The story of multiple codes on my Mazda today

[mightymousetech]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Wait a minute, if it is an iridium plug why would it be worn out so fast? It doesn't make sense.
Also if it is a bad MAP or dirty MAF sensor it wouldn't be just cyl 4 misfire but all 4 of them. I suspect it is vacuum leak around cyl 4 (i.e. if it is used as EGR port or if PCV hose go into only cyl 4).

Was any of the plug loose? Did you lose any coolant (i.e. bad head gasket -> lose coolant or compression issue)?


Iridium is only the electrode. Does it have a platinum or copper ground? A copper ground iridium plug will wear out much faster than a platinum ground plug.

Look at the amount of exhaust leaking through the plug on the ceramic, those have been in there for a long time.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Iridium is only the electrode. Does it have a platinum or copper ground? A copper ground iridium plug will wear out much faster than a platinum ground plug.

Look at the amount of exhaust leaking through the plug on the ceramic, those have been in there for a long time.


It could also be the plugs have too much anti seize and walked themselves loose.

 

[berniedd]

Look at the ends of the side electrodes. They are abnormally thinner than their bases. That's the main source of the increased gaps.

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
With engine warmed up and running, try spraying carb cleaner around different parts of the engine. In a really bad case you might see it being sucked in, but probably not. What you are really looking for is a change in engine idle. If that happens when you spray a certain spot, you have a vacuum leak there.

+1
Also, the lean code could be telling you that you have a bad injector (plugged/fouled, but not electrically bad because that would throw a different code). This is not an uncommon occurrence after you replace a fuel pump because a piece of garbage may have been released during the replacement and made it's way to the injector.

 

[zzyzzx]

Does that vehicle have a MAF sensor that can be cleaned?

 

[miden851]

I thank you all guys!

Here is an update;

I drive car sporadically, just I had to; When it is cold works fine but the check engine displays the same codes 301’ 171, 2235; what I stop the car while it is warm and start it up again the vibration resumes; it is easier on engine with highway speeds while stop and go traffic it makes it worse;

Like I said before I change the spark plugs and shuffle coil plugs but in vain it seems; yes I change the fuel pump recently, while the tank was clean the bottom of the pump had dark residue; I wish I dissected and examine the pump very next day but I toss it anyway; I also used cheap gasoline lately in my area and I won’t go there anymore. also while I was having issue with the fuel pump on some occasions I crank it up but the engine wouldn’t start for about 2-3 days in row; this may exuburate the problem or not I don’t know;

Also I recently about 9-12 months cleaned body trottle and MAF sensor at the time and I wish I didn’t do it after all; throttle busy may need a clean up but MAF sensor did not; I installed the bottom engine shield at the same time, while fuel efficiency improved I bet the temperature of the engine from the outside increased significantly I bet;

My car may use some of coolant or leak some on one of the high pressure line, like between a rubber hose and metal extension but that has been for a long time now which also could be AC related; anyway I drain coolant like 6 months and it was a crystal clean.

And yes, I’ll be seeing a good local mechanic, kind of like family friend on Saturday morning and I’ll drop off the car; I’m sure he will check the car via computer, and the compression it the cylinder if not the whole engine


So to be continued...

 

[miden851]

I have a few images of the engine bay from the top and the bottom while we’re waiting on a professional help...

 

[miden851]

Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: HangFire
With engine warmed up and running, try spraying carb cleaner around different parts of the engine. In a really bad case you might see it being sucked in, but probably not. What you are really looking for is a change in engine idle. If that happens when you spray a certain spot, you have a vacuum leak there.

+1
Also, the lean code could be telling you that you have a bad injector (plugged/fouled, but not electrically bad because that would throw a different code). This is not an uncommon occurrence after you replace a fuel pump because a piece of garbage may have been released during the replacement and made it's way to the injector.


Yes sir; You were so correct; I got my car back; the fuel injector at cyl 4 was causing the problem which is the first in line from the fuel pump; I cannot believe that it caused the engine to shake severely one day then when its replaced is back to normal

Diagnosis, part and labor $200

That’s the bad guy

 

[Merkava_4]

This has been a real good thread. It started with a problem and ended with a solution.

Good pictures too.

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: miden851
Originally Posted By: wag123
The lean code could be telling you that you have a bad injector (plugged/fouled, but not electrically bad because that would throw a different code). This is not an uncommon occurrence after you replace a fuel pump because a piece of garbage may have been released during the replacement and made it's way to the injector.

Yes sir; You were so correct; I got my car back; the fuel injector at cyl 4 was causing the problem which is the first in line from the fuel pump; I cannot believe that it caused the engine to shake severely one day then when its replaced is back to normal
Diagnosis, part and labor $200

You're welcome!