13 GS350 13mo extreme short tripper VSP 0w20 5162m

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Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


I don't disagree that there is fuel here, the real practical question is so what, and what do I do about it? There would still be fuel if I changed it fall and spring, likely just as much in the spring sample and next to none in the fall sample. Nickel is also an alloying metal used in everything else steel inside the engine from the cylinder liners to the camshaft and timing components. It's just as likely from there as the valve guides. Furthermore how do you figure that viscosity has slipped out of grade? The measured values look good to me. Your RC-F is wearing better, again so what? My mom doesn't drive your RC-F, she drives this car and at almost 70 it's there to serve her and not the other way around. [/quote]

So what? Well, do you care about your mom's fuel economy? Fuel dilution chews up engines and fuel economy like you couldn't believe. The question is how long is your mom going to keep this car? as long as it runs or up to 50K and then swap again at the dealer.

1. If you had an even slightly better UOA you could target what's the cause of the FD, that's not more than [censored].

2. Your insolubles are high, this is EGRed fuel residuals and poor filtration on this engine. This thing is getting hammered.
2a. You can start by using a better filter, I assume you're using the OE paper filter?

3. I'd switch to M1EP or AP in a 0W20 with a WIX XP filter. If you have a bit more money, the Amsoil SS is the way to go. The purolator does well too, but XP is the best at combating FD.

4. Get her a big bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel Systems Cleaner. Amsoil and VP racing 's cleaners are another good option.

5. What kind of fuel does your mom use? Can we get her to use Shell or Mobil?

6. This oil shouldn't drop more than 7.8cst at 5,000. 6.98 is WAY out of grade. Any decent lab would have flagged this at 7.6cst.

7. I did lots of work for Lexus, Nickel is a valve guide alloy, it is not found any where else in this engine. When I did work for Lexus 3GT, I got all sorts of info that is not available to the average BITOGer. Nickel is almost always a piston alloy or valve train metal in any engine.

8. Because it shows you on a larger engine with the same driving style but even harder, what proper UOA and selection does. It's merely an example for you to look at and see that there are solutions, unlike everything you've been told by Blackstone that it's all normal, etc.

9. You can't discount this UOA on the premise it serves your mother. Well exactly, it serves your mother so do you want it running like [censored]? These cars have a big difference when they idle rough or idle smooth, all of it adds up. That's not even money on oil and gas. I think you and I would much rather see this car serve her at optimal condition, saving her money and oil changes, than seeing it run rough and her having to do more than she needs to.


If your mother can get 10,000 miles out of an OCI and improve her fuel economy, decrease wear, I think you and I can agree, it would serve her better.

Lastly, you need FTIR and TAN to see some other details. 2 quality UOA's are worth more than a lifetime of Blackstone UOAs.
 
Originally Posted By: danielLD
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


I don't disagree that there is fuel here, the real practical question is so what, and what do I do about it? There would still be fuel if I changed it fall and spring, likely just as much in the spring sample and next to none in the fall sample. Nickel is also an alloying metal used in everything else steel inside the engine from the cylinder liners to the camshaft and timing components. It's just as likely from there as the valve guides. Furthermore how do you figure that viscosity has slipped out of grade? The measured values look good to me. Your RC-F is wearing better, again so what? My mom doesn't drive your RC-F, she drives this car and at almost 70 it's there to serve her and not the other way around.


So what? Well, do you care about your mom's fuel economy? Fuel dilution chews up engines and fuel economy like you couldn't believe. The question is how long is your mom going to keep this car? as long as it runs or up to 50K and then swap again at the dealer.

1. If you had an even slightly better UOA you could target what's the cause of the FD, that's not more than [censored].

2. Your insolubles are high, this is EGRed fuel residuals and poor filtration on this engine. This thing is getting hammered.
2a. You can start by using a better filter, I assume you're using the OE paper filter?

3. I'd switch to M1EP or AP in a 0W20 with a WIX XP filter. If you have a bit more money, the Amsoil SS is the way to go. The purolator does well too, but XP is the best at combating FD.

4. Get her a big bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel Systems Cleaner. Amsoil and VP racing 's cleaners are another good option.

