Maybe try some Motul 300V?
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products?facets%5Bapplication%5D=632&facets%5Brange%5D=21
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products?facets%5Bapplication%5D=632&facets%5Brange%5D=21
I need an oil for a wet clutch, not rotella
- Thread starter SuzukiGoat
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Originally Posted By: brave sir robin
do you only ride your bike in the summertime? because im pretty sure running a straight 40wt in my bike would end up with me needing a new sprag and a spun bearing.
Nope, I ride year round. Although I haven't yet ridden in winter with the SAE 40, my bike is kept in a garage where it doesn't get below 50F so having monograde in the sump won't be a problem. It would be even less of a problem for you in Cali unless you're keeping your bike in a meat locker.
SAE 40 is thinner than a 20W-50 above freezing.
do you only ride your bike in the summertime? because im pretty sure running a straight 40wt in my bike would end up with me needing a new sprag and a spun bearing.
Nope, I ride year round. Although I haven't yet ridden in winter with the SAE 40, my bike is kept in a garage where it doesn't get below 50F so having monograde in the sump won't be a problem. It would be even less of a problem for you in Cali unless you're keeping your bike in a meat locker.
SAE 40 is thinner than a 20W-50 above freezing.
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
This is an easy one.
1. (and I am taking a guess here and please understand, just discussing)
You only mention Rotella turning to water, but your leaving out the fact that you used an oil weight not recommended by Suzuki. Again, I may be wrong but based on your complaint Im guessing you used Rotella 5w40 which is a horrible oil to use in a shared sump bike, people buy it because its a synthetic ignoring the fact its not recommended..
Its also possible you didnt realize that you did use it but 5w40 in any brand shears quickly in your bike and why 5w40 is not listed as an acceptable oil by Suzuki and many other companies.
2. The conventional Rotella CK 15w40 and Valvoline Blue CK/SN 15w40 still contain a healthy additive package, the other 15w40s not so much since the CK 4 standard. Being its conventional 15w40 you will notice good shift quality and about double the mileage of any 5w40 before shifting starts to degrade.
3. Ok, three is a big one, warmer weather riding above 60 degrees,
Conventional 20w50 Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil is the golden goose of shift quality, I think you will find it lasts longer then any oil at a fraction of the cost.
Right here in these forums I posted a few UOAs on my Suzuki (and maybe yamaha) bike, years ago, always terrific reports but for me personally, the shift quality lasted a long time.
The Valvoline 20w50 4 stroke motorcycle oil can still to this day be bought at many (but not all) walmarts for $4.00 a quart, other stores are a dollar or two higher. Also if you wish in the same weight you can buy the synthetic version, I never used the synthetic so can not say the same.
I will say, Valvoline for some reason, is the most underrated oil manufacturer in the USA. I never knew the reason, I think maybe because its a USA company and their products are cost effective, meaning for some reason if people pays 3 times the price for oil they think its better.
)
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
This is an easy one.
1. (and I am taking a guess here and please understand, just discussing)
You only mention Rotella turning to water, but your leaving out the fact that you used an oil weight not recommended by Suzuki. Again, I may be wrong but based on your complaint Im guessing you used Rotella 5w40 which is a horrible oil to use in a shared sump bike, people buy it because its a synthetic ignoring the fact its not recommended..
Its also possible you didnt realize that you did use it but 5w40 in any brand shears quickly in your bike and why 5w40 is not listed as an acceptable oil by Suzuki and many other companies.
2. The conventional Rotella CK 15w40 and Valvoline Blue CK/SN 15w40 still contain a healthy additive package, the other 15w40s not so much since the CK 4 standard. Being its conventional 15w40 you will notice good shift quality and about double the mileage of any 5w40 before shifting starts to degrade.
3. Ok, three is a big one, warmer weather riding above 60 degrees,
Conventional 20w50 Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil is the golden goose of shift quality, I think you will find it lasts longer then any oil at a fraction of the cost.
Right here in these forums I posted a few UOAs on my Suzuki (and maybe yamaha) bike, years ago, always terrific reports but for me personally, the shift quality lasted a long time.
The Valvoline 20w50 4 stroke motorcycle oil can still to this day be bought at many (but not all) walmarts for $4.00 a quart, other stores are a dollar or two higher. Also if you wish in the same weight you can buy the synthetic version, I never used the synthetic so can not say the same.
I will say, Valvoline for some reason, is the most underrated oil manufacturer in the USA. I never knew the reason, I think maybe because its a USA company and their products are cost effective, meaning for some reason if people pays 3 times the price for oil they think its better.
