Using anti-seize on spark plugs or not

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When installing spark plugs on a Ford F 150 equipped with the 300 inline six engine should I use a little anti-seize on the threads or not? The plugs for this engine don't have many threads on them, maybe six or seven full threads at most, unlike some other plugs. (NGK recommends not using anti-seize when installing plugs)
 
A very little. Just a film in the threads is all you need. Torque by feel. Seated plus however much turn they tell you.
 
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Originally Posted By: Electromotive
When installing spark plugs on a Ford F 150 equipped with the 300 inline six engine should I use a little anti-seize on the threads or not? The plugs for this engine don't have many threads on them, maybe six or seven full threads at most, unlike some other plugs. (NGK recommends not using anti-seize when installing plugs)


There are several threads a year on this topic, some people are for it some against it. I've always used it, including NGK plugs.

Regarding the 300 I6, I have owned vehicles powered with that engine since 1984, and still own one. I've used anti-seize on the plugs in every one of them until today. With Autolite and NGK plugs, never a problem. I live on Long Island where corrosion can be an issue.
 
Never done it. I hand tighten the plugs using a socket/extension and then give 1/2 turn with the ratchet to snug and that is good enough. Even after 100K miles.
 
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I had a 1979 Ford F150 with the 300 Ci 6 and it had 300,365 mile on it with normal oil pressure when I sold it. I put a oil pressure gauge on it. I used antiseeze on the plugs. It was one of my favorite engines
 
Iron head= less threads.

I'd let it be your call, but remember, most plugs have a plating on them already.

If you gotta do it, don't let the stuff foul the electrode.
 
The consensus appears to be a toss-up.

The real problem with using the stuff and why some manufacturers say "no" is that people use too much.

Also, clean is very important, along with proper torque.
 
After removing plugs from a well kept GM V6 3.5, the threads were very tight, very dry
8 yr old original iridium plugs.

I wonder what they did at the engine plant! Yes, there was lots of thread engagement and
I did use a thin even coating.

One key step I do every year for FWD V6s and RWD V8s, I always use compressed air and extra long
nose air gun to blast dirt out of the spark plug wells so it can't fall into the threads when the plugs
are finally replaced! Doing it every year means no dirt gets a chance to cake-on and break off
at the last minute while the plugs are worked on!
 
They do make a high temp anti seize for diesel injectors, or they did back when I owned one.
Might be something to consider.
 
I have never seen the need to use anti-seize on my spark plugs. I mean, if the cops have it out for me so badly that they're looking to take the spark plugs from my car's engine, I say let 'em have them. If they're that intent on messing with me, a little anti-seize ain't gonna stop them from taking my stuff.

Heck, if anything, it might make them mad that they had to go to the trouble of inventing an excuse to confiscate my stuff, thereby causing them to be extra vengeful in their seizure tactics.

Best just to acquiesce and move on IMHO!
 
The best product I have found for anti seize is powered graphite. The kind that is sold for lock lubrication. Place a small quantity lengthwise on the plug threads and gently rub. It is a conductor so that it does not interfere with conductivity and is not effected by heat. Don't worry about getting some in the combustion chamber, as it is compatible with engine oil. FWIW

Oldtommy
 
I use a light oil like Tri-Flow.

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There are two questions I have: 1) Did the plugs have anti-seize from the factory? and 2) What does the plug manufacturer recommend?
 
I don't think you'll ever see antiseize on plugs from the factory. This is for two reasons. One, it's an extra manufacturing step, which costs money. Two, they're only worried about being able to remove them while in warranty. After that, they don't care.
 
I always use a little. Just a little dab will do ya. I only use NGK or Denso in my rides.
 
I'm sure someone has already mentioned it countless times but you cannot get the right torque with anti-seize on, at the right torque value they become over-torqued as the anti-seize succumbs to long term (years of spark plug lifetime) heat.

Plus it's uncalled for with plated plugs. Use it on the black phosphate (usually only the cheapest copper type) plugs only and then be very careful not to overtorque. Which you will do as mentioned above.
 
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