5. What kind of fuel does your mom use? Can we get her to use Shell or Mobil?

6. This oil shouldn't drop more than 7.8cst at 5,000. 6.98 is WAY out of grade. Any decent lab would have flagged this at 7.6cst.

7. I did lots of work for Lexus, Nickel is a valve guide alloy, it is not found any where else in this engine. When I did work for Lexus 3GT, I got all sorts of info that is not available to the average BITOGer. Nickel is almost always a piston alloy or valve train metal in any engine.

8. Because it shows you on a larger engine with the same driving style but even harder, what proper UOA and selection does. It's merely an example for you to look at and see that there are solutions, unlike everything you've been told by Blackstone that it's all normal, etc.

9. You can't discount this UOA on the premise it serves your mother. Well exactly, it serves your mother so do you want it running like [censored]? These cars have a big difference when they idle rough or idle smooth, all of it adds up. That's not even money on oil and gas. I think you and I would much rather see this car serve her at optimal condition, saving her money and oil changes, than seeing it run rough and her having to do more than she needs to.


If your mother can get 10,000 miles out of an OCI and improve her fuel economy, decrease wear, I think you and I can agree, it would serve her better.

Lastly, you need FTIR and TAN to see some other details. 2 quality UOA's are worth more than a lifetime of Blackstone UOAs.




I already know the cause of her fuel dilution, she short trips the car, in cold (below 20 degree F) weather 6 months out of the year. That's not a mystery here. It routinely gets driven 2-3 miles then shut off. I'm not going to ask her to change her driving habits to suit her car.

Yes insolubles are higher than I'd like to see, but again it's short tripped, a longer OCI with any oil with everything else the same is unlikely to cure this. A different filter may help but we have a case of Lexus filters that will be used. This UOA was not with a Lexus filter. This run was done with a Hastings filter. A wix XP isn't even made for her application and I don't agree with your beliefs that a XP would have any effect on her fuel dilution.

On the oil EP or AFE is a complete waste for a 5-6k OCI IMO, not to mention I still have several years of VSP and Napa Synthetic on the shelf bought on sale or on clearance. Amsoil is completely out of the question. Once all this oil is gone I'll buy whatever's on sale or has a rebate.

The car gets a bottle of Gumout All in One or Chevron FI cleaner every 2 months regardless of mileage.

No Mobil or Shell gas station within 40 miles of her house, she generally fills up at a local high volume gas station.

Nickel is in valve guides I agree, it's a common alloying agent in cast iron. Cast iron is also used in the cylinder liners. Nickel is also an alloying agent for steel, of which there are lots of steel parts inside the engine. Nickel is RARELY used as an aluminum alloying agent. Furthermore you contradicted yourself by saying that nickel isn't found anywhere else in this engine, yet stating that it's in valvetrain and pistons.

Could I use a different oil and perhaps see better wear on a ppm/mi basis, yes, probably. Is there anything I think is cautionary here, no. The biggest single factor that would improve her UOA would be a change in driving style, which I'm not going to ask her to do. As for how long she'll keep the car, that's hard to say. I own her previous Lexus which I purchased at 130,000 miles and it was 11 years old. She doesn't put on miles like she used to, I'd guess that she has this car another 5-7 years in which time it will still have under 100,000 miles. If a Lexus can't go that far on a reasonably good off the shelf oil and 5-6k OCI then she likely won't buy another.
 
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Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: danielLD
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


I don't disagree that there is fuel here, the real practical question is so what, and what do I do about it? There would still be fuel if I changed it fall and spring, likely just as much in the spring sample and next to none in the fall sample. Nickel is also an alloying metal used in everything else steel inside the engine from the cylinder liners to the camshaft and timing components. It's just as likely from there as the valve guides. Furthermore how do you figure that viscosity has slipped out of grade? The measured values look good to me. Your RC-F is wearing better, again so what? My mom doesn't drive your RC-F, she drives this car and at almost 70 it's there to serve her and not the other way around.


So what? Well, do you care about your mom's fuel economy? Fuel dilution chews up engines and fuel economy like you couldn't believe. The question is how long is your mom going to keep this car? as long as it runs or up to 50K and then swap again at the dealer.

