Subaru Crank Bolt

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: Todari09
My bad, it's 132.8 ft-lbs, 180 N-M.
yes, my alternator is original and the bearing is still good

Yes, I was concerned about the alternator bearing also but it's fine.


I would probably try it on my car but not someone else’s, especially with interference engine.

 

[mk378]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
I would probably try it on my car but not someone else’s, especially with interference engine.

Interference engine doesn't have anything to do with it. It looks like that could put a crease in the belt, but if you're replacing the alternator / power steering belt as part of the job anyway, use the old belt.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: mk378
Originally Posted By: artbuc
I would probably try it on my car but not someone else’s, especially with interference engine.

Interference engine doesn't have anything to do with it. It looks like that could put a crease in the belt, but if you're replacing the alternator / power steering belt as part of the job anyway, use the old belt.


Good catch. I will be installing new accessory belts but I do not want to toast the alternator.

 

[mk378]

That's not going to hurt the alternator. There is probably more force on it when running normally.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: mk378
That's not going to hurt the alternator. There is probably more force on it when running normally.


You may be right but I would not do it unless I saw the static and dynamic load calculations. I do not know how to do them myself but probably someone knows. I could see a static load approaching 800 lbs breaking bolt free. I would be concerned about brinelling.

http://www.astbearings.com/radial-ball-bearings-life-and-load-ratings.html

Here is an alternator bearing which can take almost 8k newtons. If the Subie alternator bearings have this kind of rating you are probably correct.

https://www.bearingscanada.com/6205-2RS-...tor-2552x15.htm

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted By: mk378
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
You'll feel a slight jolt. Make sure and turn the key off immediately!

You're serious?

I mean if you were to try what is described, you should at least disable the ignition system so there's not a chance the engine will start. Then there is the issue that the bolt can't be reinstalled and properly tightened this way.


This is commonly done on Hondas as well. Disconnect the coil packs so it doesn't fire.

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
...I can't assume crank bolt is torqued to factory specs. I am expecting it may be a bear to remove….Also, seems to be a lot of confusion about crank bolt torque. Some say 94, some say 130, some say oil threads, some say dry. Unfortunately, I do not have a FSM. Some of the confusion might be 2.2 vs 2.5 and/or SOHC vs DOHC. Anyone know for sure how to properly torque this crank bolt?

Thanks.


Based on the (poorly written) 2008 FSM for SOHC:

Quote:
B: INSTALLATION

1) Install the crank pulley.
(1b) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air.
(2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread.
(3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 32.5 ft-lb).
(4) Tighten the crank pulley bolt again, to 180 N·m (18.4 kgf-m, 132.8 ft-kb) while monitoring the tightening angle
5) Check that the tightening angle of the crank pulley bolt is 65° or more.

CAUTION:
If the tightening angle of crank pulley bolt is less than 65°, the bolt is damaged. In this case, the bolt must be replaced.

(1) Replace the crank pulley bolt and clean them.
(2) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air.
(3) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread.
(4) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 32.5 ft-lb).
(5) Tighten the crank pulley bolts 65° to 75°.

NOTE:
Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of crank pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on timing belt cover.


IMO, it would be wise to buy a new crank pulley bolt.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: artbuc
...I can't assume crank bolt is torqued to factory specs. I am expecting it may be a bear to remove….Also, seems to be a lot of confusion about crank bolt torque. Some say 94, some say 130, some say oil threads, some say dry. Unfortunately, I do not have a FSM. Some of the confusion might be 2.2 vs 2.5 and/or SOHC vs DOHC. Anyone know for sure how to properly torque this crank bolt?

Thanks.


Based on the (poorly written) 2008 FSM:

Quote:
B: INSTALLATION

1) Install the crank pulley.
(1b) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air.
(2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread.
(3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 32.5 ft-lb).
(4) Tighten the crank pulley bolt again, to 180 N·m (18.4 kgf-m, 132.8 ft-kb) while monitoring the tightening angle
5) Check that the tightening angle of the crank pulley bolt is 65° or more.

CAUTION:
If the tightening angle of crank pulley bolt is less than 65°, the bolt is damaged. In this case, the bolt must be replaced.

(1) Replace the crank pulley bolt and clean them.
(2) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air.
(3) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread.
(4) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 32.5 ft-lb).
(5) Tighten the crank pulley bolts 65° to 75°.

NOTE:
Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of crank pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on timing belt cover.


IMO, it would be wise to buy a new crank pulley bolt.


Yes, I already told owner I am buying new bolt because I have no good way of knowing if existing bolt was torqued beyond yield. Rather spend a few bucks for a new bolt than screw around torquing bolt and then hoping angle is within spec.