)
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Quote:
Buy a Polaris RAZR grin LOL
While I am typically all about Polaris, there isn't an equivalent bike for what I'm using it for. 4200 miles in less than 6 months. 99% of which was on the street and above 50mph. Belt drives that aren't constant tension get angry in traffic.
We have run both 15w40 rotella and 5w40 rotella in the other bike. Sheers it to water.
Unfortunately a monograde is out. The modded clutches don't tolerate super thick cold oil.
I see people mentioning the mobil1 15w50. I didn't realize that was safe in wet clutch applications.
Mobil1 0w40 is for onroad for me. Valvoline VR1 for offroad.
Buy a Polaris RAZR grin LOL
While I am typically all about Polaris, there isn't an equivalent bike for what I'm using it for. 4200 miles in less than 6 months. 99% of which was on the street and above 50mph. Belt drives that aren't constant tension get angry in traffic.
We have run both 15w40 rotella and 5w40 rotella in the other bike. Sheers it to water.
Unfortunately a monograde is out. The modded clutches don't tolerate super thick cold oil.
I see people mentioning the mobil1 15w50. I didn't realize that was safe in wet clutch applications.
Mobil1 0w40 is for onroad for me. Valvoline VR1 for offroad.
I see people mentioning Mobil 1 15w50. 10-15 years ago, it was well regarded in shared-sump bikes. Today, it doesn't last nearly as well IME, and shifting quickly deteriorates. The HDEO's like Rotella, also quickly quickly shear to the point of notchy shifting. At least in my high RPM and high specific output Sportbikes. For smooth running and flawless shifting throughout the OCI, I like Motul 300V 4T best. Followed by Redline M/C oil.
Originally Posted By: slug_bug
Which Rotella got clunky after 800 miles? I've seen a few posts here indicating T6 5w40 shears very quickly, however, Rotella T 15w-40 holds up much better. My yamaha was shifting fine with 2,300 miles on RotellaT.
I've tried the Rotella 15w40 in three bikes and it shifted like [censored] from the get-go in all of them.
Which Rotella got clunky after 800 miles? I've seen a few posts here indicating T6 5w40 shears very quickly, however, Rotella T 15w-40 holds up much better. My yamaha was shifting fine with 2,300 miles on RotellaT.
I've tried the Rotella 15w40 in three bikes and it shifted like [censored] from the get-go in all of them.
OK, you are in the south. It ain't goinna get that cold. Just run straight SAE 30 HD. No VII's to shear and it will work well for the motor
If the budget will stand it Motul 300V is a good way to go too
If the budget will stand it Motul 300V is a good way to go too
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dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
Any chance you can be more specific here?
Which Rotella product "turns ... to water"?
How are you defining "water" in relation to the sump? Vis? What UOA data do you have for the Rotella you use and the Yamalube?
What metric are you seeking? Shift quality is hard to quantify, although we all know good/poor when we feel it, but it's hard to put bounds on in order to seek a "better" lube.
I've not had great luck with T6 in a shared sump, but the T4 does very well, in regard to shift quality. YMMV.
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
Any chance you can be more specific here?
Which Rotella product "turns ... to water"?
How are you defining "water" in relation to the sump? Vis? What UOA data do you have for the Rotella you use and the Yamalube?
What metric are you seeking? Shift quality is hard to quantify, although we all know good/poor when we feel it, but it's hard to put bounds on in order to seek a "better" lube.
I've not had great luck with T6 in a shared sump, but the T4 does very well, in regard to shift quality. YMMV.
I've have two yxz1000rs. One has seen Estella products. One has seen yamalube only in the trans.
Both bikes have good shift quality with a fresh oil change. Rotella 5w40 gives botch shift quality nearly immediately. Rotella 15w40 and yamalube 15w50 both allow easy clutchless upshifts. Though I use the clutch.
When the oils begin to shear, attempting to slot the shifter into the next year st 10k rpm becomes very notchy.
The unit filled with Rotella does this way before the one filled with 15w50.
Oil analysis of both oils show TBN is great, also show Rotella out of spec. The yamalube ends up as a very thin 10w40 by 1500 miles.
I'm looking for a product that will protect as well, retain the shifting quality for the length of time, but not require me to drop 20 bucks to service the trans.
Both bikes have good shift quality with a fresh oil change. Rotella 5w40 gives botch shift quality nearly immediately. Rotella 15w40 and yamalube 15w50 both allow easy clutchless upshifts. Though I use the clutch.
