do conventional oils really cause sludge and varnish if changed at 3000 or 5000 miles.
thinking of going to conventional on my two Hyundai.
thinking of going to conventional on my two Hyundai.
varnish sluge
- Thread starter ernied
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If oil is changed regularly within the guidelines of the manufacturer and no mechanical problems exist then no the oil should not sludge. Does conventional oil leave deposits, sure, but this is really a non-issue today because oils are so much better than decades ago.
Three exceptions are engines that require synthetic but conventional is used instead, or engines that are known to have issues with sludging, or engines equipped with Turbo's where the oil is continually beaten up by excessive temperatures like at a track or super heavy aggressive driving all the time leading to extended period of times where the Turbo bearings are hot.
Three exceptions are engines that require synthetic but conventional is used instead, or engines that are known to have issues with sludging, or engines equipped with Turbo's where the oil is continually beaten up by excessive temperatures like at a track or super heavy aggressive driving all the time leading to extended period of times where the Turbo bearings are hot.
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Some of this depends on ambient temperature. Some sludge issues have to do with sheet metal covers or side plates, and oil vapor condensation. It has to do with heat and vapor management.
With modern engine covers (cosmetic) and under engine shields (aero), much sludging has been reduced. But, you are in NY, so winters can still cause vapor condensation. So, look for oils with modest to low NOACK numbers
With modern engine covers (cosmetic) and under engine shields (aero), much sludging has been reduced. But, you are in NY, so winters can still cause vapor condensation. So, look for oils with modest to low NOACK numbers
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Case 1 - my TL- owned from new.. its had a synth diet from day 1... no varnish.. lets not mention sludge..please..!!
Case 2 - my MDX - purchased from Acura dealer and ALL OCI [previous owner] done at the dealer, most likely conv oil.. a blend at best.. = its covered in varnish, still trying to get rid of it one year later..
my 2c
J.
Case 2 - my MDX - purchased from Acura dealer and ALL OCI [previous owner] done at the dealer, most likely conv oil.. a blend at best.. = its covered in varnish, still trying to get rid of it one year later..
my 2c
J.
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I don't think conventional oil can go 3000 miles without causing varnish.
I quite like varnish. I think it may protect from corrosion a bit, and in a car engine it isn't much effort to maintain it.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
I quite like varnish. I think it may protect from corrosion a bit, and in a car engine it isn't much effort to maintain it.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
Actually, "sluge" is quite harmless. The key harmful ingredient,"d", is missing.
I quite like varnish. I think it may protect from corrosion a bit, and in a car engine it isn't much effort to maintain it.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
Actually, "sluge" is quite harmless. The key harmful ingredient,"d", is missing.
Originally Posted By: bigj_16
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I quite like varnish. I think it may protect from corrosion a bit, and in a car engine it isn't much effort to maintain it.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
Actually, "sluge" is quite harmless. The key harmful ingredient,"d", is missing.
Word association. Sounds like "slug". They're pretty harmless too, but widely disliked.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I quite like varnish. I think it may protect from corrosion a bit, and in a car engine it isn't much effort to maintain it.
Bright work on a boat is a whole other story.
"Golden brown, texture like sun...."
Don't like the sound of "sluge" much though, whatever it is.
Actually, "sluge" is quite harmless. The key harmful ingredient,"d", is missing.
Word association. Sounds like "slug". They're pretty harmless too, but widely disliked.
Nick1994
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I don't think conventional oil can go 3000 miles without causing varnish.
My Jeep has no varnish, conventional oil it's whole life except for 2 times I used synthetic.
I don't think conventional oil can go 3000 miles without causing varnish.
My Jeep has no varnish, conventional oil it's whole life except for 2 times I used synthetic.
Conventional oil meets the same specifications as Synthetic and has SN rating.
Now you can get into the Dexos but for the average car/ truck Conventional oil changed regularly at 3000-5000 miles will lead to a long life.
It's changing it regularly that's important and 3000-5000 is a safe Interval.
The best Conventional oil in my opinion against sludge and varnish is Castrol GTX. I've seen engines improve looking down the oil fill hole from that oil. Always turns black quick too.
Now you can get into the Dexos but for the average car/ truck Conventional oil changed regularly at 3000-5000 miles will lead to a long life.
It's changing it regularly that's important and 3000-5000 is a safe Interval.
The best Conventional oil in my opinion against sludge and varnish is Castrol GTX. I've seen engines improve looking down the oil fill hole from that oil. Always turns black quick too.
Originally Posted By: ernied
do conventional oils really cause sludge and varnish if changed at 3000 or 5000 miles.
thinking of going to conventional on my two Hyundai.
Varnish is harmless discoloration so nothing to worry about.
Sludge will begin to form if any oil - dino or synthetic - is used for too long of an interval. Using dino for an appropriate distance, you will not get sludge (unless you have one of the sludge prone engines). Do yourself a favor when and if you switch, and get a UOA or two to set your proper interval.
do conventional oils really cause sludge and varnish if changed at 3000 or 5000 miles.
thinking of going to conventional on my two Hyundai.
Varnish is harmless discoloration so nothing to worry about.
Sludge will begin to form if any oil - dino or synthetic - is used for too long of an interval. Using dino for an appropriate distance, you will not get sludge (unless you have one of the sludge prone engines). Do yourself a favor when and if you switch, and get a UOA or two to set your proper interval.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Varnish is harmless discoloration so nothing to worry about.
Sludge will begin to form if any oil
One begets the other...
Yes, I've often thought of varnish as a base coat or primer for sludge in many instances if left alone long enough.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Varnish is harmless discoloration so nothing to worry about.
Sludge will begin to form if any oil
One begets the other...
Yes, I've often thought of varnish as a base coat or primer for sludge in many instances if left alone long enough.
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I'm willing to bet these varnished engines were going extended oci's on either dino or dealer bulk. I've seen varnished engines from extended oci's on synths as well. My Toronado went to a little over 300,000 miles on GTX and looking through the oil fill hole,the upper end was spotless. Always changed every 3K like clockwork. I REALLY miss having a GM 3800.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/998/varnish-formation
I could not find anything saying synthetic oil would help.....
I could not find anything saying synthetic oil would help.....
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I'm willing to bet these varnished engines were going extended oci's on either dino or dealer bulk. I've seen varnished engines from extended oci's on synths as well. My Toronado went to a little over 300,000 miles on GTX and looking through the oil fill hole,the upper end was spotless. Always changed every 3K like clockwork. I REALLY miss having a GM 3800.
it's heat, I highly doubt extended OCI's have any effect.
I'm willing to bet these varnished engines were going extended oci's on either dino or dealer bulk. I've seen varnished engines from extended oci's on synths as well. My Toronado went to a little over 300,000 miles on GTX and looking through the oil fill hole,the upper end was spotless. Always changed every 3K like clockwork. I REALLY miss having a GM 3800.
it's heat, I highly doubt extended OCI's have any effect.
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