School Me on Spoke Tension Maintenance

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^^^ Sounds like a logical manufacturing process. Making sure the wheel is true radially and axially is the end goal, and final spoke adjustments is the only way to do that.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roeVaCQq5To

From reading what you've already done, you should be good. This example is a DOOCATEE.
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Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Just the ones that sounded like they needed it. More spokes than I expected had the dull thunk sound. Maybe 5 or six, maybe seven each wheel. Each wheel has 72 on this bike.

I have a question though, that my endeavor into learning spoked wheels has left unanswered as yet. I know that when they're manufactured, part of the finishing process is trueing them and that this is often done by hand. My question is during manufacture, when they're building or lacing the wheel, do they initially torque every single spoke the same, for this discussion let's say they set them @ 5 NM (44 in-lbs) as the possible value used. And then from there do they then spin it, check axial and radial runout and make minor adjustments (tighten select spokes) to bring runout to within acceptable range? That is, true the wheel by hand after initially setting all spokes to the same torque value. I think this is how they're done at the factory but don't know. Just wondering. Whole concept is rather fascinating. Never satisfied until I know the whole story on things, LoL.


This is the process I use when building a bicycle wheel. I don't use a torque wrench, but a tension meter that measures directly from the spoke. Before I had that tool, I used the note the spoke made when plucked like a guitar to measure the tension. Once the spokes reach a tension that pre-stresses the wheel enough for strength in the expected use, I go about truing the wheel and balancing the tension among spokes to help increase the durability and reduce the tendency for the wheel to go out of true.
 
The advice you got about "ringing" the spokes is sound. That's all that is required for regular inspection. The observation about not trusting the torque wrench on corroded spoke nipples is also sound.

All you are trying to avoid here is a broken spoke. With a regular flat tire (small leak or small puncture, like picking up a nail) you usually have a few seconds to understand what has happened and take the necessary action.

When you break a spoke and rip the tube the deflation is nearly instantaneous, and the bead usually comes off the rim. It's a mess. You don't get any more than a couple of seconds (if you are lucky) to understand what just happened and pick your line. Voluntary directional changes are usually not an option.

Scary. I have lived through two of them only because the drivers around me were attentive and courteous.

So at the recommended interval, lift the wheel off the ground and ring the spokes, as previously described. Tighten as previously described. While you have the bike in the air, set up a fixed pointer (anything works)against the edge of the rim, spin the wheel, and look for radial and axial runout that exceeds spec. It takes a real lot to deflect a rim, I wouldn't worry about it, but it's good to check for, and if you find it, then you can true the wheel or take it to the shop and let them do it.

Good for you, doing spoke inspections.
 
Originally Posted By: CCI
The advice you got about "ringing" the spokes is sound. That's all that is required for regular inspection. The observation about not trusting the torque wrench on corroded spoke nipples is also sound.

All you are trying to avoid here is a broken spoke. With a regular flat tire (small leak or small puncture, like picking up a nail) you usually have a few seconds to understand what has happened and take the necessary action.

When you break a spoke and rip the tube the deflation is nearly instantaneous, and the bead usually comes off the rim. It's a mess. You don't get any more than a couple of seconds (if you are lucky) to understand what just happened and pick your line. Voluntary directional changes are usually not an option.

Scary. I have lived through two of them only because the drivers around me were attentive and courteous.

So at the recommended interval, lift the wheel off the ground and ring the spokes, as previously described. Tighten as previously described. While you have the bike in the air, set up a fixed pointer (anything works)against the edge of the rim, spin the wheel, and look for radial and axial runout that exceeds spec. It takes a real lot to deflect a rim, I wouldn't worry about it, but it's good to check for, and if you find it, then you can true the wheel or take it to the shop and let them do it.

Good for you, doing spoke inspections.


Tires are tubeless (Alpina STS wheels), but understand the point you've cited. Used a zip tie for the fixed reference. Fastened to the topside reactive strut for the shaft drive on rear wheel, snipped off zip tie to get it ~ 2mm distance from vertical edge of rim for the axial runout check, all okay. Removed that one, fastened another snipped off longer to the same strut for the radial check on rear, all okay. Zip tie fastened to fender support on front for same checks.

Learned the zip tie trick from an old Harley mechanic.
 
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