When the oils begin to shear, attempting to slot the shifter into the next year st 10k rpm becomes very notchy.
The unit filled with Rotella does this way before the one filled with 15w50.
Oil analysis of both oils show TBN is great, also show Rotella out of spec. The yamalube ends up as a very thin 10w40 by 1500 miles.
I'm looking for a product that will protect as well, retain the shifting quality for the length of time, but not require me to drop 20 bucks to service the trans.
FYI - I took my Yamaha generator to have it serviced at my local Yamaha dealer. I found it curious that they only had 50 weight oil on the shelf. When I asked them about it they said Yamaha changed requirements for all vehicles recently???
Anyway, my generator which I always filled with10W-30 in now has 20W-50. I don't use it much anymore so it'll probably be fine. Just doesn't seem right though??
Anyway, my generator which I always filled with10W-30 in now has 20W-50. I don't use it much anymore so it'll probably be fine. Just doesn't seem right though??
The lied to you to get rid of old oil.
No bulletins have been sent out concerning oil since they were having issues with condensation collecting in sumps. and that was MONTHS ago.
No bulletins have been sent out concerning oil since they were having issues with condensation collecting in sumps. and that was MONTHS ago.
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
The lied to you to get rid of old oil.
No bulletins have been sent out concerning oil since they were having issues with condensation collecting in sumps. and that was MONTHS ago.
I'm prettying sure they weren't lying. I'm the one who noticed only 50 weight oils (mostly yamalube) on the shelf both synthetic and conventional. While waiting I inquired with guy at counter and he said something to the effect that is what Yamaha recommends now, but not to worry they have other oils in the back for my generator. Only after I got home did I notice they put 20w-50 in the generator.
The lied to you to get rid of old oil.
No bulletins have been sent out concerning oil since they were having issues with condensation collecting in sumps. and that was MONTHS ago.
I'm prettying sure they weren't lying. I'm the one who noticed only 50 weight oils (mostly yamalube) on the shelf both synthetic and conventional. While waiting I inquired with guy at counter and he said something to the effect that is what Yamaha recommends now, but not to worry they have other oils in the back for my generator. Only after I got home did I notice they put 20w-50 in the generator.
Originally Posted By: brave sir robin
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Yep, no shear with monogrades. I'm currently at 4000 miles on VR1 SAE 40 and my bike still has outstanding shifting. I almost don't even want to change the oil...
do you only ride your bike in the summertime? because im pretty sure running a straight 40wt in my bike would end up with me needing a new sprag and a spun bearing.
What makes you think that? Anyone think SAE XX HD is less able to lubricate than a multi is off on the wrong foot ...
All this talk of shearing is really all about the gears splitting the VVI's and killing the viscosity. VII's are not oil and they only help carry real oil to the surfaces. Once they are sheared, they can't reform ... Straight grades have no VII's. They are all oil. They hold up extremely well in gear cases in tractors and off road equipment. They also work well in motorcycles
As long as you are not trying to kick it to life in a snow bank, there is no reason not to run a good SAE 30 or 40 HD
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Yep, no shear with monogrades. I'm currently at 4000 miles on VR1 SAE 40 and my bike still has outstanding shifting. I almost don't even want to change the oil...
do you only ride your bike in the summertime? because im pretty sure running a straight 40wt in my bike would end up with me needing a new sprag and a spun bearing.
What makes you think that? Anyone think SAE XX HD is less able to lubricate than a multi is off on the wrong foot ...
All this talk of shearing is really all about the gears splitting the VVI's and killing the viscosity. VII's are not oil and they only help carry real oil to the surfaces. Once they are sheared, they can't reform ... Straight grades have no VII's. They are all oil. They hold up extremely well in gear cases in tractors and off road equipment. They also work well in motorcycles
As long as you are not trying to kick it to life in a snow bank, there is no reason not to run a good SAE 30 or 40 HD
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I have a Honda that had notchy shifting and T6 didn't work any better than anything else, but T5 has maintained smooth shifting for > 6000 miles.
Originally Posted By: b_rubenstein
I have a Honda that had notchy shifting and T6 didn't work any better than anything else, but T5 has maintained smooth shifting for > 6000 miles.
I’ve used T5 15w 40 in my Suzuki DL1000 for the last 2 oil changes(4000 mile changes), and shift quality is great. I also use the same T5 in my Honda Rancher ATV, my Honda generator, and my Cub Cadet mower.
