SAE 30

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Originally Posted By: Ryan_in_MN
Winters here from the weather data I looked at get about 38 for an average low. So, I'm going to get some days below freezing. I probably will just wait until March or April to put it in, since I never know if I'll venture out of the LV valley. Don't plan on it, but rather be safe than sorry.

Good info, I like your thinking here!
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Occasionally, there are full synthetic oils rated as straight 30. I would expect better flow at low temperatures with such a choice, vs a conventional straight 30.


I've heard of a synthetic SAE 30 which also passes as a 10W30.

Edit: This is it, Amsoil SAE30 / 10W30 Heavy Duty
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m...duty-motor-oil/


I recall this as well...

*I see...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: kschachn
So you guys with the he-man stories of starting at sub-zero temps using straight weight oils are saying that is a good thing to do somehow? Wouldn't it be far better to use a multi-vis in those situations, considering it isn't 1960 any more?


Not advocating anything here...

But like the argument that synthetics get their "0W" rating "by accident because of their superior basestocks", SAE30 (and I'll qualify that to basically any decent manufacturer SAE30) will be a 20W, 25W, or maybe even 15W in action.

If they aren't selling them as a multi, and they don't have VII in them, then they stick to SAE30, with the option of listing a W rating...which they don't as that would be confusing.

Soon as they add VII, they have to give the lowest W rating that the oil achieves (can't sell a 0W30 as 5W30).

These aren't the old waxy GrI oils that they were in 1960.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Much like what Merc is doing with the 25w40 marine stuff …


Exactly...and down here we have Castrol Edge 25W50, and Nulon 25W60 which are mono as well.
 
One of my bikes recommends 20W/30, not something you can buy now, but figure a 30 is pretty close these days, using an HDEO 30 now. I've run it at 5c, not likely to ride it under zero, but wouldn't be worried about doing so...we only go to minus 3 here.
 
In Lost Wages, I'd be happy to run it year round
laugh.gif


In Cali near the Bay Area, I'll be running modern SAE 40 SN in the old Bronco year round starting with the next oil change
smile.gif


No need for W oils here
laugh.gif
 
While living in Maine in the 60s and 70s I used Valvoline 10-40 in a couple of engines. One Chevy V8 and one Dodge Slant 6. I noticed when the temp dropped below -5F it starts getting lifter clatter and much slower cranking with the Chevy. After changing to M1 5-20 the engine turned over noticeably faster and had no valve train clatter at all, even in temps down to -20F.
 
Originally Posted By: Ryan_in_MN
Thanks for the feedback guys. I have 10 quarts of leftover delo SAE 30 that I scored for cheap and would use in lawn equipment. I have since moved from MN to Las Vegas. No more lawn. Thinking of putting in my 2011 chevy truck come summer time to use it up.

Perfect!
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
While living in Maine in the 60s and 70s I used Valvoline 10-40 in a couple of engines. One Chevy V8 and one Dodge Slant 6. I noticed when the temp dropped below -5F it starts getting lifter clatter and much slower cranking with the Chevy. After changing to M1 5-20 the engine turned over noticeably faster and had no valve train clatter at all, even in temps down to -20F.


SAE 30 relevance here ????

You always berate me to stay on topic...or is it just the tourettes playing up ?
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
While living in Maine in the 60s and 70s I used Valvoline 10-40 in a couple of engines. One Chevy V8 and one Dodge Slant 6. I noticed when the temp dropped below -5F it starts getting lifter clatter and much slower cranking with the Chevy. After changing to M1 5-20 the engine turned over noticeably faster and had no valve train clatter at all, even in temps down to -20F.


SAE 30 relevance here ????

You always berate me to stay on topic...or is it just the tourettes playing up ?


In some cases 30-40 wt oils can cause harder starting than necessary. In the 60's at one point I tried using straight Valvo 30 in the summer and straight Valvo 20 in the winter in my 69 Ford Fairlane. That didn't work well in sub zero temps so I started using Valvo 10-40 but that didn't perform well either, as I stated earlier, in the winter.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
While living in Maine in the 60s and 70s I used Valvoline 10-40 in a couple of engines. One Chevy V8 and one Dodge Slant 6. I noticed when the temp dropped below -5F it starts getting lifter clatter and much slower cranking with the Chevy. After changing to M1 5-20 the engine turned over noticeably faster and had no valve train clatter at all, even in temps down to -20F.