1. If you had an even slightly better UOA you could target what's the cause of the FD, that's not more than [censored].

2. Your insolubles are high, this is EGRed fuel residuals and poor filtration on this engine. This thing is getting hammered.
2a. You can start by using a better filter, I assume you're using the OE paper filter?

3. I'd switch to M1EP or AP in a 0W20 with a WIX XP filter. If you have a bit more money, the Amsoil SS is the way to go. The purolator does well too, but XP is the best at combating FD.

4. Get her a big bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel Systems Cleaner. Amsoil and VP racing 's cleaners are another good option.

5. What kind of fuel does your mom use? Can we get her to use Shell or Mobil?

6. This oil shouldn't drop more than 7.8cst at 5,000. 6.98 is WAY out of grade. Any decent lab would have flagged this at 7.6cst.

7. I did lots of work for Lexus, Nickel is a valve guide alloy, it is not found any where else in this engine. When I did work for Lexus 3GT, I got all sorts of info that is not available to the average BITOGer. Nickel is almost always a piston alloy or valve train metal in any engine.

8. Because it shows you on a larger engine with the same driving style but even harder, what proper UOA and selection does. It's merely an example for you to look at and see that there are solutions, unlike everything you've been told by Blackstone that it's all normal, etc.

9. You can't discount this UOA on the premise it serves your mother. Well exactly, it serves your mother so do you want it running like [censored]? These cars have a big difference when they idle rough or idle smooth, all of it adds up. That's not even money on oil and gas. I think you and I would much rather see this car serve her at optimal condition, saving her money and oil changes, than seeing it run rough and her having to do more than she needs to.


If your mother can get 10,000 miles out of an OCI and improve her fuel economy, decrease wear, I think you and I can agree, it would serve her better.

Lastly, you need FTIR and TAN to see some other details. 2 quality UOA's are worth more than a lifetime of Blackstone UOAs.




I already know the cause of her fuel dilution, she short trips the car, in cold (below 20 degree F) weather 6 months out of the year. That's not a mystery here. It routinely gets driven 2-3 miles then shut off. I'm not going to ask her to change her driving habits to suit her car.

Yes insolubles are higher than I'd like to see, but again it's short tripped, a longer OCI with any oil with everything else the same is unlikely to cure this. A different filter may help but we have a case of Lexus filters that will be used. This UOA was not with a Lexus filter. This run was done with a Hastings filter. A wix XP isn't even made for her application and I don't agree with your beliefs that a XP would have any effect on her fuel dilution.

On the oil EP or AFE is a complete waste for a 5-6k OCI IMO, not to mention I still have several years of VSP and Napa Synthetic on the shelf bought on sale or on clearance. Amsoil is completely out of the question. Once all this oil is gone I'll buy whatever's on sale or has a rebate.

The car gets a bottle of Gumout All in One or Chevron FI cleaner every 2 months regardless of mileage.

No Mobil or Shell gas station within 40 miles of her house, she generally fills up at a local high volume gas station.

Nickel is in valve guides I agree, it's a common alloying agent in cast iron. Cast iron is also used in the cylinder liners. Nickel is also an alloying agent for steel, of which there are lots of steel parts inside the engine. Nickel is RARELY used as an aluminum alloying agent. Furthermore you contradicted yourself by saying that nickel isn't found anywhere else in this engine, yet stating that it's in valvetrain and pistons.

Could I use a different oil and perhaps see better wear on a ppm/mi basis, yes, probably. Is there anything I think is cautionary here, no. The biggest single factor that would improve her UOA would be a change in driving style, which I'm not going to ask her to do. As for how long she'll keep the car, that's hard to say. I own her previous Lexus which I purchased at 130,000 miles and it was 11 years old. She doesn't put on miles like she used to, I'd guess that she has this car another 5-7 years in which time it will still have under 100,000 miles. If a Lexus can't go that far on a reasonably good off the shelf oil and 5-6k OCI then she likely won't buy another.


Sorry meant valve guide.

I only have the same driving style in a very similar engine but larger yet exhibit 75% less wear, so while you make think there is nothing to be had, there is proof to the contrary.