I have a Honda that had notchy shifting and T6 didn't work any better than anything else, but T5 has maintained smooth shifting for > 6000 miles.
I’ve used T5 15w 40 in my Suzuki DL1000 for the last 2 oil changes(4000 mile changes), and shift quality is great. I also use the same T5 in my Honda Rancher ATV, my Honda generator, and my Cub Cadet mower.
Castrol Actevo seems to be a great oil for overall performance in my 2016 650 Versys LT. I tried some very expensive motorcycle specific oils, but was not happy with most of them. Shell Ultra 4T was good, but twice the price of the Actevo.
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
This is an easy one.
1. (and I am taking a guess here and please understand, just discussing)
You only mention Rotella turning to water, but your leaving out the fact that you used an oil weight not recommended by Suzuki. Again, I may be wrong but based on your complaint Im guessing you used Rotella 5w40 which is a horrible oil to use in a shared sump bike, people buy it because its a synthetic ignoring the fact its not recommended..
Its also possible you didnt realize that you did use it but 5w40 in any brand shears quickly in your bike and why 5w40 is not listed as an acceptable oil by Suzuki and many other companies.
2. The conventional Rotella CK 15w40 and Valvoline Blue CK/SN 15w40 still contain a healthy additive package, the other 15w40s not so much since the CK 4 standard. Being its conventional 15w40 you will notice good shift quality and about double the mileage of any 5w40 before shifting starts to degrade.
3. Ok, three is a big one, warmer weather riding above 60 degrees,
Conventional 20w50 Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil is the golden goose of shift quality, I think you will find it lasts longer then any oil at a fraction of the cost.
Right here in these forums I posted a few UOAs on my Suzuki (and maybe yamaha) bike, years ago, always terrific reports but for me personally, the shift quality lasted a long time.
The Valvoline 20w50 4 stroke motorcycle oil can still to this day be bought at many (but not all) walmarts for $4.00 a quart, other stores are a dollar or two higher. Also if you wish in the same weight you can buy the synthetic version, I never used the synthetic so can not say the same.
I will say, Valvoline for some reason, is the most underrated oil manufacturer in the USA. I never knew the reason, I think maybe because its a USA company and their products are cost effective, meaning for some reason if people pays 3 times the price for oil they think its better.)
FWIW I've had good service with Valvoline VR1 20W/50 oil in my Harley and NAPA brand oil comes from the same bulk tank as Valvoline.
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
The transmission this is going in turns rotella to water within 800 miles or so and shifting gets clunky.
The yamalube 15w50 synthetic lasts until 1500 miles or so, but it's expensive. Looking for something under 10 bucks a quart. in the 10w40 to 20w50 range.
This is an easy one.
1. (and I am taking a guess here and please understand, just discussing)
You only mention Rotella turning to water, but your leaving out the fact that you used an oil weight not recommended by Suzuki. Again, I may be wrong but based on your complaint Im guessing you used Rotella 5w40 which is a horrible oil to use in a shared sump bike, people buy it because its a synthetic ignoring the fact its not recommended..
Its also possible you didnt realize that you did use it but 5w40 in any brand shears quickly in your bike and why 5w40 is not listed as an acceptable oil by Suzuki and many other companies.
2. The conventional Rotella CK 15w40 and Valvoline Blue CK/SN 15w40 still contain a healthy additive package, the other 15w40s not so much since the CK 4 standard. Being its conventional 15w40 you will notice good shift quality and about double the mileage of any 5w40 before shifting starts to degrade.
3. Ok, three is a big one, warmer weather riding above 60 degrees,
Conventional 20w50 Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil is the golden goose of shift quality, I think you will find it lasts longer then any oil at a fraction of the cost.
Right here in these forums I posted a few UOAs on my Suzuki (and maybe yamaha) bike, years ago, always terrific reports but for me personally, the shift quality lasted a long time.
The Valvoline 20w50 4 stroke motorcycle oil can still to this day be bought at many (but not all) walmarts for $4.00 a quart, other stores are a dollar or two higher. Also if you wish in the same weight you can buy the synthetic version, I never used the synthetic so can not say the same.
I will say, Valvoline for some reason, is the most underrated oil manufacturer in the USA. I never knew the reason, I think maybe because its a USA company and their products are cost effective, meaning for some reason if people pays 3 times the price for oil they think its better.
)FWIW I've had good service with Valvoline VR1 20W/50 oil in my Harley and NAPA brand oil comes from the same bulk tank as Valvoline.
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