SAE 30 relevance here ????

You always berate me to stay on topic...or is it just the tourettes playing up ?


In some cases 30-40 wt oils can cause harder starting than necessary. In the 60's at one point I tried using straight Valvo 30 in the summer and straight Valvo 20 in the winter in my 69 Ford Fairlane. That didn't work well in sub zero temps so I started using Valvo 10-40 but that didn't perform well either, as I stated earlier, in the winter.


Well, you're better than the posters that posts weird walls of texts and expect everyone to know what they mean. Those posts aren't on-topic, either.

I'm about to put some SAE 30 motor oil in my car because the engine is really noisy and almost sounds like it has rocks in it.
 
Originally Posted By: LaCocina27
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
While living in Maine in the 60s and 70s I used Valvoline 10-40 in a couple of engines. One Chevy V8 and one Dodge Slant 6. I noticed when the temp dropped below -5F it starts getting lifter clatter and much slower cranking with the Chevy. After changing to M1 5-20 the engine turned over noticeably faster and had no valve train clatter at all, even in temps down to -20F.


SAE 30 relevance here ????

You always berate me to stay on topic...or is it just the tourettes playing up ?


In some cases 30-40 wt oils can cause harder starting than necessary. In the 60's at one point I tried using straight Valvo 30 in the summer and straight Valvo 20 in the winter in my 69 Ford Fairlane. That didn't work well in sub zero temps so I started using Valvo 10-40 but that didn't perform well either, as I stated earlier, in the winter.


Well, you're better than the posters that posts weird walls of texts and expect everyone to know what they mean. Those posts aren't on-topic, either.

I'm about to put some SAE 30 motor oil in my car because the engine is really noisy and almost sounds like it has rocks in it.


If you live in a year round warm climate then you should be OK.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
If you live in a year round warm climate then you should be OK.


Well. I was going to add it to 1/5 my sump which presently has its recommended amount. of 5W-20 in it since I just did an oil change. Or the rest of the quart of 10W-40, which is about as thick ?

Readability made me edit, but I want you to see that I said that you're better than these miserable nonsense posters that post up walls of text like they are the Illuminati. Thank you for at least being useful.
 
Originally Posted By: LaCocina27
Well, you're better than the posters that posts weird walls of texts and expect everyone to know what they mean. Those posts aren't on-topic, either.


Grab my post in this thread...the wierd wall of text, and tell me what's not on the topi of SAE30 and cold weather starting.

If you don't understand the science, and can't be bothered learning it...it's NOT my problem.

"I switched from 10W-40 to 5W20" is relevent how ???

You've sure got a lot of knowledge of people's behaviour for a "newbie"...it's a bit far fetched if you ask me.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: LaCocina27
Well, you're better than the posters that posts weird walls of texts and expect everyone to know what they mean. Those posts aren't on-topic, either.


Grab my post in this thread...the wierd wall of text, and tell me what's not on the topi of SAE30 and cold weather starting.

If you don't understand the science, and can't be bothered learning it...it's NOT my problem.

"I switched from 10W-40 to 5W20" is relevent how ???

You've sure got a lot of knowledge of people's behaviour for a "newbie"...it's a bit far fetched if you ask me.


Hey now. I was NOT referring to you. There is an indecipherable wall of text over on the "Collective knowledge" thread from a member of the peanut gallery that doesn't have anything to do with anything and is just weird. I was saying tig1 is better than that useless whatever it is.

I'm a psychologist, I've seen many things you wouldn't believe, and I'm not new to the Internet as a whole.
You're fine, man.
 
I remember my father starting his car in -20F winter in Eastern Oregon. This was the early seventies. He only ran Havoline SAE30 wt. That engine complained a bunch but after the clatter went away he stuck a stick he made between the throttle and the seat and came back inside for another cup of coffee. Then he drove 20 miles down a lonely highway to work at a sugar beet plant. It might sound like bull hockey but I was there. I delivered the Oregonian in the same weather at age 15.
 
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