Originally Posted By: dparm
Daniel, again, I'm all for productive debate about the principles of oil analysis, but I feel like that sort of derails my thread about this specific report. The analysis is already done and the results are here, so at the very least, I was hoping for some insight on that.
A discussion about Blackstone vs others is a good one, but shouldn't that be in a separate thread?
Sure, however to answer your original question of what is better is difficult. I did throw some blanket oils for you out there, RL, RLI, Amsoil, Motul, M1EP. You can start there and get one of the highest aftermarket filters (WIX XP, Bosch Purolator, STP XL, etc).
But, you can't really narrow which one would work best without more data so we can see what's really happening. It's difficult to tell right now because there is too much break in wear. So with elemental out of the picture, we just took out a giant chunk out of the UOA. We have no FTIR, no GC or KF. We have TBN/AN but those I don't look at unless we're doing an extended drain, in your case your acid is far too high. M1 has really good acid fighting chemistries, so seeing a high number is not good.
So now we don't know how much wear was from acid and fuel dilution and how much was from break in. You can start to see for someone who can actually guide you, based on professional experience in the racing industry, it's not as simple as just shouting out one magic oil or brand. I did give a starting point for some oils and filters though.
1. Your flash point is too low, this is fuel dilution, indicator you have poor ring seal.
2. Viscosity is too low, due to fuels dilution, M1 does not shear, it is a robust formula.
3. Acid is too high.
4. Looks like you did get it broken in well. I'd stomp on it more to make 100% sure.
Daniel, again, I'm all for productive debate about the principles of oil analysis, but I feel like that sort of derails my thread about this specific report. The analysis is already done and the results are here, so at the very least, I was hoping for some insight on that.
A discussion about Blackstone vs others is a good one, but shouldn't that be in a separate thread?
Sure, however to answer your original question of what is better is difficult. I did throw some blanket oils for you out there, RL, RLI, Amsoil, Motul, M1EP. You can start there and get one of the highest aftermarket filters (WIX XP, Bosch Purolator, STP XL, etc).
But, you can't really narrow which one would work best without more data so we can see what's really happening. It's difficult to tell right now because there is too much break in wear. So with elemental out of the picture, we just took out a giant chunk out of the UOA. We have no FTIR, no GC or KF. We have TBN/AN but those I don't look at unless we're doing an extended drain, in your case your acid is far too high. M1 has really good acid fighting chemistries, so seeing a high number is not good.
So now we don't know how much wear was from acid and fuel dilution and how much was from break in. You can start to see for someone who can actually guide you, based on professional experience in the racing industry, it's not as simple as just shouting out one magic oil or brand. I did give a starting point for some oils and filters though.
1. Your flash point is too low, this is fuel dilution, indicator you have poor ring seal.
2. Viscosity is too low, due to fuels dilution, M1 does not shear, it is a robust formula.
3. Acid is too high.
4. Looks like you did get it broken in well. I'd stomp on it more to make 100% sure.