There is an XP filter for that engine. In regards to the fuel dilution, it's not beliefs, it's multiple UOAs over and over again showing the same thing. The XP reduces fuel dilution time and time again.

No we don't know the fuel dilution cause in this engine. Is it due to ring seal, poor oil/fuel quality, many factors you can't see without more in-depth UOA.

Use the VP Racing then, it is very aggressive. Far more than Chevrons.

You don't think there is anything to be seen, which is fine, but there is lots that can be done on that car within the same budget and still save more money, lots more. If you can run 10-15K on M1EP, then you're saving money, but more importantly if you save her some MPGs then you saved more money than you did on any oil rebate. Wouldn't you rather run a 15K OCI if you could get better UOAs at 15K than she was at 5K?

This car could make it on supertech oil with 20,000 OCIs. I'll be posting my 12K UOA soon, it may be of interest to you since it's basically the big 5 liter brother to this engine. I have no doubt with Amsoil SS in a 0W20 instead of the 5W30 RLI, I will get 15-20K OCIs. The UR motors are almost all identical.

It would be fun to get your mom to 10K OCI's. What gas station's does she have access to?
 
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I'm interested in any theoretical mechanism for an oil filter reducing fuel dilution.

what's the thoughts on the process ?
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I'm interested in any theoretical mechanism for an oil filter reducing fuel dilution.

what's the thoughts on the process ?


Well the filter media absorbs the fuel, which is why the XP can get loaded rather quickly compared to others, if the car is diluting fuel a lot, which I'll call top tier filters.

The company I work for now, we make glass media filters for military and HD equipment. It's like the XP filters but on steroids, the price is also on steroids lol
But it works very well, I have one of our workers doing 35,000OCI on a 2015 Camaro.

Shannow, I assume you are looking for more technical information?
 
because the filter media is much smaller than cellulose media and each strand is almost perfectly laid out compared to the random mess of fibers that cellulose media creates.

The glass fibers also allow the oil to flow through them with little resistance, so they end up filtering so much more oil and perform better on cold starts or applications with repeated cold starts and prolonged idling.

Think of glass media compared to cellulose media as synthetic oil vs conventional.
 
You're not explaining how glass ( a relatively impermeable) substance removes fuel from the oil. If it was "fine" enough to remove fuel no oil could pass. It's not a semi permeable membrane like a reverse osmosis element. The fact remains that the glass cannot "absorb" fuel anymore than it can absorb dirt, the dirt becomes trapped, how does an impermeable substance trap a liquid? The short answer is it can't.
 


A reference picture of Synthetic vs cellulose media, yes the individual strands are smaller, however the media is hardly perfectly aligned in the Synthetic media as you propose. Still waiting to hear how the impermeable Synthetic media "absorbs" or "filters" fuel out of suspension in the oil.

As I also indicated Wix doesn't make an XP for this application. Here is a screen shot of the vehicle specific application from their website.

 
Car51,

I'm certainly not knowledgeable about all things by any stretch of the imagination and I concede some points presented here in this thread, however some things I have to wave a flag on. OT saw that you cut your Bosch filter, glad that it held up well unlike some of the others seen here recently. I haven't gotten around to posting it yet but the cheap Rock Auto filter that came off Lauren's Lexus looked good after a nearly 6,000 mile run with VSP 20w50. The last one of those cheapie filters from rock went back on with some 5w20 Defy. Will post in another thread when the UOA comes back.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Car51,

I'm certainly not knowledgeable about all things by any stretch of the imagination and I concede some points presented here in this thread, however some things I have to wave a flag on. OT saw that you cut your Bosch filter, glad that it held up well unlike some of the others seen here recently. I haven't gotten around to posting it yet but the cheap Rock Auto filter that came off Lauren's Lexus looked good after a nearly 6,000 mile run with VSP 20w50. The last one of those cheapie filters from rock went back on with some 5w20 Defy. Will post in another thread when the UOA comes back.


Good to hear Luke and as I said you keep it REAL and show us facts and info. Carry on man
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
You're not explaining how glass ( a relatively impermeable) substance removes fuel from the oil. If it was "fine" enough to remove fuel no oil could pass. It's not a semi permeable membrane like a reverse osmosis element. The fact remains that the glass cannot "absorb" fuel anymore than it can absorb dirt, the dirt becomes trapped, how does an impermeable substance trap a liquid? The short answer is it can't.


