it and if CRC video on page 1 shows the same thing, most likely it should be ok to add to contacts. Also a few experts? on this thread have already said the same thing that is ok to use on contacts.
Last edited:
I think dielectric grease (does not conduct) is more used in auto & marine industry. However in some high voltage/current applications such as electrical panels where there is more space between conducting elements and you may be dealing with aluminum & copper contacts, I was told that antioxidant compound (it conducts) is more suitable and also prevents galling.
Last edited:
The only issue with dielectric grease on contacts is where the contacts are subject to frequent cycles and have a propensity to arc. In the heat of the arc the silicone can convert to silicon carbide which is not conductive and extremely abrasive resulting in destruction of any contact plating.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
The only issue with dielectric grease on contacts is where the contacts are subject to frequent cycles and have a propensity to arc. In the heat of the arc the silicone can convert to silicon carbide which is not conductive and extremely abrasive resulting in destruction of any contact plating.
But neither is the silicone dielectric compound. Either way, none of that applies to your typical automotive application.
The only issue with dielectric grease on contacts is where the contacts are subject to frequent cycles and have a propensity to arc. In the heat of the arc the silicone can convert to silicon carbide which is not conductive and extremely abrasive resulting in destruction of any contact plating.
But neither is the silicone dielectric compound. Either way, none of that applies to your typical automotive application.
Regardless of whether it is applied to metal contacts, plastic or rubber parts, I use the minimum amount of dielectric that is effective. There is no need to goober it up. But I always use it.
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Not all dielectric greases are created equal. I use Motorcraft XG-12 electrical grease (which is dielectric) on all electrical connections (except battery terminals). Never a problem.
It is my belief that Nye Lubricants is the authority on the subject, as they make lubricants and dielectric compounds for all industries. Look up NyoGel 760C on the Nye Lubricants website (I believe this is identical to the Motorcraft stuff I use) and read about it. They make several different dielectric compounds, as I said not all dielectric greases are created equal.
Myths about connector lubes:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/cont...ctors_final.pdf
some general info:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/cont..._connectors.pdf
Quote:
Nye’s connector lubricants can be divided into two general classes: lubricants for noble metal connectors and tin/lead connectors. For noble metals, fluoroethers are the lubricants of choice. They withstand extreme temperatures and resist aggressive chemicals and solvents. Five and six-ring polyphenyl ethers are also extremely stable in thin film, and offer an excellent track record on gold-plated connectors. For tin/lead connectors, synthetic hydrocarbons provide excellent film strength, broad temperature serviceability, and protection against fretting corrosion.
Not all dielectric greases are created equal. I use Motorcraft XG-12 electrical grease (which is dielectric) on all electrical connections (except battery terminals). Never a problem.
It is my belief that Nye Lubricants is the authority on the subject, as they make lubricants and dielectric compounds for all industries. Look up NyoGel 760C on the Nye Lubricants website (I believe this is identical to the Motorcraft stuff I use) and read about it. They make several different dielectric compounds, as I said not all dielectric greases are created equal.
Myths about connector lubes:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/cont...ctors_final.pdf
some general info:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/cont..._connectors.pdf
Quote:
Nye’s connector lubricants can be divided into two general classes: lubricants for noble metal connectors and tin/lead connectors. For noble metals, fluoroethers are the lubricants of choice. They withstand extreme temperatures and resist aggressive chemicals and solvents. Five and six-ring polyphenyl ethers are also extremely stable in thin film, and offer an excellent track record on gold-plated connectors. For tin/lead connectors, synthetic hydrocarbons provide excellent film strength, broad temperature serviceability, and protection against fretting corrosion.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
The only issue with dielectric grease on contacts is where the contacts are subject to frequent cycles and have a propensity to arc. In the heat of the arc the silicone can convert to silicon carbide which is not conductive and extremely abrasive resulting in destruction of any contact plating.
But neither is the silicone dielectric compound. Either way, none of that applies to your typical automotive application.
Caravan power, trailer connectors, power window switches, relays, electric motors. None of them in cars right? The difference between silicone grease and silicon carbide is it won't be mechanically wiped away like the grease, instead it scrapes the plating off your contacts allowing rapid corrosion and erosion.
I don't disagree with you, it's just something to be careful of because it destroys contacts quite quickly. Silicone also tends to migrate around, so keep it away from things that do arc (motors, alternators, relays... and so on).
A bit of extra trivia for you to consider when next throwing the grease around. Don't get me wrong, I use heaps of the stuff, but knowing when *not* to use it is neat too.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
The only issue with dielectric grease on contacts is where the contacts are subject to frequent cycles and have a propensity to arc. In the heat of the arc the silicone can convert to silicon carbide which is not conductive and extremely abrasive resulting in destruction of any contact plating.
But neither is the silicone dielectric compound. Either way, none of that applies to your typical automotive application.
Caravan power, trailer connectors, power window switches, relays, electric motors. None of them in cars right? The difference between silicone grease and silicon carbide is it won't be mechanically wiped away like the grease, instead it scrapes the plating off your contacts allowing rapid corrosion and erosion.
I don't disagree with you, it's just something to be careful of because it destroys contacts quite quickly. Silicone also tends to migrate around, so keep it away from things that do arc (motors, alternators, relays... and so on).
A bit of extra trivia for you to consider when next throwing the grease around. Don't get me wrong, I use heaps of the stuff, but knowing when *not* to use it is neat too.
A-OK as far as I am concerned. I usually give connections that will experience a lot of moisture or the elements. Might not be necessary but it gives me the warm and fuzzies.
I purchased one of those Moroso quick disconnects for my truck battery on my Chev, so I could disconnect the battery when ever I stored the truck, just as a security measure. I thought I could make things better by applying dielectric grease to the female side of the connection. The connection was on the negative side of the battery.
Took it for a drive to the local parts sore. After warming up things I’m pretty sure the grease coated all the threads quite well. Did my shopping. Tried to start the truck. No juice. The guy in the store brought out the booster. Hooked the negative to the frame and positive to the battery. Got a start. Drove home. Parked. Turned off and then tried to start. No juice. Cleaned the dielectric grease off. Started fine. Not saying anything about how to apply the grease, but it truly can stop a current if you slather it on.
Before you tell me a motor can’t run with the negative disconnected. I can tell you it can. Not a good thing to do, though.
SF
Took it for a drive to the local parts sore. After warming up things I’m pretty sure the grease coated all the threads quite well. Did my shopping. Tried to start the truck. No juice. The guy in the store brought out the booster. Hooked the negative to the frame and positive to the battery. Got a start. Drove home. Parked. Turned off and then tried to start. No juice. Cleaned the dielectric grease off. Started fine. Not saying anything about how to apply the grease, but it truly can stop a current if you slather it on.
Before you tell me a motor can’t run with the negative disconnected. I can tell you it can. Not a good thing to do, though.
SF
- Status
