Subaru Crank Bolt

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Getting ready to do first timing belt on 2007 Outback 2.5 basic, non turbo @ 91k miles. Dealer replaced leaking head gaskets (under warranty) so I can't assume crank bolt is torqued to factory specs. I am expecting it may be a bear to remove as I do not have enough room between a/c condenser and pulley for my impact. Several folks on various Subaru forums say to insert a stout screw driver or socket extension in the flex plate inspection port to lock engine. I have heard about folks doing this on other engines too. My question/concern is overstressing or breaking the flex plate. What is the inspection port for? Is it there to allow someone to lock the engine? Can flex plate take the stress of removing a stubborn crank bolt?

Also, seems to be a lot of confusion about crank bolt torque. Some say 94, some say 130, some say oil threads, some say dry. Unfortunately, I do not have a FSM. Some of the confusion might be 2.2 vs 2.5 and/or SOHC vs DOHC. Anyone know for sure how to properly torque this crank bolt?

Thanks.
 
Please don't take this as a snarky post, but I never, ever perform major maintenance on a car without the factory service manual, or a good substitute (Haynes or Alldata). There's just too much I can screw up and the questions you are asking would be answered with proper documentation. I would not trust anything else. You say you do not have anything but I would get it.
 
Assenmacher SU7250 Crank Pulley Holder

s-l1600.jpg
 
Use two breaker bars, one on the bolt and one on the pulley holder, and pull in opposite directions.

If the car is manual you can just shift into 5 and set the brake to keep the crank from turning.
 
Easy peasy. Use a 22mm socket on a long breaker bar. Wedge the handle of the breaker bar on the ground, pointing towards the drivers side of the engine. Then, BRIEFLY engage the starter. You'll feel a slight jolt. Make sure and turn the key off immediately!

Works every time.
 
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Easy peasy. Use a 22mm socket on a long breaker bar. Wedge the handle of the breaker bar on the ground, pointing towards the drivers side of the engine. Then, BRIEFLY engage the starter. You'll feel a slight jolt. Make sure and turn the key off immediately!

Works every time.


Yes, have used this several times on my Toyota’s but am concerned to do this on my friend’s Subie cuz I have no confidence in how dealer reinstalled crank bolt when he did the head gasket job. Also, still need to hold crank pulley to torque.
 
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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Please don't take this as a snarky post, but I never, ever perform major maintenance on a car without the factory service manual, or a good substitute (Haynes or Alldata). There's just too much I can screw up and the questions you are asking would be answered with proper documentation. I would not trust anything else. You say you do not have anything but I would get it.


I agree. That is why I got the FSM before I did my wife’s MDX. However, after watching many excellent videos, this timing belt is not at all tricky...just want to confirm torque spec. Also, since Subaru makes service tools to hold the crank pulley, I am quite sure that is what the FSM would recommend. I believe the flex plate inspection port is there for one purpose, to inspect. However, if if can safely be used to lock engine, I would be willing to try it.
 
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Originally Posted By: 14Accent
You'll feel a slight jolt. Make sure and turn the key off immediately!

You're serious?

I mean if you were to try what is described, you should at least disable the ignition system so there's not a chance the engine will start. Then there is the issue that the bolt can't be reinstalled and properly tightened this way.
 
Originally Posted By: Todari09
This is how I removed and reinstalled the crank bolt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnkcnqF_S3c
Torque is 138.2 ft-lbs according to Service Manual page H4SO-42.


Yikes! Is your alternator bearing screaming yet? I saw that video and quickly concluded that is not for me. I think you mean 132.8.
 
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Originally Posted By: artbuc
Just found this

https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/resources/tech-tips-and-tsbs/subaru_loctite.pdf


Got access to the FSM and the Gates procedure is correct.
 
I made my own similar looking tool out of plywood and (IIRC) 8mm bolts to hold the crank. If I changed these every day, I'd buy the Amazon tool, but it works well enough that I've loaned it to a few folks.
 
My bad, it's 132.8 ft-lbs, 180 N-M.
yes, my alternator is original and the bearing is still good
laugh.gif

Yes, I was concerned about the alternator bearing also but it's fine.
 
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