Anti seize on spark plugs

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I'm doing my first ever spark plug job tomorrow on my 2003 Jetta. I am confused as to whether or not I should use anti-seize, as I've read varying opinions.

The plugs are autolite platinum. I am currently thinking I don't need to use them as the platinum ones aren't as likely to seize as copper, but am not certain.

Can anyone verify if I'm right or if I need to use anti-seize?
 
Platinum or not is immaterial. The plug manufacturers claim is that if the threads are nickel plated there is no need for anti-seize. I always use a small amount on the threads. Can't hurt. Don't get any on the electrodes.
 
[Quote-llmercll:] "I am currently thinking I don't need to use them as the platinum ones aren't as likely to seize as copper, but am not certain".
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It isn't the spark plug threads that are Platinum or Copper(or Iridium), it's the electrodes. As "redbone3" has mentioned, if the threads are already plated(nickle or otherwise), there is no need for anti-seize. However, I always use a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads. Also as mentioned, DON'T GET ANTI-SEIZE ON THE ELECTRODES!
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At this point in the car's life, it isn't going to matter as this is most likely the last plug change you'll be doing on the Jetta and in the next 14 years, it'll be someone else's concern or the car will be in the crusher.
 
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I've been using it for years on the threads of anything with a spark plug, and any kind of plug, no problems to report.
 
Originally Posted By: llmercll
I'm doing my first ever spark plug job tomorrow on my 2003 Jetta. I am confused as to whether or not I should use anti-seize, as I've read varying opinions.

The plugs are autolite platinum. I am currently thinking I don't need to use them as the platinum ones aren't as likely to seize as copper, but am not certain.

Can anyone verify if I'm right or if I need to use anti-seize?


All plugs are copper but not the threads or electrodes. Antiseize is probably applicable to used plugs but not on new because of the anti friction plating. My Honda FSM says to use antizeize on the threads and torque to 18 #. YMMV
 
I think of it this way. The combustion gasses push their way up tye tyreads to the crush seal on the outside of tye block. You f antisieze is in there it is incompressable so it will block the migration of exhaust soot from going up there abd cruddibg up the the threads
 
I use a very small amount on plugs, even the nickel coated ones. Many say its not needed but I have had some newer ones be a pain to get out. So a very small amount goes a long way.
 
I would do whatever the plug manufacturer suggests. NGK says not to, so I don't.

"NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."
 
As far as torque goes, I still use what the plug manufacturer says for that engine. Snug down then 1/4 - 3/4 turn. I try to make it to nearly 3/4 but stop when my knuckles turn white.
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The real issue here is aluminum powder kills oxygen sensors. You'd have to be a real slob putting excess A-S on there to do that, but what you put on is multiplied by 4, 6 or 8 (the number of spark plugs), so the industry gives the usual generic advice not to use it (without explaining why.)

But if you have aluminum heads, you shouldn't be using an aluminum based anti-seize on spark plugs anyway. Use an anti-seize that is a.) a dissimilar metal to the head and spark plug, and b.) compatible with the downstream O2 (lambda) sensor. That means bronze anti-seize, or nickel IF (and only if) the spark plug threads aren't already covered with nickel plating. And, use it sparingly! I put a dab on one spark plug, and then rub it off on all the rest by rubbing the threads round-and-round together, then wipe off the excess on all plugs. It should only slightly color the threads all around, and not exist at all on the face (electrode and cylinder facing side).
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've been using it for years on the threads of anything with a spark plug, and any kind of plug, no problems to report.


I've havn't been using it for years on the threads of cars, motorcycles 2 and 4 stroke and a mercury outboard , no problems to report, so far.

So you pays your money, and you takes your choice.

(Lately I've been using NGK's which say not to.)
 
Originally Posted By: robertcope
I would do whatever the plug manufacturer suggests. NGK says not to, so I don't.

"NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."


The plating while better than non plated threads doesn't always work as intended . They don't recommend anything additional for liability reasons not because the coating is that good.
Manufacturers quickly change their tune when for example the dealers are lifting cabs off to repair plugs that wont come out or break off. All of a sudden there is a TSB to use never seize.

I have put a very small amount on every plug I have changed working as a pro since 1975, no exceptions and never had an issue.
All it takes is a very small amount and get none near the electrodes and reduce the torque installing them, just tighten them firm with a 3/8 ratchet is good enough.
Most of the time the torque value is too low for the tool to be accurate and the area too confined to use a torque wrench.
Lathering it on and tightening them like lug nuts is a recipe for disaster.
 
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
As far as torque goes, I still use what the plug manufacturer says for that engine. Snug down then 1/4 - 3/4 turn. I try to make it to nearly 3/4 but stop when my knuckles turn white.
smile.gif


I believe that's for plugs that have a single use crush washer. Others just use a bevel.
 
I don't see a need for never-seize. Maybe on something that's going to see extended use in the corrosive conditions a Northern winter has to offer, but even then if it's not exposed to many, many miles on the nastiest roads and the plugs will stay in it forever, I'm going to say it's not necessary.

But please, use something other than Autolites. Every set I've pulled out has been substantially eroded - that's probably more than a dozen sets, and they can't all have been at 150% their intended lifespan. There's a reason they're cheap.
 
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It won't hurt but can help. If you plan on keeping the car and risk a messed up head with plug replacement do it. Cheap insurance.
 
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