Serious discussion about 10W syn for winter

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
For winter i suggested blending pp 5w20 and pp 10w30. I was considering noack and low viscosity modifiers for op.
There was no a3b4 consideration.

But, A3/B4 would be my consideration here, considering that's one of the easiest ways to get a 0w-XX or even 5w-XX with good Noack and a sensible price.

Now, the original poster is in Canada, so mail in rebates and oil at $2 a quart aren't even on the radar, but a jug of M1 0w-40 or Castrol 0w-40 A3/B4 at roughly $30 is on the radar. He'll have a hard enough time finding a 10w-30 synthetic on the shelf reliably. Our Canadian Tires don't even stock any of the Shell 10w-30 synthetics, nor do they carry it in Castrol gold bottle.

As for a failure, I tend to run the exact same oil for very extended periods of time. Mobil's warranty doesn't have a prorating provision or shared responsibility provision with Shell or Valvoline or Castrol. When you mix, you're on your own. The oil companies don't guarantee mixes, aside from API miscibility standards. As I mentioned, when I have a vehicle that consumes, I carry some in the trunk. If I didn't, of course I'd add wherever I found oil. That doesn't mean I'd put in five different branded litres at an oil change.

When I had my LTD, it burned a whack of oil. I always had at least two litres of GTX in the trunk. The F-150 used to leak a lot, and I always carried top off until I got the leaks under control. Living in Saskatchewan sometimes means being miles away from an open gas station, so carrying top up is prudent, as Shannow indicated. I've never bought top up at a gas station in my life, and the LTD could burn 1 litre on a 150 mile highway drive. I was simply prepared.

As to finding out something you just got is an oil burner for the first time, you probably don't know what's in the sump anyhow. So, if it were me, I'd do what I always do. I change the oil as soon as I buy the vehicle and buy a couple extra quarts because I'm used to vehicles burning oil.

Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Why dont you just state who will pay for lube related failure above?

The person mixing will. The oil companies certainly would not.

What do you want to improve about the winter rating system? Do you know of a test that we don't? Pour point was eliminated for a reason, and MRV brought into the picture for that very reason. What weaknesses do you see in the winter rating system?

It's never failed me. I choose a 5w-XX or very occasionally a 0w-XX in the winter, and it's served me very well, and we get a real winter here. I've never been steered wrong choosing an oil based on the current winter rating system.
 
Garak again you are going on and on about what you wud do in situations v. what average joe or jane will do.

You can recommend 0w40 but they have lot of viscosity improvers and noack 8 9 or 10 or not published.

Op to me sounded like he was settling on 10w30 but not 100 percent confident. I glanced at his post and suggested to blend some pp 5w20 in with pp 10w30 for the winter.

If you top off with a quart of pp 5w20 to existing m1 5w20 ep sump then a lube related failure on a warrantied new car will be paid by the car manufacturer.

Oil scholars geniuses etc who print that you can add pp to synthetic and mineral oil know what they print after carefully studying oil properties. Bitogers who assume otherwise are in error. I dont recall seeing any concerns with mixing brands regarding topping off in owners manuals.

Now turning to mixing on purposes different weights where in a few cases one can satisfy their own personalized criteria. I for one want noack of around 5 and something more heavy duty than pp or qsud 10w30. Blending qsud or pp 10w30 with pyb 20w50 in various proportions gives me a whole range of heavy duty oil with noack of 5 with cost effectiveness. My temps will be above 25F for sure and really above 60F for the season under consideration. I will acheive my targets. Ya the ccs might be xxxx + 1 at some set temp rather than xxxx and so it might fail a W rating and be considered one higher winter grade (5w v dreaded 10w v 15w etc). It will be cosidered non optimal. Hey but i can live with that. If i recall correctly 20w50 is tested at minus 15f so whatever proportion i am blending should crank easily for my season under consideration.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
If i recall correctly 20w50 is tested at minus 15f so whatever proportion i am blending should crank easily for my season under consideration.


It's in the Chart OVERKILL posted.

It's -15 celsius, NOT Fahrenheit

So how well can you claim that your sensible and methodological mixing is based on anything but wild arshe guesses...can't even get the range of units right.
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Haha yes minus 15c.


Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

I am happy for you but afraid you are not providing a persuasive argument against careful and thoughtful mixing.


How is it careful and thoughtful if you have no idea what the end result is, just guesses /


You've just argued against our own "careful and thoughtful"...