I asked how technical some of you want to get, I will have stuff for you to read, I don't spend all day on forums.

http://www.wixfilters.com/products.aspx?ct=phof

WIX XE Oil Filters

The WIX XE (extra-efficiency) oil filters are the most efficient and cost-effective filters in severe conditions. They feature microfiber "glass" media in order to filter out more of the small, engine-destroying particles. This special glass media offers less resistance to oil flow, therefore providing better protection on start-ups, especially in cold weather.

http://asp.epubxp.com/i/148057-jul-aug-2013/49?

Page 52-53, this was YEARS ago. We have finally overcome the issues with synthetic media, just like the issues with synthetic oil were overcame.

http://cleanoilpower.com/system/

This is a twist but still uses Glass media to capture fuel residuals.

https://www.hyprofiltration.com/products...p;back=Products

Hypro creates some great military grade filters. Look through their site and educate yourself for once.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Car51,

I'm certainly not knowledgeable about all things by any stretch of the imagination and I concede some points presented here in this thread, however some things I have to wave a flag on. OT saw that you cut your Bosch filter, glad that it held up well unlike some of the others seen here recently. I haven't gotten around to posting it yet but the cheap Rock Auto filter that came off Lauren's Lexus looked good after a nearly 6,000 mile run with VSP 20w50. The last one of those cheapie filters from rock went back on with some 5w20 Defy. Will post in another thread when the UOA comes back.


Good to hear Luke and as I said you keep it REAL and show us facts and info. Carry on man
smile.gif



I'm an actual analyst in real life. Clients I've served. Ford, Toyota, GM, Honda, Ferrari, Lexus, US Navy, Chicago CTA, New York MTA, Portland Metro, O'Hare International, FBI Chicago field maintenance office, Secret Service, United Airlines, American Airlines, Spirit, Taca Airlines. I guess those aren't real right?
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


A reference picture of Synthetic vs cellulose media, yes the individual strands are smaller, however the media is hardly perfectly aligned in the Synthetic media as you propose. Still waiting to hear how the impermeable Synthetic media "absorbs" or "filters" fuel out of suspension in the oil.

As I also indicated Wix doesn't make an XP for this application. Here is a screen shot of the vehicle specific application from their website.


Part Number: 57047XP fits the GS350. I did a huge write up on Club Lexus a while back outlining why Lexus did NOT want synthetic filters to be known on certain models. I along with hundreds of other Lexus owners have been running XP filters on GS's,RC's,LS's that supposedly didn't have XP options.
 
danielLD,

We're done here.

As soon as you decided to say "educate yourself for once" I'm done with you and done with this conversation. You don't know my level of education nor my background. To presume I need to educate myself is both inflammatory and insulting. As far as I'm concerned you haven't posted any meaningful answers to any of the questions I've posed, on any level, technical layman or otherwise.
 
For anyone else still tagging along, none of the reference material provided uses a Synthetic filter media to remove fuel. One reference uses a vacuum chamber system to remove fuel and water from the lubricant. All were either layman trade magazine articles or advertisements.

Hardly what I'd expect as definitive proof from an industry leading analyst.
 
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Originally Posted By: danielLD
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


A reference picture of Synthetic vs cellulose media, yes the individual strands are smaller, however the media is hardly perfectly aligned in the Synthetic media as you propose. Still waiting to hear how the impermeable Synthetic media "absorbs" or "filters" fuel out of suspension in the oil.

As I also indicated Wix doesn't make an XP for this application. Here is a screen shot of the vehicle specific application from their website.


Part Number: 57047XP fits the GS350. I did a huge write up on Club Lexus a while back outlining why Lexus did NOT want synthetic filters to be known on certain models. I along with hundreds of other Lexus owners have been running XP filters on GS's,RC's,LS's that supposedly didn't have XP options.


That filter may fit a GS350 but not hers, did you even pay attention to the screen shot of the filter listing for her car? Her filter is significantly longer than the 57047. The correct filter for her car is 57173, which as I've stated now three times isn't offered in an XP.
 
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