You didn't even grasp j300, D6922, and are arguing that you have an intended outcomes.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
If i recall correctly 20w50 is tested at minus 15f so whatever proportion i am blending should crank easily for my season under consideration.


It's in the Chart OVERKILL posted.

It's -15 celsius, NOT Fahrenheit

So how well can you claim that your sensible and methodological mixing is based on anything but wild arshe guesses...can't even get the range of units right.


If thats the best you can do then you are truly an oil clown.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

If thats the best you can do then you are truly an oil clown.
smile.gif



You claim to be doing this with knowledgeable intent

But have absolutely no idea whatsoever of the fundamentals.

How does that make me a clown ?

Which troll did you used to be ??
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
If thats the best you can do then you are truly an oil clown.
smile.gif


Which troll did you used to be ??

You might be right about that. At first he seemed to be able to have an actual dialog (despite disagreements) but now its degenerated into name calling and just outright goofy arguments. People have been responding to his comments but then he ignores 99% of the response and just continues on with the silly arguments. That's too bad.
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Garak again you are going on and on about what you wud do in situations v. what average joe or jane will do.

The original poster is in Canada, just like I am, so there is some relevance there. Note that there are also Noack limits with certain European specifications. VIIs are also nice to have in the winter. I also stated that 10w-30 would work just fine, with a couple caveats. With respect to 10w-30 PP and 10w-30 PUP, he cannot buy them here at a reasonable price. They are not a realistic option. Canadian Tire does not sell those products in 10w-30. Walmart Canada never has PUP of any viscosity, and only sometimes has PP at a reasonable price, and then generally only in 5w-30. Other places may have it at $70 or more a jug for special order. Or, he has to buy in quantity from the distributor, if he has one nearby. So, these magical low Noack oils (that may not have that magical low Noack any longer) aren't even on most of his shelves, and where he can find them, he's paying over double the acceptable Canadian price, much less what would be an acceptable American price. And, no, before you mention it, Walmart US and Amazon US won't help him one lick.

You read way, way too much into the miscibility standard. Saying you "can" mix doesn't mean you should or that it will make an oil better. Let's not talk about it, why don't you back up your assertion? Make one of your mixes. Send it somewhere that can test for Noack and MRV and CCS, and let's see if your assertions hold true beyond the miscibility standard.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
This will be a long post, but bear with me.

Will a 10W full-synthetic oil work perfectly fine in a relatively cold winter, where one would usually use a 5W-30?

On here these days, '10W' oils are getting a lot of attention b/c of there better shear stability and lower NOAK values, but many people would hesitate to use them in a relatively cold northern winter. But would they be just as good?

Many 10W synthetic oils have very low pour points and CCS values, so much so that they are almost a 5W oil. Many have speculated most are the same formula, just sightly tweaked. So I can't see there being any cranking problems down to even -30C with these oils.

Back in the early days of syns, the 1970's, most oils were 10W-40, including the new syns. Back then, one of the main observations made about the new synthetic oils was how much easier cars started in cold weather, even if a 10W-40 oil was used. So, a 10W full syn will always crank over much better than a 10W conventional.

Also, if you look at a lot of PDS's, many 10W-30 synthetic oils meet GM 6094M; which could only be met in a conventional oil in a 5W-30 due to required CCS values. So, a 10W-30 synthetic could be said to be equivalent to a 5W-30 conventional, which means it should be good down to -30C.

My Kia runs a lot smoother and consumes less oil on 10W-30, so I was thinking for this winter of using a top-shelf 10W-30 over the winter in it. BUT, I have had my last vehicle completely 'lock up' at an actual air temp of -29.5C with 10W-30 conventional in the sump. Our winter low temps around here are 'usually' in the -18C to -24C range; but we do have cold snaps where it can go to -29C to -32C. This is getting too cold for a 10W conventional, but would a 10W full-syn handle it okay?
Much adieu. I go with the flow theory. 0w-20 in winter.
 
Wow. Did I ever stir up a hornets nest!

Sorry, can't always make it back to a thread these days.

To clarify, my 2010 Soul 2L is noisy at start up, very noisy. I feel this can't be good for the engine.

It is a bit better on 10W-30 oil. Still noisy, but not as often. Just thought if I ran a good-pumping/flowing 10W-30 through winter, could have quiet start-ups without problems starting. That's all.

Still undecided about what I'm doing.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top